My South African 620 rust bucket build!

[Butch_6sic6]

Work this past week was insane at the steel factory..but I got some work done...

 

1 - Removed both fenders (had to grind off bolt heads on the top side because I had no other option)

2 - Removed brake master cylinder

3 - Removed clutch cylinder

4 - Removed complete steering shaft (This was a massive pain as the spline shaft didn't want to budge so I removed along with the arm)

5 - Loosened front cab mountings from chassis (by loosened I mean broke off both!! :rofl: )

6 - Stripped off remaining brake lines in engine compartment..

 

That is it for now.

 

 

 

I am planning to remove the entire cab off of the chassis this weekend to start stripping it to bare metal.

Came across a website this week while looking for different ways to strip off paint, the guy claims to be using heavy duty oven cleaner!!!

Anyone ever tried this? Cheap enough to try myself so I'll check anyways

[Butch_6sic6]

Updates!!!

Removed the bed and cab from the chassis.

Blew off most of the dirt with the air compressor.

Pics!

 

 

Looks like at some point the left hand side had a little "oopsie"

You guys think its OK to heat it up and just bend it back?

 

Cab mount holes are badly worn...

Options?

Weld in new section and re-drill?

Fill hole with welding and shape with pencil grinder?

 

 

Thats it for now....

Starting to look around for a good paint to use on frame.

How many litres you guys think I would need to paint chassis?

 

Thanx for watching

[Butch_6sic6]

Got some things done over the weekend...

 

 

Ready to finish prepping the frame for paint this weekend.

Cant wait to actually see something in paint.

I also took a spray bottle and filled it up with white vinager and sprayed generous ammounts all over and it cleaned off most of the surface rust after laying on it for 12 hours.

 

Still need to remove the leafs from the diff

Clean and paint leafs

Clean and paint diff

 

Cheers for now...

[Butch_6sic6]

Finally got some paint on the frame this weekend!!



2 coats of primer...





2 coats of colour..

Feels good to finally see something not rusted.

[Butch_6sic6]

Got some more stuff in prepped for paint this weekend.

 

 

Only had time for one coat primer, hopefully next weekend second coat will go on along with the silver paint.

 

Got some primer on the over ride leafs as well

 

 

 

Let me know what you guys think

[DanielC]

Looks really good!

in this picture, what is the stuff you are using?

[Greiggy]

if you can handle the cost of freight from Australia To South africa iam happy to cut a RHD cab up for you to get the cowl panel and any other bits you need.

 

PM Me if your interested.

[Butch_6sic6]

Looks really good!

in this picture, what is the stuff you are using?

Thanks Daniel I am trying my best to do everything as good as I can.

That was an old oil container that I washed out and filled with vinigar to loosen all the surface rust on the frame.

[Farmer Joe]

dang!!

 

ive never seen a 620 cab rust in the cowling that bad!

 

the frame turned out really well tho!! 

 

all the best, bud!

[yenpit]

Man, I have never seen a 620 rust out that bad on the upper cowl area!! :crying:  (I did have a 510 that was even worse than that!)  You are one ambitious dude!!  I'd suggest bolting the cab back on to the frame BEFORE you cut out that upper cowl area.......you might need that rigidity to keep it straight!!

 

I'd seriously consider Greiggy's offer, cuz everything over here in the States is of course LHD, and the majority of the cowl & firewall areas would likely be too different to try to fit!

[Butch_6sic6]

Thanks guys, I know there is still a lot of work. I am still 100% sure I can do this, is it going to take a lot of work? Yes, Is it impossible? NO!

I have always wanted one of these trucks and because they are really scarce over here I did not have a lot of options. I am doing this one step at a time, once I have finished the complete rolling chassis I will start with the cab. Still need a good mig welder though.

 

I have PM'd Greiggy. Anyone know where I should start to find out what the shipping costs would be from AUS to RSA?

 

Once again thanks for the advice and opinions. If everything goes as plan this weekend, I am going to finish painting the leafs and diff.

[Butch_6sic6]

Ok, I have one question that I forgot to ask you guys...

 

The leaf pack is held together with 2 metal tabs thats bent around them. I want to remove the leafs and clean them up and paint them. What do guys normally do?

 

Heat up the metal tab and bend it open, and later bend it back?

Cut it off and make a new one?

 

Or am I missing something?

[yenpit]

The first thing you & Greiggy need to do is figure out exactly what you need!  :confused:  I have shipped quite a few large bulky 510/1600 panels, ie floor pans, trunk pan, doors etc etc, but all within the USA.  I'd suggest that you guys discuss cutting the upper bulkhead/firewall in HALF, to keep the box size down, thus the shipping costs down...........possibly way down compared to a whole panel!  You are going to be welding ALOT regardless, and if Greiggy gives you a clean cut at that halfway point, you should be able to weld it back together on the truck.  Whenever possible, I have always cut LARGER than the buyer requests, because YOU will cut & trim it down to suit your needs, and it's always best to have more metal than not enough!  Also, since it sounds like you are only looking for structural panels, that makes life easier on Greiggy, as he can simply secure those panels in a box, not too concerned about dings & dents like you would be on fenders, doors, hoods etc etc.........that makes packaging much easier! 

 

Years ago, I did a full resto on a Mini Cooper, bought a brand new body shell from Austin Rover in the UK, so I had the original rusted out body shell left over.  I made a deal with a Mini buddy, he came and picked up the scrap shell, and a year or so later told me that bits & pieces cut off of my old shell, contributed to 6 or 7 other Mini restorations!  Now that was great to hear!!! :rofl:

 

Wow, hell of a project to cut & ship, but it's because of guys like Greiggy that we can actually make things like this happen!  Good luck!! :thumbup:

[Butch_6sic6]

Thanks for the advice yenpit.... I will stay in touch with Greiggy.

[Butch_6sic6]

Anyone have some advice on the question I asked about the leafs? Otherwise I am just going to cut them off

[mikeanike99]

I would assume to just heat it up bend it and then repeat when putting back together

[Greiggy]

The first thing you & Greiggy need to do is figure out exactly what you need!  :confused:  I have shipped quite a few large bulky 510/1600 panels, ie floor pans, trunk pan, doors etc etc, but all within the USA.  I'd suggest that you guys discuss cutting the upper bulkhead/firewall in HALF, to keep the box size down, thus the shipping costs down...........possibly way down compared to a whole panel!  You are going to be welding ALOT regardless, and if Greiggy gives you a clean cut at that halfway point, you should be able to weld it back together on the truck.  Whenever possible, I have always cut LARGER than the buyer requests, because YOU will cut & trim it down to suit your needs, and it's always best to have more metal than not enough!  Also, since it sounds like you are only looking for structural panels, that makes life easier on Greiggy, as he can simply secure those panels in a box, not too concerned about dings & dents like you would be on fenders, doors, hoods etc etc.........that makes packaging much easier! 

 

Years ago, I did a full resto on a Mini Cooper, bought a brand new body shell from Austin Rover in the UK, so I had the original rusted out body shell left over.  I made a deal with a Mini buddy, he came and picked up the scrap shell, and a year or so later told me that bits & pieces cut off of my old shell, contributed to 6 or 7 other Mini restorations!  Now that was great to hear!!! :rofl:

 

Wow, hell of a project to cut & ship, but it's because of guys like Greiggy that we can actually make things like this happen!  Good luck!! :thumbup:

 

Thanks for the kind words Yenpit... im a datsun guy from long back and bought parts for my build that is almost finished... if i can help out then im happy too!

 

 

Thanks guys, I know there is still a lot of work. I am still 100% sure I can do this, is it going to take a lot of work? Yes, Is it impossible? NO!

I have always wanted one of these trucks and because they are really scarce over here I did not have a lot of options. I am doing this one step at a time, once I have finished the complete rolling chassis I will start with the cab. Still need a good mig welder though.

 

I have PM'd Greiggy. Anyone know where I should start to find out what the shipping costs would be from AUS to RSA?

 

Once again thanks for the advice and opinions. If everything goes as plan this weekend, I am going to finish painting the leafs and diff.

You have a pm shortly ... ive got to measure sizing up etc to get shipping quotes... for reference a complete RHD Dash, Steering column firewall piece, pedal box and pitman arm was approx $1000 to send to the USA last time i sent something overseas.

[Butch_6sic6]

Well it looks like I would not be able to take up Greiggy on his donation, I actually knew in the back of my mind its going to be an expensive way out. I did actually see another 620 standing outside some random house this weekend and will try my luck there (Thanks Greiggy)

 

Unfortunately I got absolutely nothing done to my truck this weekend because of my 3 year old boy having measels...

 

Will get back to the build soon

[Jester]

Hope your son gets to feeling better soon. 

[Butch_6sic6]

Hey there guys, it's been quite a while since I uploaded some progress on here (Busy at work and nursing the little one) but I have some more pics to show you guys of the progress so far.

 

I decided to bend open those tabs on the leafs with a chisel and a hammer (went good)

Cleaned 'em up and painted

 

 

I then cleaned up some more loose misc items and painted them as well.

 

 

And I basically took most of all the moving parts on the chassis and painted them RED. :devil:

 

 

I wanted to do the lower control arms with the dogbones as well but I kinda ran into a problem....

The fullcrum pins are stuck quite badly and I cant get them out to seperate everything... Sorry I forgot to snap a picture of this,Anyone have some advice?

 

Thanks

[Butch_6sic6]

Oh I forgot to ask.... Basically more than half of my tie rod ends rubber boots are torn.... is there someplace that sells these loose?? I hope I dont have to buy a tie rod just for the boots...

[]2eDeYe]

You may have to cut the fulcrum pins out, I used a sawsall and cut between the control arm and the mount in front and back. Then burn or press out the bushing with the cut bolt still in it.

 

You should be able to get universal boots for the tie rod ends at any auto parts store.

[Butch_6sic6]

I did ask one auto store for the rubber boots but the guy just looked at me and shook he's head and said : Sir.... you'll have to buy a tie rod to get the boot...

I'm thinking hes taking chances with me...

 

Is there a thread on here that documented removing the lower control arm from the kingpin dogbone?? I'm not really getting what ]2eDeYe said by cutting it out because the kingpin lock bolt goes into the dogbone (if that makes any sense) and the lock bolt (fulcrum) at the other side (bottom) of the dogbone is the same..

[Butch_6sic6]

For those that dont know what i'm talking about (I think i've been a little too confusing trying to describe it)

 

Images from www.carpartsmanual.com

 

 

Item number 19 = BOLT-LOCK SWIVEL PIN # 40023-25660

 

 

Item number 22 = PIN-COTTER,FULCRUM PIN # 40023-B5000

 

That is the 2 pins I can't get out... don't really understand how to cut them off like ]2eDeYe. said unless he drilled them out...

[DanielC]

I think both of those pins have a taper on them and tightening the nut draws them in tight against the taper, locking the two parts together, without any movement or slop between them.

 

Being steel and exposed to water over the last 40 or so years, there is probably some rust.

 

I have found with the taper pins, hitting them hard, with a big hammer, straight on, most of the time will break them loose.  if you use too small of a hammer, or hit then too lightly, many times, you just swell the end you are trying to eventually get through a hole, and it then will not fit.

 

On some stubborn kingpins, I made a fixture to hold a hydraulic cylinder under the kingpin, and heated the part the kingpin was stuck on with a torch, so the heat would expand the metal, and hole, and then the pressure of the hydraulic ram could move the kingpin.

When heating one part to free up another, I have found a hot oxyacetylene flame from a large rosebud tip works best.  The idea is to heat the "dogbone" up fast, on the outside before the heat has time to soak to the kingpin, and make it expand too.