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69 521 Build


earlyvws

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I did these 2 photo shop renderings a while back on what I thought I would want my project to look like, this is not my truck, but the photo was easy to work with.

First is of a truck with a separate box, rockers and a lowered rear skirt.

521pictures.jpg

The second is of a UTE type, which is actually closer to how I went.

521pictures013.jpg

This is my truck, one day this will get finished and look good, but it is a driver.

DSCN2131.JPG

 

DSCN2138.JPG

I need a couple more inches down in the rear, but I think I will use some sand bags for now, the only way to get it any lower is to do a body drop, but I have another project right now.

By the way, this has full suspension travel, it is not sitting on the bump stops.

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ggzilla,

 

I dont't want postive camber, im trying to end up at -1 degree. But I have to build in positive camber now so that I have room to shim to the desired camber later. Right now I am just throwing darts in the dark. I do not know what the full weight of the vehicle will do to camber, so I am trying to make sure that no matter what I have somewhere to go. For example, if I make it zero now and then when the truck is complete and I go to do an alignment and the camber is at say -5 degrees now I cannot bring the wheel out to get to zero because the UCA will be already bolted to the frame with no shims.

 

Here is the d21 alignment info I am going to go with.

IMG_0488.png

 

Right now I am more worried about castor. Wayno brought up a lot of valid points about this most of I was unware of. So I am trying to do as much research on this because I hope to get most of the front end done tonight.

 

Jrock- your trucks fuckin sick. I feel good about dropping this down more after seeing ur cross member. We must think alike. I also contenplated what to do with the rear of the bed, and I decided I like it the way it is. I also couldn't come up with something that made it better.

 

mrbigtanker - i enjoy your input. I know I don't know you well enough to get the joking going on, but I'm guessing you must be the fun guy in the crowd.

Its all good me and Jrock like to live in things up.Your build is awesome and i wish you were closer so you can get my truck done to.I cant wait to see the cab mounted and this thing coming together.

 

Build me a Notchback please.

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The funny thing is I haven't been thinking about my vws since starting this. My blue notch was supposed to be done to debut at the first real show of the season on April 6. That's not happening. My wife doesn't even know I'm building a truck let alone even know I have it. She thinks I'm finishing the bodywork and getting ready to paint her Ghia vert. Been telling her that I'm making it perfect! So now I have to try to do that in an insane amount of time.

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No hooks are staying. I like the clunkiness of old cars. I don't really like things to smoothed out. One of the first things I noticed and feel in love with one these trucks were the door handles. I love how clean and thoughtful they are. So I usually leave all the attributes there. Not really into shaving and smoothing old cars. New cars have all that.

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That one is in the UK. I bought the notch and found out it is OG nutria car I quickly pictured it slammed on cosmics. I bought the rims the paint had the body blasted finished the pan and stumbled on this one on Facebook. I was pissed.

 

My advantage is, is mine is real his is not. Mine is fucking rare and my be the only one ever found. Mine is a 64 N of color Nutria. I can count on 2 hands how many N models I have seen in 20 years and all of them pearl white.

 

His is a 68 or 69. Faking everything. Nutria was an 8 month only type 3 color for 64.

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N was first introduced in 64. 62 & 63 were simply called '1500'. In 64 they were 1500S (deluxe model) had chrome trim slightly different dash pad that flowed with upper door trim nicer interior (by the standards then) and a few other details oh and dual carbs. The 1500N was the standard (basic) model. Didn't have trim etc. it actually looks exactly like a 62/63. Came with single side draft carb. Doesn't have hood springs on the hood and deck lid. Used a prop rod. I guess those pesky spring most of added a lot to the cost.

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So I did some figuring and decided 4 degrees positive might be too much. I tried to shim it to the max recommended thickness of 8mm and it only brought it to 2 degrees positive. Problem is I don't know how weight factors into the equation. So I cut everything out and moved it to 1.5 degrees positive. Of course I don't even know if an angle finder translates to a camber tool. At this point I'm going to cross my fingers and see what happens. If I have to cut into my powder coated frame and fix this, then that's what I will have to do.

 

Here is some of how I finishing this off. Going to add a couple more things to strengthen it up and figure out the shock. The shock is going to have clearance issues, but will start figuring that out next.

 

Also I may have clearance problems with the LCA. The lower the front goes the arm is hitting the rim. Now I have to see what happens with the stock arms. I may have to make a wheel change if nothing works. If I do that is going to delay me further. The 15" rim might be too small for the arms.

 

35B2519C-AF32-46C9-8C18-D911683A84BF.jpg

9937D397-B090-4AA7-9601-A163E9B1F4D2.jpg

7AA75368-B316-4329-9054-EE49CFEDA5C2.jpg

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I keep in mind on the notch. Wife don't know about that one either. That one is basically done minus body and paint.

Here is the pan for it8B8A02A2-C37D-45FB-A043-DE2F63FABE26.jpg

Rims48CC6ED8-00DF-48B2-89A0-ECEE241EC62B.jpg

And some db who copied my car before I built it.89197519-53FB-40F1-AC59-65B4B858B572.jpg

Nice Notchback! Love those COSMIC wheels! I almost bought an og set for my '67 bug but then got all wrapped up in my EMPI GTV clone plan,so I bought a set of 4 lug EMPI sprint stars instead. My favorite type 3 is the ghia ( type 34 ). I've wanted one since the first time I saw one. Almost got one once,but couldn't quite come up with the $. Someday....

a>

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not a big razor fan,

I like them,because they're different than what most of the air-cooled vw crowd is doing. Plus there's still some handling potential,kinda like driving a real old school sports car. Niether of the type 1 ghia's I had quite had that. The '67 "GTV" bug on the otherhand drove like a go-cart,except for with the engine I had in it it was sqirrely as hell! Lots of fun,but a bit scary !

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Thanks for the advice jrock. I was careful when doing the welding. I took some measurements off the other frame and compared to this one after welding and I am 1/16" off on right side and 1/8" off on left. So the right side could be chalked up to measuring error/ frame differences/ or deflection. Left side probably deflection. I think it will be within reason, going to try to mock up the cab and bed on all four wheels tomorrow night if I don't run out of time.

 

I'm with you on the roll pan. I'm not 100% sold on it, but it was more of a necessity for now. I don't have a good set of tail lights and I didn't want to have to fab something up after I painted the bed so I did it now and made it so I could put stock lights back later if I find a really nice set. For now I'm just gonna see it through. I'm actually starting to regret adding the side rockers. Starting to embrace the unfinished look of the truck. But that is all just beginners mistakes!

 

So for tonight I got the rear leaf spring mount located into the frame rail. Doing it how jrock suggested and only the rear. If I were to do this again I would just cut the frame rails off after and make new ones. The amount of time and the scary removal was not worth the trouble.

 

So here is how I did it.

image-25.jpg

image-26.jpg

image-27.jpg

 

Ran out of time to put in the other support bar and need to finish welding the mounts. So if I can get that all done tomorrow I hope to fit everything and confirm the frame is ok. Then it's back to the front to finish that all up.

I like how you spent the time to do this. GReat way to align the perches side to side. Extra fab time but give a real nice accurate alignment.

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