sebpv Posted February 2, 2017 Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 what if you put a hose clamp or two in the kink? Quote Link to comment
sebpv Posted February 2, 2017 Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 what if you put a hose clamp or two in the kink? and maybe add a piece of PVC pipe cut in half to strenghten the clamp Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 2, 2017 Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 Uni-coil could also likely fix that kink. You can sometimes get them at auto parts stores or easily find them online. They come in many sizes 3 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted February 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 Throttle cable is just some fleabay universal deal. As for the throttle body inlet my two ideas at the moment involve making elbows. Option one being to cut off the Vband that is on the throttle body now and weld an elbow in its place. Option two is make an elbow that would mount between the throttle body and intake. This was just a quick test fit so not worried about hoses. The water outlet on the new intake manifold is threaded so I could switch it out for an angled one if needed, but pretty sure I'll be able to get away with just shortening the existing upper hose a little. I have those unicoils on my heater hoses. In other news turbo position is perfect for running the drain line between the uprights on the motor mount brackets and plenty of clearance for oil feed and coolant lines. Exhaust angle out of the turbo will be nice and slight too. 1 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted February 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 More parts and test fitting. Not pictured is some 3" stainless exhaust tubing and a muffler. Engine harness is back out waiting to be torn down and hacked up to remove any unneeded wires. Beyond that I haven't had much time to devote to garaging this week so nothing else got done. 3 Quote Link to comment
southern620 Posted February 18, 2017 Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 Ive read through most of you thread , great build BTW, and im trying to figure out which shorty header you used on the NA Ka that fits. I got a long tube and its been modified to the point of no return trying to make it work with my 620 and it still dose not fit. Guess im asking so I don't buy another and it not fit. Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted February 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2017 That would be the cheapest S14 header fleabay had to offer. I knew it wasn't going to be staying for long so didn't want to drop money on a nice one. 1 Quote Link to comment
southern620 Posted February 19, 2017 Report Share Posted February 19, 2017 I'm in the same boat. I just need it to drive for a little while before I take the next step. Thanks for the reply. 1 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted February 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 And then the dash and body harness came out. If I'm feeling ambitious I'll take this opportunity to fill in the cracks in the dash, otherwise I'll just clean it up before putting it back in. At any rate this makes it easier for me to start routing the new body harness. 1 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted March 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2017 Got distracted working on the new daily and putting a proper exhaust on the mustang, but back to datsunning. I was able to retain the original fuse block mount, All that remains of the original harness. Now i just need to decide if i'm going to do disconnects at the firewall...probably. 2 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted March 6, 2017 Report Share Posted March 6, 2017 My mechanic said that bulkhead connectors tend to corrode a lot going through the firewall. I was thinking about that myself, still debating Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted March 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 Slow progress on this so far. As usual with my buying a new-to-me car it needed some work that took longer than anticipated, but such is life. I have been collecting a few pieces. The solution to my Tbody to radiator clearance issue. As it happens the company that makes my intake also makes elbows for it. Don't need the dizzy cap/rotor anymore so just a little dust cap now. The piece de resistance. GT3071R T3/V band .63 turbine housing, compact (3" in 2" out gt28 style) .60 compressor housing. After a week I finally finished getting the ignition switch attached to the new harness and loomed up. 2 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 Progress is progress, putting some real nice parts on this thing. :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted March 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2017 Won't be needing these anymore. Getting closer. 1 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted March 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 The compressor housing is a little bigger on this turbo than my mock up junker. Down pipe underway. I may end up doing a floor mounted ebrake for a little extra clearance. Thinking about doing a thing. 3 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted March 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2017 Another week later and I have added one more of the old connectors to the new harness. I do feel some sense of accomplishment in that I finally wrapped my head around the Datsun turn signal switch. I'll be reusing the little bracket I added for my previous switched power fuse box as a mounting point for various relays, flashers and the fiber light for the light/wiper switches. I figured I'd go ahead and revisit the intercooler test fit with some more details on how it fits. 2 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted April 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2017 Back from vacation armed with a new source of good quality economical stainless v bands (jegs in case anyone is wondering) and motivation to get to work on the exhaust. Down pipe is finished other than wastegate dump tube and finish welding. Rest of the exhaust is well under way. Sadly without going to an oval pipe there doesn't seem to be a good way to keep everything tucked up above the frame, but it's better than it was with the previous exhaust I made. I'm hoping to be able to finish this part of the project without having to buy anymore bends, but it'll be close. Either way now that I have verified the quality of these v bands I'll need to order one more. 2 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 5, 2017 Report Share Posted April 5, 2017 My thought for that is to weld a tube to the top of the cross member and add flex couplers to either side. Once the couplers are welded to the tube (before welding to the cross member) you can flatten the tube a bit in a vice to oval it for a bit more clearance. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jex-flx1344b?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-jones-exhaust&gclid=CNLx-tvAjdMCFRRqfgod7oEEUQ 1 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted April 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2017 I think working around the torsion bars would make that idea difficult at best. I'll crawl under there later to see. I had previously clearanced the trans xmember a bit so it would tuck a little higher. I'm not dragging frame, nor do I have any plans to go any lower so it really won't be a problem anyway. 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 6, 2017 Report Share Posted April 6, 2017 It will self oval anyways if you are low enough :) 2 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted April 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2017 I'm cool with auto ovalling. I did go back and check and running the exhaust over the xmember is a no go. In this case it is the torsion bar member that's the problem and there is no clearance above it. The hard part is done and I didn't have to buy anymore tubing. Now I just have to decide if I'm going to put the other vband before or after the carrier bearing xmember. I'm still waiting on that other vband to show up so I set to work on the sub harness for the coils. Power and ground are done, just need to run the trigger wires and loom it up. I'll be running this in wasted spark since my MS is one of the early boards with only a 15 pin serial port so running sequential spark would eliminate a couple of I/O ports that I think I'll need for other things. 2 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted April 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2017 Light garage weekend, but got a little bit done on one of the side projects. 2 Quote Link to comment
2wheel-lee Posted April 10, 2017 Report Share Posted April 10, 2017 I'm enjoying following your build. Keep it up! Being able to run tucked exhaust was one of the reasons...ok, probably the only one. With stock sized exhaust (1-3/4") I was able to easily route the exhaust up and over the crossmembers with my very poor exhaust building capabilities (using capability very loosely). Later, when I install the SR20 motor, I'll likely rebuild the crossmembers so I can run the exhaust through them. Quote Link to comment
WAGON JON Posted April 11, 2017 Report Share Posted April 11, 2017 Absolutely awesome build! Keep it up! Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted April 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2017 Thanks gents. 2Wheel, I would suspect with coilovers you should be able to cut a hole in the torsion bar member braced with a larger piece of pipe to run the exhaust straight through. Something I'll be considering when I get around to suspension work on this truck. Unrelated not I'm rather envious of your brake setup. I have the exhaust pretty well mocked up at this point. Just need to add the O2 bung, hangers and weld up all of the seems (that should only take 2-3 hours...). Rearer vband ended up going before the carrier bearing xmember, mostly because I couldn't get clearance between the floor and the xmember with it being placed after (I spent way to much time trying to massage the floor pan and xmember trying to get it to work). 2 Quote Link to comment
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