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damn brakes wont bleed. MC broke in process.. Which to get?


GORILLARILLA21`

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Ok.. I've been having a god awful time with my Datsun lately.. Painted the bay before doing brakes.. Let's just say don't do that no matter how careful you try to be.. You will spill brake fluid on it...

OK. I went out to gravity bleed them.. No luck. Okay fine I decided to step it up and go to the store and buy a bleeder kit.. Still nothing. Tried the front after no luck with the rear; nothing. Now I'm just getting frustrated. Decided the heck with it, i'll bleed the master to see if that even works. I start with the rear, boom! success, got it coming into my canister quick.Try to tighten it back down.... SNAP! damn bleeder nipple broke off in the cylinder... At least I paid next to nothing for it. I tried the rear from the master, and started to get some, then it stopped completely. It seemed like it may have been going back in even though the gauge said I still had a vacuum (Had to keep pressing the trigger to keep the vacuum up).. I was using a 280zx master cylinder with 81 maxima front brakes and wilwood rear disc brakes on 200sx rotors.Should I switch my MC? or Buy another 280zx? Also I'm wondering if the front didnt bleed because when I connected the push rod that connects the MC to the brake pedal, I used the 510 adapter and both washers, the 280zx and the 510 one (the 510 washer is smaller since the 280zx MC is a 15/16 cylinder, but too small for 280zx MC clip to hold it in... Could it have been making the MC stay slightly opened?) Please help me before I go more CRAZY :confused: :confused: :poke:

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The bleeder takes very little torque to close. It's easy to snap them off.

 

If you can get the bleeder stub out, then all you need is a new bleeder. If you can't get it out, buy a new Master Cylinder.

 

You'll have problems if the pushrod is not adjusted right. So make sure that is correct (along with all the other mechanical bits) before bleeding the hydraulic system.

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