Jump to content

New 720 Owner in Need of Help with High Idle


mphilleo

Recommended Posts

The 80 model is wired differently. I think power for the choke heater comes from the farthest left hand side of the fuse box. The rear most one. 

 

The choke heater relay needs a charging alternator to send that power to the choke heater. If low alternator output, the relay usually buzzes. The choke heater is located up under the dash on the passenger side just above the kick panel.

 

 

If you can't find or fix the problem just connect the Blue choke heater wire to the Red idle cut wire at the carburetor. The idle cut is switched on and off by the ignition so it will work the same.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
  • Replies 31
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks Mike, you sure know these things. Boy what a complicated choke!  Tempted to hook up a cable..The idle cut wire is also referred to as anti dieseling wire I believe, it's the only other wire at the carb and I did jumper to it yesterday when testing.  I'm away from the truck now but I don't recall any fuse in the rearmost slot, and I also looked between the glove box and kick panel and didn't see any relays.  I'll have another look on Tuesday.  Thanks and Happy New Year!

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Hi Mike. Got to work on the 720 today. Running pretty well with the choke wire jumpered to the idle wire. I have power to that rearmost fuse but still can't locate the relay. Nothing above pass kick panel. I read something about one being behind the glove box or console? Like to find it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

Progress!  I bought a factory, 1980 only 720 service manual.  The choke relay is one of the two attached to the fuse panel, and the fuse is indeed the rearmost.  What I found was, the previous owner added an electric fuel pump (the mechanical one is still on the engine, disconnected), and ran it off of the input wire to the choke relay, thereby disconnecting power to the relay.  I jumpered it back and got power to the choke.  The remaining question is: should I power the fuel pump like it was (straight off the 10 amp relay fuse), or splice into the blue choke wire (thereby sharing the relay with the choke), or from another location?  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
  • 4 weeks later...

Yea I see a lot of unplugged holes and missing lines. I would suggest finding a donor or parts car and put it back together because you still have stock carb. or weber and remove. If you look at my 85' fuel issue post. we kinda went over most of the lines and i have many pics posted.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.