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Shift positions on column shift trans


Will_D

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I'm thinking about fabbing up some sort of mechanism to convert to a floor shift. Since the truck isn't running, I have no idea what the  shift pattern even is. I was wondering if anyone knew what the positions of the arms on the transmission is in each gear. Or if there's any parts from another vehicle that can accomplish this, that would be awesome too.

 

Thanks,

Will

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Why do you not want to use the column shift, is it broken?

If you can find a J13 transmission and adapter plate, that is a floor shift transmission that will bolt in except for the tranny mount itself, you likely will have to make one of them.

It has to be easier than trying to turn a column shift tranny into a floor shift.

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Why do you not want to use the column shift, is it broken?

If you can find a J13 transmission and adapter plate, that is a floor shift transmission that will bolt in except for the tranny mount itself, you likely will have to make one of them.

It has to be easier than trying to turn a column shift tranny into a floor shift.

 

Wayno,

  On the J13 tranny install onto the 320 with E1 engine, I would assume that you use the J13 clutch/pressure plate/ and throwout brg. If so, is the J13 flywheel a direct fit to the E1 crankshaft flange?

 

Pilot bushing compatible or need to be changed?

 

Any other mods needed for the swap besides the crosmember?

 

What about clutch hydraulics? J13-Metric ?? and 320-SAE threads??

 

What about driveshaft length & yoke compatability?

 

Will 1965 floor hump pan clear the J13 tranny and shifter hole line up??

 

This is a possible future project for me.

 

Steve

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I don't know the answers to your questions Steve, I personally would assume that flywheel/clutch cover and disc would all be E1, but if the J13 flywheel and everything bolted to it transferred over, I suspect that would be better.

I have never done this before, I do know that the 65 came with a floor shift, I don't know if the 65 320 transmission looks like the 1966 520 transmission though, I had the 65 everything at one time, but that was before I knew what I had, it all got scrapped after I put an A15dogleg 5spd. in it.

If your going to do this conversion, why not just put the whole J13 drivetrain in it?

Everything else like the clutch system should work, I have seen J15 drivetrains in these trucks, the masters looked the same to me, but a 521 masters will work, I have seen it done.

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Wayno,

 

  The extra cc's and better part availability of the J-series would be a plus, but my engine number matches the cowl tag, so I want to retain & rebuild. The lower end is a bit loose and I've gathered most of the stuff to do the rebuild. Compression is a uniform 130-140 psi with a smidgen of oil. I just don't care much for the column shifter, but I'm not gonna be too hasty. The higher ratio roadster pumpkin swap is probably gonna happen later on though.

  I put a new water pump, thermostat and hoses on couple days ago. Just waiting for the snow to melt and for the temperature to warm a little and me and the little Sport Truck are gonna get a little better acquainted. I'm trying to get my head around all the possibilities in order to make informed decisions and do some preliminary parts scouting in the meantime. A DGV carb is a definite possibility. Thanks.

 

Steve

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Have you drove it before, do you know the weird shift pattern?

I have 390 gears out of a 720, it's a stretch power wise, 70 is floored, and that is about it on level ground, the E1 is just not enough engine.

I have a weber on mine, when I bought it from Mike K. he put the weber on before delivering it to me, when he told me he did it, he said he had wished that he had done that swap years ago.

I do understand about numbers matching stuff, but unless you are going to meets that it makes a difference, well I might get flamed here, I would rather have the power myself, I hardly drive mine, so I leave it alone, but if it was a daily driver, it would have had an A15/5 spd./dual SUs in it a long time ago, and mine is not a numbers matching vehicle.

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Plans for now are not daily driver but a frequent driver. I keep about four cars/trucks in the drive line-up and just kinda switch around depending on the weather and how I feel on any given day. Kinda takes the place of having several girl friends without all the drama. Won't be much highway driving at all so there's not a big hurry on the rear ration change. For longer trips I use one of the wife's modern cars. Also no plans for a knockout show restoration either. Just a fun local one or two days a week local driver.

  i have driven her probably 30-40 miles since acquiring her. I don't have a problem shifting, just prefer the floor shifter, especially in a pickup. If I were to do the shift conversion, all of the column stuff would be crated up and kept with the truck. I'm 65 years old and love these old vehicles. I try not to do anything that's irreversible.

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Well the plan is to clean things up in the engine bay since i'm "minitruckin" it. I'm shortening the steering column and converting over to R&P so there isn't room for all the mess for the column shift. I was thinking of doing this until I get an SR20 swap figured out.

 

Will

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I also would like to know the positions of the arms on the trans for each gear . I just bought an nl320 and cant get the trans to work at all even with the colomn shift linkage removed, cant find neutral anywhere,can only get it in one gear with them hooked up.

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At the moment, I don't know what "R&P" is Will, but I suspect that it will be easier to swap a floor shift transmission in than trying to design a floor shift for this, the problem is that this transmission is a 4 speed on the column, but the transmission only has two levers, so one of them levers has 3 positions.

I have one out back, I will bring it inside and see if I can figure it out, maybe take some photos of where all the gears are.

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The front lever on the side cover is for gear selection alignment, it only does that, nothing else, it has 3 positions, the 3 positions are determined on the column lever in the "neutral" position, towards you is 3rd and 4th, half way down(towards dash) is 1st and 2nd, and if you pull the column lever away from the column(towards the radio) and push away from you(towards dash), that is the reverse position, in this position if you push down(towards floor) that is reverse.
The post that controls gear selection is the front post on the transmission, if you grab that post and move it with your hand you will feel nothing from one end to the other, as all it does is position the gear activator, it's like the neutral position in a floor shift, sideways movement does not put it in gear, it just selects the position so you can move the lever forwards or backwards to put it in gear.
The back post is what actually puts the transmission in gear, it has 3 positions, which is the equivalent of moving the floor shift lever forwards(in a gear), the middle(neutral gear selection position), and backwards(in a gear), it's really no different than a floor shift except for the execution, the sideways motion on the floor shift lever is the front post on the column shift transmission, and the movement forwards and backwards is the back post.
So here are the photos. :)
DSCN2304.JPG

DSCN2305.JPG

DSCN2307.JPG

DSCN2306.JPG


DSCN2308.JPG

 

DSCN2311.JPG

 

This would be the 3rd/4th position in the photo below
DSCN2320.JPG
This is the position to select reverse in the photo below.
DSCN2321.JPG
This is the 1st/2nd position in the photo below
DSCN2322.JPG
I think the this would be first gear in the photo below.
DSCN2325.JPG
This is reverse in the photo below.
DSCN2329.JPG

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Well the plan is to clean things up in the engine bay since i'm "minitruckin" it. I'm shortening the steering column and converting over to R&P so there isn't room for all the mess for the column shift. I was thinking of doing this until I get an SR20 swap figured out.

 

Will

 

I have now pulled one apart enough to sorta understand how it works now, you are not going to be making a floor shift out of that transmission unless you use two separate levers, it's not like a chevy transmission, one post selects the gear, the other post engages the gear selected, I suppose that one could fab up something very complicated that would work, but it would be easier to just convert to a floor shift transmission, but that is my opinion.

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I have now pulled one apart enough to sorta understand how it works now, you are not going to be making a floor shift out of that transmission unless you use two separate levers, it's not like a chevy transmission, one post selects the gear, the other post engages the gear selected, I suppose that one could fab up something very complicated that would work, but it would be easier to just convert to a floor shift transmission, but that is my opinion.

Thanks, You're right. Then, by the time I even get this thing in a condition where I could drive it, I'll probably have the SR put together. So I'm thinking I'll just put my time into that. But I may try it just to do it. :P

 

Thanks,

Will

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Thanks, You're right. Then, by the time I even get this thing in a condition where I could drive it, I'll probably have the SR put together. So I'm thinking I'll just put my time into that. But I may try it just to do it. :P

 

Thanks,

Will

 

I would not waste my time trying to make a floor shift to work on this, just leave it stock, or do the conversion.

You could put the R&P on it and still have the column shift, but converting to the SR just makes me think it's a waste of time and energy to do anything but that.

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