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1979 Datsun B210 - Build up


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Have you tried to put the RWD tranny on there yet?

The bellhousings are totally different. I work on both engines all the time. The flywheel, clutch, starter, motor mount, oil filter location, water hose locations and bolt patterns are different.

Internally they are the same but the castings are different.

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I am very aware of it, that is why i will be posting here the propper way to do this, It will not be so dificult so anyone with a little experience and some tools could do the same wiithout spending a fortune,

 

It will be as easy as cutting the FWD starter ring from the block and use the tranny to atach the starter with the RWD plate so it will be right, and with a well made bracket bolted to the passenger side motor mount bracket that will extend back to the side tranny bolt atachment to securelly tight the tranny to the block on that side, not a biggie, in the driver side is all stock as the tranny fit perfectly there,

 

As for flywheel i will use a RWD one as well as the clutch that will fits perfect too,

 

Oil filter location is not a problem at all so that stays untouched,

 

Cooling hose locations would not be a problem either, nothing that a nice U bends will fix with ease.

 

That way if in a future if i want to use any of the 2 castings i can and dont be tight up with just one choice like the more abused and less available SR20 RWD Block!

 

As you can see this has being well tought and sorted out to suit my pocket cuz it is easier and cheaper to find FWD SR20's and in better condition, This is not my first BBQ doing this type of stuff, just stay tuned guys this will be fun!

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I am very aware of it, that is why i will be posting here the propper way to do this, It will not be so dificult so anyone with a little experience and some tools could do the same wiithout spending a fortune,It will be as easy as cutting the FWD starter ring from the block and use the tranny to atach the starter with the RWD plate so it will be right, and with a well made bracket bolted to the passenger side motor mount bracket that will extend back to the side tranny bolt atachment to securelly tight the tranny to the block on that side, not a biggie, in the driver side is all stock as the tranny fit perfectly there,As for flywheel i will use a RWD one as well as the clutch that will fits perfect too,Oil filter location is not a problem at all so that stays untouched,Cooling hose locations would not be a problem either, nothing that a nice U bends will fix with ease.That way if in a future if i want to use any of the 2 castings i can and dont be tight up with just one choice like the more abused and less available SR20 RWD Block!As you can see this has being well tought and sorted out to suit my pocket cuz it is easier and cheaper to find FWD SR20's and in better condition, This is not my first BBQ doing this type of stuff, just stay tuned guys this will be fun!

Seems like you have a good plan. You don't see much of these cars around anymore.

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Ok here is somethin i do last nighet when imsomnia attacks,

Went downstaresand start mocking up the engine tranny combo,

If you are familiar with Nissan u must know SR20 block castings are different from FWD to RWD

But u can use the FWD one in RWD with some modifications but you cant do the other way around!

 

Here is what u need to trim from the FWD block to make it fit on the RWD tranny,,,

 

CDC06DD8-930F-4C48-B51D-74ECB339C729_zps

 

 

You need to trim all that to get the RWD starter on its place,

Then in order to atach the tranny on that side a heavy duty bracket need to be fabricated, and that bracket is bolted to the side of the block and goes back to the tranny bellhousing under the starter, this bracket must be minimum 3/8 thick steel or 1/2 inch aluminum,

It will be cool and super strong, this way any SR20 block could be used and i dont have to be obligated to use the ABUSED RWD blocks only!

 

Pss

By the way those mods is only on the starter side cuz the other side it a prfect fit!

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Hrm, that looks like a lot to remove, but I'm waiting to see how it work out. Should definitely be interesting. Mainly I'm wondering what this bracket is going to look like and where exactly it attaches to the block.

 

This may be a pretty legit way to have a decent SR20 swap without worrying about how beat the internals are, but I'm still not sure. To me if you buy an engine that you do not know the condition of, then you should tear it down and check it out. But then again the only imported engines I've ever bought were honda and they are all beat anyway :P

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there is hints of use and abuse that could see very clear without having to even open the oil cap, in aluminum blocks is easier cuz the aluminum with many cycles of heat and abuse tend to loose the factory shine and regardless how clean they are the aluminum looks dull, and not shiney like as cast ones, in iron blocks you got to do iy by the head only, but yes you are right if you got any suspicious just take it appart to do it right, but the whole reason on buying a jdm engine is to not have to do that unless you are building a race motor thing that no matter what the condition of the engine i always open it to do work on it,

 

The amount of material to remove,,, is not that much for real, the RWD casting do not have the starter ring whatsoever and the only difference is the lower ear for bellhousing attachment is in a lower position, thats it, i am just replacing the lower ear with a fabricated bracket that bolts to the engine block next to the motor mount bracket and maybe 3 or 4 oil pan bolts all together,

 

I do drill one hole on the tranny bell to acomodate the top right hand bolt and use a spacer betwine the tranny bell and the engine cuz the bell is hollow there,

 

But here is a rugh sketch of what that bracket will look like!

 

By the way the top bracket is not necesary but i just trow it out there just in case someone ask!

 

FE696FDA-DCFC-40BA-A373-5FD37D353587_zps

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