maybe my timing is a tooth off?

[banzai510(hainz)]

I think you need a different car.

 

Why you change all the electrical? We are here to help so you dont waist your time.

Your electrical is fine. Lights dim cause you have a 35amp alternator. this is common with lights on and if everything else on is even worse at idle.

I would adjust the mixture and adjust the speed screw on the carb and do a retime using a timming light.

 

maybe also shoot a shit load of carb cleaner in there.

 

then retry again all the above.

 

ck the carb and intake bolts for snugness.

[EastBay521]

the truck is my daily driver and was fine until this shit happened. I thought maybe the carb my have got some shit in it so I got on it to maybe free it up. carb only has about 7kmilles on it. I checked the timing it hasn't moved and I played with the speed screw bolts are tight. but ill keep trying. when it was running fine I could have all the lights on and it would idle just fine

[EastBay521]

and my lights seem brighter with new voltage regulator don't think that has anything todo with it just though I might throw that out there

[banzai510(hainz)]

every volt reg might be slightly differnt when they come from the factory . Espcially the old mechanical ones.But really it just cuts the unregulated AC from the alternator at say 14.1 volts. But I have seen 13.8 also

 

would buy NEW molded end battery cables.

Maybe clean the fuse contact ends and have new correct fuses.

 

ask here first before just pulling shit out to trouble shoot.

 

sometimes as a alternator wears. it might get weaker as you load it down. One way to ck is have a volt meter so youll learn where your at as your running your accessories.

had had thishttp://www.equus.com/Product/3721/Battery-Monitor

but there are other version out there that can plug in the cig lighter that doesnt drain the battery. Walmart has a Everstart brand one you can modify to work. This will be better than waiting for the Idiot light to come on as it will be to late by then.Like driving on the battery till it dies then the light comes ON.

This works and I can believe why not more entry level Ratsun owners dont have soemthing like this. as itw simple to install.

[laotsu]

have you scrubbed the fuseblock? does wonders for 521 electrical gremlins

[EastBay521]

no I have not really tried to clean the connections on the fuse box. all I did was put new fuses when I got it

[KlassicMotion]

Not sure it will help, but doesn't usually hurt, try cleaning all your connections (especially the grounds), but also the voltage reg, and other relays:  http://community.ratsun.net/topic/58498-how-to-repair-your-relays/

[EastBay521]

so I got it figured out.it was the stupid adapter plates weber send you with a new carb. the screw came loose, second time its happened but the first time it was acting different. they weren't super loose at first but the more I fucked with the carb the looser they got. runs fine now

[ggzilla]

Use thread locker

[datzenmike]

Everyone suggests LockTite on them. Don't over tighten or then they crack and leak vacuum.

[EastBay521]

yea i did use alittle locktite. really stupid design i dont see what was wrong with the old adapter plate.

[ggzilla]

The two-piece adapter increases Weber's profits by making the engine-specific bottom piece smaller and more cost efficient.

[KlassicMotion]

In addition to Lock-Tite, I took my honing stone to all sides of those plates.  Mine were badly warped out of the box.  Plus, those gaskets Weber sends with the kit, always seep fuel.  I made new gaskets out of traditional fuel safe gasket material.  No issues. 

[EastBay521]

the seeping fuel was how I figured it was the screws coming loose.