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Butch_6sic6

My South African 620 rust bucket build!

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Hey everone...

I have been on this forum just over a year and have loved every single moment.

Havent had a reason to start a build thread untill 4 days ago.

 

This is what I ended up buying for a bargain. (also need to invest in a better camera!) :rofl:

 

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Looks alot better actualy on the picture!

Fuel tank was welded to a frame on the back of the bed.

I was also told that the bed came off from a 720

It also had an Isuzu bull bar on

I took a battery with me, started her up and drove her for about 40km after she stalled.

IMG-20140207-WA0001_zps5bb9b55e.jpg

 

It was getting dark real quick and knowing that we still had a 120km trip ahead of us we decided to tow her home.

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After a nerve wrecking trip trying to keep her straight and counter steering each time I step on the brakes we were finally home.

 

Next morning fired the old lady up and took her to our family workshop.

 

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One of the first things that bothered me with the engine was the waterpump was making a really bad noise

 

More pics

 

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Funny service sticker that was on the driver side door post (Check out the date!)

 

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Car model number? N620U??? (Speechless)

 

Well after just staring at her for a while I started working on removing the petrol tank from the bed.

 

With a Hack saw in hand (for obvious reasons) my new chalenge came up!

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This was not a train smash as I did not intend to use the bed at all because it didnt look good at all.

 

After that I removed the following as well

 

Hood

Big ass Isuzu Bull bar

Bumper

Grill

Lights

Radiator

Battery

And finally stripped most of the Wiring

 

My plans for next week is :

 

Remove engine and gearbox

Strip out interior

 

And take it from there...

 

Lemme know what you guys think??

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Would you like your other two threads added to this build thread to prevent duplication of ideas and comments?

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/59994-help-dont-know-what-type-of-620-this-is/

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/59421-possibilities-of-swappingreplacing-loading-bin-of-a-620/

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Yesterday I quickly went back to check if I could find the VIN number on the right hand frame. (Manual says it's suppose to be in that location)

It was kind of a pain trying to find it because of the steering box being in the way.

Is it suppose to be right across from the starter motor?

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nice to see someone from Africa.

born in Johannesburg, lived in Durban until I was 12, about 10 years ago I moved to the US.

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> Car model number? N620U??? (Speechless)

 

We got the P620U here. P=Premium engine, N=Normal engine

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I am gonna work on her this upcoming Saturday and quickly just wanted to ask you guys (especially the right hand drive 620 owners) if the Vin number on the chassis is on the left hand side of the frame like shown in the manual picture?

The reason I ask is because of the steering box being in that location.

Is it numbered on the right hand side for RH drive 620's? I did take a quick peek this week but no luck.

 

More photo's to come....

 

Thanks

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Updates!!!!!

 

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Headliner looks ok!

 

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This was before I started working on her.

 

Then started removing the lil J15

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Alternator came off OK but the one side was broken were the bolt was fastened.

 

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Manifold off!

 

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Starter off!!

 

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Getting there...

 

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DONE!!!! :thumbup:

 

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How she's currently sitting.....

 

Next week exhaust, tranny and hopefully interior.....

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Did your J15 have metall rings that connect intake manifold runner to the head keeping the gasget in place and giving nice smooth equal runner diameter.

I don't see them on the pictures? There are grooves for them in the manifold and in the head.

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Aibast, if I recall correctly all four bolts were fastened with large washers -+25mm diameter and 6 to 8mm thick.

It kinda fastens the intake and exhaust the same time because of the manifolds not having any bolt holes (except the outer holes of the exhaust)....

Was this originally like this?? seems kind of dumb....

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The exhaust and intake are under the same thick and large washers. That is correct. But I have question just about the two intake channels. As I just did a headgasget change on my J15 I discovered that the intake channells have about 10mm long rings in them that sit half into the head and half into the manifold. That keeps the channel diameter constant and sealts it better. + If you but the manifolds to the head again, the gasget is fixed in place by these two rings that keep it from moving around and into a wrong place. 

i didn't see these in the pics, that is why I'm askings.

secimg.157.0045.png

part 14034

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The exhaust and intake are under the same thick and large washers. That is correct. But I have question just about the two intake channels. As I just did a headgasget change on my J15 I discovered that the intake channells have about 10mm long rings in them that sit half into the head and half into the manifold. That keeps the channel diameter constant and sealts it better. + If you but the manifolds to the head again, the gasget is fixed in place by these two rings that keep it from moving around and into a wrong place. 

i didn't see these in the pics, that is why I'm askings.

I will have to follow up on this as I was just stripping everything out to remove the engine.....

I will check this Saturday and post some more close up pics of the head.

BTW.. do you have the same column shift tranny as i have? Reason I ask is I am planning to remove it this Saturday and would like to know where the linkages are located.

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No I have floor shifter directly connected to the manualbox

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The exhaust and intake are under the same thick and large washers. That is correct. But I have question just about the two intake channels. As I just did a headgasget change on my J15 I discovered that the intake channells have about 10mm long rings in them that sit half into the head and half into the manifold. That keeps the channel diameter constant and sealts it better. + If you but the manifolds to the head again, the gasget is fixed in place by these two rings that keep it from moving around and into a wrong place. 

i didn't see these in the pics, that is why I'm askings.

secimg.157.0045.png

part 14034

I checked my intake and I found no rings going in head and manifold....

Mine is probably missing??

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Updates!!!

Got some more work done this weekend...

 

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 Remove transmission.... CHECK!

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Tried to remove fenders but I kept breaking off bolts so I got Irritated and left it for later....

 

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Remove dash.....CHECK!

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Removed riveted plates on cowl that PO installed

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A LOT of work ahead for me

large hole in top part of firewall connecting to the cowl....as well as completely rotten out plate where wiper motor mounts..

Any ideas of how to go with the repair of this area.

Keep in mind I am planning a 100% restoration from the bottom up, so I don't plan to use fiberglass or bondo.

I want to do this right as far as I can.

So has anyone else repaired this area before?? I'm open to suggestions...

 

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Removed the bench seat....

 

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Removed all the carpeting...

Major concerns in the floor areas:

1-Small hole rusted through driver side at feet

2-Cab mounting holes rusted through (Ideas??)

 

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Removed passenger side door card..

 

That is it for now...

 

As you guys can see I have a lot of work ahead of me, but that is part of the game, if you guys can give me some advice I would appreciate it.

I am still looking around for a good used MIG welder.

 

Next up..

Further stripping of steering column

And hopefully remove fenders....

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Get this truck back on the road. No 100% restoration potential. Make it look great, and run beast, and love it while you can. No cure for cancer that's spread as yours has. If you do choose to restore, you will want to find a donor front clip. Weld that on. Then a donor bed. Weld that on. Then a donor cabin, and weld that in. I'd likely look to swap in a fresh frame as well.

 

But I don't think you should stop. This truck looks great, and it is lucky to find someone with steam. I just hate to see some of these rust areas even attempted with perfection in mind. Buy a bunch of POR 15, or chassis saver, or some other stupid expensive paint designed to stop rust, and get it on there. Fit the engine you want. Stylize the bitch and drive the snot out of it. The rust will return, and if you've got two or three years spent welding in new metal, it will cause some homicidal shit.

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That is only for North American versions. Everywhere else in the world it has a different plate for example in Japan it has a Dattosan plate and in SA it has a Rosslyn Suid Afrika plate. And only USA & Canada 620s used L-series engines.

 

620-00-04-1_zpsde4e81dc.jpg

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I'm scraping my truck because of to much rust, but sorry to say it. My trucks cab isn't that bad than is yours. But looks like you still have good doors and fenders. I don't have these things. Good luck on repairs. Let us know how it is going for you.

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COME ON GUYS!!!

ANYTHING is possible

With the right guidance,determination and hard work i can make this work....

If I correctly cut out everything, weld in new sheet metal, prime it good and paint it, it CAN work...

Right??.. :confused:

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COME ON GUYS!!!

ANYTHING is possible

With the right guidance,determination and hard work i can make this work....

If I correctly cut out everything, weld in new sheet metal, prime it good and paint it, it CAN work...

Right??.. :confused:

Only if you have metal to weld to - I don't have that, I realy hope he has

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You can accomplish anything you want to. It is no doubt you have your work cut out for you, if you have the skills and the materials, go for it. I imagine that, like Aibast, your supply of Datsun sheet metal is very limited. 

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