Another 620 for Jester

[Jester]

225-50-15

[]2eDeYe]

Love the blazer ralleys on there. 

[Jester]

I really like the 8" wide on the back. Just not a big fan on the front. I found a 7" wide rally that is the same backspace. I am going to try and find one more and swap out the front two. Maybe even drop down to a 195 on the fronts as well. We'll see. This truck MAY get tore apart this winter for the VG. :rolleyes:  :rolleyes:

[Jester]

I ended up having to roll the rears out for the Shasta trip. Just too close. 

 

[sebpv]

Do you know what offset they are? I have 8in +2. I havent fitted them but I read its not an issue with my offset...

 

I know bla bla...fit the rims to the truck not the oppositel ;)

[Jester]

Here is a basic offset chart.I'll have to measure them again when I pull them to roll my front fenders. I want to say 3 3/4"

 

[sebpv]

so my wheels should in theory stick out less by 3/4 on an inch. So no pulling required. But That could change since I put 4in blocks in the back... And did you actually measure 3in drop after you de-arched the leaves?

[Jester]

OK, I went out and my measured my extra wheel. Laying a 2' level across the wheel and measuring to the mounting surface is 4". It is 3-3/4" from the inner lip.

[sebpv]

that translates into a -19 offset according to the sheet. I should check mine since they're not mounted yet.

 

And thx for the info!

[Jester]

I haven't done much other than drive this thing every damn day. I love this truck. I was forced to put a new starter on a couple weeks ago.

I also put in some new NGK wires, Standard Ign. cap and rotor and a fresh set of NGK BP6ES. No resistor plugs! 

I ran these plugs for about 1000 miles and pulled them just to see how they looked. Color is a little whiter than I would like to see and no signs of heat range rings.

So, tonight I put in another set of plugs, BP5ES this time. 

Main throttle shaft has some play so I am having a difficult time getting the carb to be concistant. I need to order some jets and do some playing. That or just say fuck it and drive it the way it is and concentrate on getting more important stuff done. 

 

I also picked up an old Vandercook printing table base that I turned into a fab table. Dug my front frame section out of the back yard and and cut the motor mounts off. Trying to concentrate on suspension before I worry about the VG. I WILL NOT have torsion bars on this truck with a VG. After helping Yello620 on his, I want them gone. The plan is to raise the upper and lower arms 2" (this should get me to a 4" ride hight) and extend them both 1 3/8" to keep my wheels roughly where they are now. I plan to switch to either a 17 or 18" wheel with about a +32mm offset. I wanted 16's but they just don't seem to be making many16's anymore. 

 

Only having half a frame is proving difficult to get accurate measurements and determining a "level" starting point. Wishing now that I would have kept it in one peice and just assembled my running gear then swapped my body on. 

[Lockleaf]

Not sure, but I think you are running a Weber carb? If so, there are bearings that can be installed on the main throttle shaft. They will eliminate vacuum leaks at the shaft and fix the wobble. Pegasus racing sells a set of them.

[Jester]

Thank you. 

[Lockleaf]

Https://youtu.be/abi40OrA8uY

 

Install vid

 

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=5949

 

This is the set I bought and installed on my Weber 32/36

[Jester]

I wondered how the hell you could possibly install these without enlarginig the holes. Now I see. 

Thanks for the links.

[S30Jay]

Great looking truck! I like the rallyes....I think the 8" s work up front too. I'm sure the 7s will too. How's it ride like that? I'll bet it handles pretty good.

[Jester]

It handles OK. The frontend needs rebuild BAD! Rather than rebuild the factory suspension I am in the process of figuring out how to build a true A arm setup on the top and bottom. I want to eliminate the TC rods, drop 2 inches of ride higth and lengthen the arms. I want to keep the wheel/tire where they are currently at but get the scub radius back where it  needs to be. 

 

Here's my new table. A little small, but, appropriate for the siz of my garage.  :D

 

[S30Jay]

Decent looking table, It'll do the job. Are you planning on running coil springs or coilovers...or keeping the torsion bars. Years ago I had a 1992 Toyota 2wd pickup and if I remember right it had upper and lower c.arms. It held up well too, wonder if you could adapt something like that? Of course that had t. Bars I believe as well

[]2eDeYe]

I have some ideas for a rack and pinion, need to do some digging

To directly replace the centerlink would need a rack approx 20" overall length with about 4" of travel.  

[Jester]

Decent looking table, It'll do the job. Are you planning on running coil springs or coilovers...or keeping the torsion bars. Years ago I had a 1992 Toyota 2wd pickup and if I remember right it had upper and lower c.arms. It held up well too, wonder if you could adapt something like that? Of course that had t. Bars I believe as well

 

I will be using coilovers. Looking for some that are MAX 4" travel. From ride hight it will have 1-1 1/2" of availavle down travel and 2" upward. And I'm not looking to run the Toyota arms, just the spindles.

 

 

I have some ideas for a rack and pinion, need to do some digging

 

To directly replace the centerlink would need a rack approx 20" overall length with about 4" of travel.  

 

Lower control arm pivots will be @ 16 1/4" if I leave them in their stock side to side location. IF I move them outward, which I could, they will be 18 1/2". I need the ball joints in the rack to be wherever my pivots are. Tryig to keep as much bump steer out as possible.

 

Does your idea HAVE to be 20"? What are you thinking? 

 

I appreciate the feedback guys. It's nice to bounce ideas off you guys and hear your thoughts. 

[Jester]

Oh ya, went to look at a '81 KC 720 4x4 today. Belongs to my uncle :wub:  and he is GIVING it to me.  :frantics:

I may have a new daily while I officially build my 620! She is ruff and muddy, thanks cuz, and a little beat up. BUT, no rust. And it needs a new engine. Divorced T-case.......soooooo how about a L20B/4spd 4x4?   :rolleyes:

[Rhino13]

Pics!! I'll have to come up and see it!

[Jester]

Putting some pics up on Photobucket right now. I'll post them in a few.

[Jester]

Low mileage, 3 previous owners all of which I know personally. Including the guy who bought it brand new. 

 

 

 

 

 

Needs a fender and bath for starters.

 

[Lockleaf]

Sweet. 720s are my favorites. I currently have 3 (well 2.5) here at my house.

[Jester]

I may start some kind of build thread, of sort, when I get it home. I told my uncle I would pick up a new R F axle, fix it, and drive it home. Probably hit the car wash in Newberg on my way home. Maybe stop @ Yello620's on the way home to show off my new truck.  :fu: I'd say we could go wheel it before I go wash it but I don't know how long the Z22 is going to hold on. He seys it smokes like a banshee. Got an extra Z engine? 

 

Spent some time in the garage tonight thinking and playing with measuring devises. 

  Started off leveling the table. Then I used my square to find the center of the holes.

 

 

Once I had both sides I could properly determine the center and start tranfering it up.

 

 

I took this picture for reference. I'm putting it hear more for me than you. It measured out to 4 1/8" with blade flat on table.

 

 

 

In the end the pivot will be two inches up. I haven't made a final decision on pivot width center to center yet. Still looking at racks.

 

Came out to 2 15/16"