maybe my timing is a tooth off?

[banzai510(hainz)]

and the timing plate still has room to move over but the vaccum advance it hitting the the neck coming off of the thermostat housing wich is preventing the distributor to move anymore

 

 

 

you can always mount the dizzy pedalstal 180 on the front cover then swap the spark plug wires 180 deg so you get the vac adv to move and not hit the water outlet

[Draker]

 

Lift the dizzy out and look in the hole with a fleshlight.

 

 

:confused:

[EastBay521]

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

to me the spindal is off slightly. make sure it at zero on crank.

 

if you took a screw driver the spindal line will line up to the right side of the top hole and to the left of the bottome hole as posted in Daztenmikes photos look close.

[KlassicMotion]

Just throwing this out there in the mix;  when you say you swapped all the parts over to the other block, did you check the deck surface of the block and head?  Have you checked for a leaking head gasket?

[datzenmike]

so the V notch on my timing gear is at the same position as the example mike posted above except I have my gear set at the #3 mark and the timing plate still has room to move over but the vaccum advance it hitting the the neck coming off of the thermostat housing wich is preventing the distributor to move anymore

 

The picture is the cam timing and is totally separate and unaffected by the ignition timing. In no way are they interconnected. If your V notch is like the picture you can assume it is properly set and move on to something else.

 

If the vacuum advance is hitting the thermostat then this is something totally unrelated.... but fixable.

[EastBay521]

Just throwing this out there in the mix;  when you say you swapped all the parts over to the other block, did you check the deck surface of the block and head?  Have you checked for a leaking head gasket?

I did not get the block checked I didn't have enough money when I started it but I did get the head looked at because the head gasket started leaking on my L16 so I wanted to make sure it wasn't warped I did look around the block I didn't see or feel that anything was wet

[KlassicMotion]

Have you looked for oil in the water, or water in the oil?

 

I just like to check everything off the list of possibilities...

[EastBay521]

yes I did check both neither had anything mixed. but then  again when the head gasket went out on my L16 I didn't have water or oil mixed either but my cylinder 4 was filled with water. but I did a compression test theyre all good

[EastBay521]

to me the spindal is off slightly. make sure it at zero on crank.

 

if you took a screw driver the spindal line will line up to the right side of the top hole and to the left of the bottome hole as posted in Daztenmikes photos look close.

so I repositioned the spindle and it ran like shit so I put it back how I had it and set the distributor to 0degrees and it got me up to 75mph this time instead of 70 but then the same shit happens. this is beginning to become very discouraging

[banzai510(hainz)]

This is a simple fix. Believe me. Your just not catching it, best if you had spare parts to swap out but dont know what you have.

 

I would make sure when the crank is at zero the rotor is right on a plug wire when you have the dizzy cap lifted. then you know its center. Why I say this is soemtime when people get a matchbox they need to yank the matching pedasatwith it. There where 2 types of matchboxes matching dizzy mounts sometimes they get swapped those throwing the rotoe off like 15degs or so(ok I made tha degress up) But you can tell if the mount is wrong. when set crank to Zero the rotor  will be  in between number 1 and 3 sparkplug wire on the dizzy cap.  If its at Number 1 then your OK.

You know you can adv or retard the timming plat to get more center position by loosen the timming plate from the back side of the dizzy. I think I show this in the vid.

 

Was this set up on last motor and was fine?

Fuel filter clean?

Try another dizzy set up. Maybe loose bushing. I had one at Top end would cut out.

Carb 2nd barrel OK

If a matchbox you using a EI coil and NOT using the ballast resisitor.

 

alternator out put good?

[datzenmike]

...and it got me up to 75mph this time instead of 70 but then the same shit happens. this is beginning to become very discouraging

 

 

.

Fuel filter clean?

.

.

 

For $3 you can eliminate the possibility of running out of fuel at 75 MPH. Old filter may not pass enough fuel to go faster???

[EastBay521]

yes this set up was on the previous motor and ran beautiful. starting to wish i had just replaced the head gasket on the 16. but I do have an extra el dizzy I will see if it helps

[EastBay521]

its a new fuel filter

[datzenmike]

L18 carb or the old L16? May be not rich enough at WOT? Didn't you say it starts to run hot??? Could be running lean at high speed.

[EastBay521]

its a weber 38dges.   will play with it once I swap dizzys, just dug out the extra one I had

[EastBay521]

nevermind I will play with the carb first..

[EastBay521]

So I played with carb swapped dizzys still same shit. But no Im starting to wonder if im loosing compression im noticing at the top of the timing cover and on the side of the block  above the alternator its wet its feels like coolant but I couldn't feel towards the bottom where its really wet because its so damn hot but I did a compression test all cyliners are at about 130psi except for cylinder#1 wich is at more like 125psi. even though its not a huge difference could it still effect the top speed as much as it is?

[datzenmike]

below 140 is getting border line for a rebuild. But if running well and not burning oil I'd leave alone.

 

You say you rebuilt this but you should have better compression than this. Did you measure the cylinder for wear? taper and oval? If too worn an overbore to a larger size with proper fitting new pistons is warranted. For a quick hone and ring job, cheap and much softer cast iron rings should be used as they wear in and seal uneven cylinder walls better than the hard chrome ones.

[EastBay521]

I didn't measure anything on the block or send it out to get it checked like my dad told me numerous time todo. All I did was clean it up hone it and put it back together I did notice cylinder#3 was a little uneven but I was kinda hoping the rings would wear in to it

[datzenmike]

Yes, ever the optimist. Often you can get away with this but the wear is usually concentrated right at the top of the cylinder where the ring stops. The hone won't even touch this. 

[EastBay521]

Well it looks like I learned some shit.. Time to fork out some more cash

[datzenmike]

I had my Z22 block bored 1mm, so two passes at least, honed and the block tanked for $20 a cylinder... which looking back seems kind of cheap now. 

 

If you bore you have to buy new oversize pistons anyway.... what about L18 pistons then? Bore from 83 out to 85mm. Stock L18 pistons and rings makes this a 1671cc motor basically an  L17. It would be a brand new motor capable of hundreds of thousands of miles if looked after. 

 

Did you replace the rod and main bearings?

[EastBay521]

yes I did replace the bearings when I went to go pick up my head from the machine shop they said it would only be $100 to bore the block .020 over. if thats the case and im going to need to buy new pistons they would be flat top Z20E pistons that would be mated to the L16 connecting rods wich was my original plan and was saving up the money but then the head gasket went out on the L16 and didn't want to have my truck sitting so I put everything together. you live and you learn I guess.

[datzenmike]

85mm Z20E flattops on 133mm L16  rods and an L18 crank stroke of 78mm will bring the piston top about 4.1mm below the top of the cylinder. This space above the piston and below the top of the bock amounts to over 23cc of added combustion chamber. This is a huge amount. With a closed chamber head the compression will be only 7.22. With a smaller L16 head... 7.5.