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L16 turboed??


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Hey guy im wondering if you can turbo a carbed L16?

Yes.

What would you have to do to it.

To what, the engine? Alot.

Its just a small turbo out of a rx7 t2 and would be set at stock psi.

Stock psi?

Lemme know what you think and feel free to post pics.

I think you need to do your homework and some more research on the subject. Not trying to be harsh, but the project you're looking to undertake is going to require alot of custom fabrication, building a lower compression engine with the suitable internals, and calculating air/fuel to prevent blowing your expensive engine up. Good luck to you :)

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I think you need to do more research on turbos. Use the search function on out site for this. Engine choices may vary but turbo operation is the same. Find out what the difference is between a draw through and a blow through system and what advantages are there to either, what's a BOV, whats an inter cooler, what is detonation, why is spark retard necessary? 

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Ive only put this turbo setup on a stock honda si motor. And even tho it had a shity tuned ecu it ran prity good and for a long time. I took off the turbo before i blew the motor.

I know i have lots to learn about turbo setups on carbed motors. And ive tryed googling it and i dont come up with much.

Im more or less interested in what people have tryed and whats worked for them. I know to run it you would need to do alot for it to saport the turbo set up. And lots to figure out on air/fueling. I know i can lower compresion by puting a thicker head gasket on. But is that enuf? How much can the L16 take? I know it can make rpm's all day when built right.

I know you guys are just steering me in the right direction which is awsome.

I also look forward to you guyses imput.

To smoke..what minmal stuff would i have to do to the motor to make it work on low psi???

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With forced induction, the first thing you hear about is compression and lowering it, which, for the most part is true, the more you drop it down, the more boost you can safely run. Having said that, you can run lowish boost on a stock compression NA engine with a stock cam and stock bottom end with great results. The big secret there is tuning. If it goes lean or your timing is too high under boost, it's going to fall apart like a fat kid riding a big wheel.

 

One of the parts where there is a lot of misunderstanding is running a carb with a turbo. Many decide to run a "draw through" set up and it's just like it sounds, the carb is before the turbo, so it DRAWS fuel and air through the turbo from the carb and forces it into the engine. This is far from an ideal setup, nothing super wrong with it, but if you are going to turbo a carb and want it to have really great road manners, you should go blow through. Of course, the ideal setup is fuel injection, but I don't think that is what you are doing.

 

Now, when you blow air from the turbo into your carb, there are a handful of things to consider. One will be fuel pressure to the carb and here's why. When you are off boost, just idling around or in light cruise, your carb will work just fine at around 3 psi of fuel pressure, but what happens if you put 8 pounds of pressure from the turbo into a fuel bowl that is being fed by 3 pounds of fuel? Right, it will not allow any fuel into the bowl, you will lean out, sputter and cough or burn it down. So, the simple answer would seem to be to just bump up your fuel pressure to 11 pounds. Well, sure, that would work, if your car was always on full boost, but when your not on boost, it will be too much pressure for the carb and it will flood. What you need is the fuel pressure to rise with the boost. This is where a boost sensitive fuel pressure regulator comes in. The more boost you build, the more fuel pressure it builds to match it. So, if you're running 8 pounds of boost, it ups your pressure to around to while you're boosting.

 

Also, you are going to have to have some sort of fuel enrichment when on boost. Yes, you can just run bigger jets, but what that will do is make your car run really fat when it's not boosting. What many guys use is a alcohol injection unit that is triggered by boost. (you can find them about anywhere) some guys build their own out of old windshield wiper fluid reservoirs and it works good. Now, comes the issue of actually forcing air into your carb. To my knowledge, no one makes a turbo hat for your stock carb, so you are going to have to make your own, which is not hard, but I don't know what your fab skills are. Or you can get a side draft weber or Delorto, they do make turbo hats for these. Another way is to build an a box around your stock carb and force air into the box, thus putting the whole carb under pressure.

 

I know this sounds like a lot, but once you get it down, you will see that it's not so complex. Now, if you want to try a draw through, there are still some jetting concerns, but you can skip the box/hat building, you will also lose some off boost power with a draw through as compared to a blow through. A blow through acts a lot like a naturally aspirated engine when off boost, a draw through, not so much.

 

Timing is also a big deal here. If you run as much under boost as you do on an NA engine, it will detonate badly and you will destroy your engine. Lots of guys just lock their distributor at x amount, so it will not advance any further. I myself, am not a huge fan of this.I like the timing to act like it does on an NA engine, until it's up on boost. Then I use a something called "boost retard" you set it to pull away X amount of timing for every 1 pound of boost.

 

All this sounds spendy, but it's really not bad if you're resourceful. Turbo is one thing you can do kinda on the cheap and still do it right. When you measure the power output and the drivabilty of a turbo engine, you can't even compare it to other engine mods. I have even boosted a bone stock, half wore out VW 1600cc single port. I squeezed 148 hp out of that engine at the wheels...and, it lasted years, because it was fueled and timed right. Don't be scared of it at all, Nissan makes a really strong engine. Turbo motors that pop are either ran right on the ragged edge or tuned wrong from the start.

 

I say do this and I would be happy to walk you through ever step of it, like reading turbo maps, selecting the right one, how to route it and everything else. I really enjoy it.

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Thats awsome! Thanks man. Thats the stuff i love to read. The internet doesnt really help me cause i try to find things and never do no matter how i word it. My honda si motor only blew after i took the turbo off when i was driving in calgary and a retard flew infront of me when i was ripin down the hwy and down shifting once didnt do it and stock breaks wernt helpin i had to sacrafice my motor or tranny and drop to 2nd at a already high rpm in 4th :-( it sucked but i slowed down amd stayed out of a acident and my car wasnt hurt besides the badly knockin motor. Im not building a race car but when i do autoX i want a little more pep in my step. My budy is going to help twek my motor to get 100/110hp out of it but thats why i want to know more about turboing the motor. Plus i have the same turbo setup from my honda so im half way their.

 

Now can i use my stock carb or would i need bigger???

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You can absolutely use your stock carb. There are better choices and not just from a power output point of view, but adaptability to pressure standpoint and ease of tuning correctly. Stock cam, stock head, stock manifold and so on, on a low boost engine, those things work great. Your biggest hurdle in the whole deal will be how you manage fuel delivery. For auto x, I would strongly suggest blow through, you want to keep as far away from any lag as you can and if set up right, it will respond pretty much instantly. There is a saying amongst turbo guys "the definition of turbo lag is the split second the other guy thought he won".

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Also, just thought I would throw this out there for you to keep in mind. Your engine right now is like 97 cubic inches (and change) at 14.7 pounds of boost, that same engine becomes almost 195 cubic inches, or 3190ccs. Well actually it acts even a little bigger due to efficiency and some other things, but lets just call it double. I have changed a lot of stuff over to forced induction and it never fails to surprise me when I am done.

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I actually fought a bit with a vtec engine and turbo for a little bit on a friend of mines sandrail. The idea behind vtec (basic idea) is that the camshaft will become larger with more rpm. Smaller duration cam from normal driving and a larger one for when you're really jumping on it. Sort of shooting for the best of both worlds kind of deal. It had been done WAY before vtec on some higher end cars. The thing about a turbo is they are not super wild about some certain large cam profiles. If you get too much cam, specifically, one with a lot over overlap (the time when both intake and exhaust valves hang open at the same time) you can have some of your boost just freight train right past right through the intake and out the exhaust valve. At higher rpm, this is less of a problem than it is at lower.What was happening with this particular engine is that the boost was coming on almost exactly when the vtec started and was making some really odd shit happen. I got around this by changing to a smaller AR on the exhaust side of the turbo. This way, the turbo was already spooled up good when the vtec started working and that took care of it for the most part. But, it did take me a while to figure out just what was happening.

 

As far as Corky's book goes, get it, the guy really knows his stuff. One of my close friends is a close friend of his and I have spent some time talking to Corky. When it comes to turbos, he has tried about every type of setup you can think of, some work, some don't. That and the guy is a huge Datsun fan (no joke) so he can't be all bad. B)  Either way, he explains things in a very easy way to take it all in.

 

You say you already have a turbo, can you get me the AR from it? It should be cast into the exhaust housing.

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Unfortunately, most of what I know came from fucking up a lot of good stuff. A big fireball, followed by "okay, that didn't work". There was really not a ton of available info about turbo charging something way back when. It was sort of hit and miss. One thing you are going to HAVE to own or at lest rent is a good wide band tuner. If you don't want a puddle of metal on your hand where an engine used to be, this is the most valuable tool you will find when it comes to forced induction.

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