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Found the full album for my '32 Datsun- I don't use Fotki anymore, as they randomly shuffled all my albums more than once, that's why the pics are out of order. But if you want to see how the '32 I posted earlier looked "when it was a baby", here ya go- http://public.fotki.com/ChuckMost/rat-alley/1932-datsun-rod/

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Revell just reissued the BRE version earlier this year- you should be able to find it at any well-stocked hobby shop (or online) for somewhere around 25 bucks. 

Your correct I just picked one up at jccs a few weeks ago and im building it, but I'm not happy with the fitment of some parts body and chassis don't sit flush together and my firewall has gaps becasue of it. Only issues Iv'e ran into so far putting it together but I'm sure there will be more I'll upload some pics when I get home from work...

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Yeah- that kit came out at a time when Revell wasn't really bringing their A-game (ie- the '70's). I think if one of the Japanese kit manufacturers like Aoshima or Fujimi came out with a new-tool 510 it would be a hot seller.

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Forgot  all about this one...

Aoshima Infiniti Q45. I haven't touched this one in almost two years... let's just say the more I looked at that wheel/tire combo, the less I liked what I was seeing...

 

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Looks like a caprice lol, question to you long time model guys. Do you apply paint after you've put your model together or while it's still in pieces un-cut? I see a bunch of cars rolling but not painted, is that to mock up and make sure there's no fitment issues?

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Looks like a caprice lol, question to you long time model guys. Do you apply paint after you've put your model together or while it's still in pieces un-cut? I see a bunch of cars rolling but not painted, is that to mock up and make sure there's no fitment issues?

I know- it does look like a Caprice... pretty close in size, too.

 

It's always best to paint everything before assembly. Some stuff, like engine block halves, suspension parts, etc.. are best handled by being assembled first, then painted as a unit. The Infiniti is just in a mockup stage- checking for ride height in this case.

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I know- it does look like a Caprice... pretty close in size, too.

 

It's always best to paint everything before assembly. Some stuff, like engine block halves, suspension parts, etc.. are best handled by being assembled first, then painted as a unit. The Infiniti is just in a mockup stage- checking for ride height in this case.

O ok cool I'll do some mock up on the next build, any tips or tricks to adjusting ride height?

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O ok cool I'll do some mock up on the next build, any tips or tricks to adjusting ride height?

 

Depends on how the suspension is set up- I'll see if I can dig out a few tutorial pics later.

I have a BRE 510 model somewhere in the garage that was purchased some time in the early 1990s. I really want to build one but I'd rather it not be an older one. If I did use that one it'd save me $25 that could be used for paint... the most expensive piece of the puzzle.

If you've already got one in the stash, that might be the way to go. The earlier versions were going for decent money online, but now that it's been reissued the prices on those have probably dipped quite a bit. Other than the tires I thin the current reissue is the same as the '90's reissue.

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I have a BRE 510 model somewhere in the garage that was purchased some time in the early 1990s. I really want to build one but I'd rather it not be an older one. If I did use that one it'd save me $25 that could be used for paint... the most expensive piece of the puzzle.

 

Depends on how the suspension is set up- I'll see if I can dig out a few tutorial pics later.

If you've already got one in the stash, that might be the way to go. The earlier versions were going for decent money online, but now that it's been reissued the prices on those have probably dipped quite a bit. Other than the tires I thin the current reissue is the same as the '90's reissue.

Yea what he said shacks you might as well build it, if it was an original I'd hold on to it but it's probably the same as mine. Only thing different is the pic on the top of the box... Iv'e looked at a few videos of people adjusting height,rake, and camber. I read up on a 510 build that it was done to but he didn't explain how it was done, I also want to have a different exhaust any tips on that?

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I'll dig out my 510 tonight. If I get a better look at it I might be able to be a bit more helpful as far as how to lower it. Basically you can do it the same (theoretical) ways you'd do it to a full scale car, but since model kits differ so much in terms of how the parts are broken down, every such project is a little different.

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I'll dig out my 510 tonight. If I get a better look at it I might be able to be a bit more helpful as far as how to lower it. Basically you can do it the same (theoretical) ways you'd do it to a full scale car, but since model kits differ so much in terms of how the parts are broken down, every such project is a little different.

Thanks I'd appreciate it, I'm going to get some more work done on mine today. Didn't have a chance yesterday, once I get engine bay/motor assembly done it should be smooth sailing ^_^

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OH- as far as exhausts go- you can use the kit supplied piece as a starting point, or use some solid-core solder on a roll. You could also use plastic or aluminum rod- I like using solder because it bends easily- you can do it by hand- and holds its shape. For the tips you can slip some hollow tubing over the ends. A lot of the Revell kits introduced over the last ten years or so come with turned metal exhaust tips- if you have some spares laying around those could be used too.

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OH- as far as exhausts go- you can use the kit supplied piece as a starting point, or use some solid-core solder on a roll. You could also use plastic or aluminum rod- I like using solder because it bends easily- you can do it by hand- and holds its shape. For the tips you can slip some hollow tubing over the ends. A lot of the Revell kits introduced over the last ten years or so come with turned metal exhaust tips- if you have some spares laying around those could be used too.

Sweet, I'm thinking of a side exhaust in front or behind the rear tire or it sticking out and slightly above rear bumper. No extra pieces with the kit just all the plastic all the parts were held in. I'll look into using a flexible metal maybe.

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It looks like lowering the front would be fairly straight forward. Since it's a 1:25 scale model, a good rule of thumb is 1mm=1 inch. That's not exact, but unless you are building a double-decker bus it's close. That being said, if you wanted to lower it three scale inches (for example), I'd cut 3mm off the top of the front struts, then add a 3mm spacer at the bottom. I'd also suggest having the body and chassis mocked up you you can check and make sure the wheel will still be centered in the opening.

 

For the back it looks like you could cut a few mm off the springs, but I wouldn't want to go too far, the way Revell did the rear suspension if you lowered it too much it might bring the rear wheels too far forward in the opening. 

 

Of course, in either case you can "bore out" or elongate the mounting holes in the backs of the wheels so you have a little leeway to play around with as far as getting the wheels properly centered.

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It looks like lowering the front would be fairly straight forward. Since it's a 1:25 scale model, a good rule of thumb is 1mm=1 inch. That's not exact, but unless you are building a double-decker bus it's close. That being said, if you wanted to lower it three scale inches (for example), I'd cut 3mm off the top of the front struts, then add a 3mm spacer at the bottom. I'd also suggest having the body and chassis mocked up you you can check and make sure the wheel will still be centered in the opening.

 

For the back it looks like you could cut a few mm off the springs, but I wouldn't want to go too far, the way Revell did the rear suspension if you lowered it too much it might bring the rear wheels too far forward in the opening. 

 

Of course, in either case you can "bore out" or elongate the mounting holes in the backs of the wheels so you have a little leeway to play around with as far as getting the wheels properly centered.

Good to know, I was thinking about cutting into the wheel wells but chopping the springs sounds like a better idea :rofl:

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Looking good.

I'm thinking of putting two buckets in my 510- making it kind of a weekend autocrosser/hard-edged daily commuter.

I would have but it only came with one seat and its my first model lol. Stopped on suspension I'm just about done, fitting the wheels is going to be a challenge...
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