KlassicMotion Posted September 26, 2013 Report Share Posted September 26, 2013 Jason, if you've always had this problem, I would suggest popping your drums off on all four corners. You need to know what your working with. You need to know how much shoe and drum material is left, regardless of whether or not it's the issue. Quote Link to comment
Guest Rick-rat Posted September 27, 2013 Report Share Posted September 27, 2013 I had several battles with my drum brakes and always lost, went to 4 wheel discs,no regrets. If I ever get another Datto that will be my 1st priority 1 Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted September 27, 2013 Report Share Posted September 27, 2013 I had several battles with my drum brakes and always lost, went to 4 wheel discs,no regrets. If I ever get another Datto that will be my 1st priority Off topic, sorry, but which method do you prefer? Quote Link to comment
Kulper620 Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 Well I finally have a picture to post but I'm not sure how to get it up on here Quote Link to comment
Guest Rick-rat Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 Well I finally have a picture to post but I'm not sure how to get it up on here Try Post-tits or Post-ass threads, that might help get it up Quote Link to comment
Kulper620 Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 I'm not familiar with that term Quote Link to comment
Kulper620 Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 Lol I mean I like tits and ass but not sure that will help with my datsun pic Quote Link to comment
Guest Rick-rat Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 Truck looks pretty good, need more pics now that you know how to post them Quote Link to comment
Kulper620 Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 Just got my oil pan so once I drop the motor in and figure out how to modify the header I got with it since it doesn't fit past my torsion bar I'll roll it out of the garage and get some better picks Quote Link to comment
Guest Rick-rat Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 A lot of people on here say that the stock exhaust manifold is just as good as a header. It sure makes life a lot easier than trying to put that header on and doing modifications. Did you get it with a stock manifold? If the header was not installed there must have been a reason 1 Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 Sorry it took that pan so long to get there. Does it look like it is going to work? Quote Link to comment
Kulper620 Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 The header came on the motor which came out of a 510, I did happen to purchase a used stock header but don't have the second piece that bolts up to it so I am searching for one at the moment aswell as looking at the possibility of getting the after market one to work, and yes the oil pan fit perfectly and got her dropped in tonight, thanks 1 Quote Link to comment
Kulper620 Posted November 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 Good afternoon all ratsuners, so I have finally got my 77 620 king can back in running condition with the new motor and most issues have been fixed, but my brakes are still not working properly!! They have been giving me issues since I bought this truck 8 years ago. What happens is when I'm driving and I press on the pedal to stop it feels as if there is no pedal but once I get the pedal down about half way it suddenly brakes hard but yet still not enough to come close to say locking the tires up and in reverse I have next to no brake period! I have bled the brake system from m/c then all wheels from furthest to closest. I have done this many times just in case I missed some air. I have replaced all wheel cylinders and have no leaks. I have also adjusted all brakes to where they are just barely rubbing on the drums just because I knew they would wear down a bit and be in a good position, when the truck is off I get a decent amount of pressure in my pedal but I feel it could be better, my question being since nothing else seems wrong, is it possible that my power booster is working "too good"?? Everything else in the brake system looks good to go, I just have no pressure in the pedal at all when it runs, it just pushes strait down with way to much ease!!! Any and all answers are appreciated and if I can get this fixed I can get out to the meet in Monroe next weekend Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 You already have one post on this. I've moved the other and merged it with the one you already have going. Make use of it. To test power brake operation.... Pump brake several times to vent any stored vacuum. Press down on brake pedal in a normal manner and hole. Start engine. If working properly the pedal should drop toward the floor slightly. Do you have the leading and trailing shoes on in their proper positions? Did you bleed the NLSV (Nissan Load Sensing Valve) below the pass side seat on the inside of the frame? Pedal play? Lightly push the pedal down with your thumb. There should be about 1/16" of free play before you feel the push rod begin to bear against the master cylinder piston. Have you bench bled the mastercylinder? Quote Link to comment
Kulper620 Posted November 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 When the truck is off the break pedal is quite firm and after I adjusted the rod in the booster out a little bit there is only about an inch of free play before the pedal becomes firm. I have not tried to bleed the load sensing valve so I will try that next, my buddies father is an old school Datsun master tech and helped me put the shoes on a few years back so I assume I have them on correctly, haven't been able to get ahold of him to ask about this problem though, I just don't understand why I would have great pressure with no spongy feeling with the truck not running and then rite when I turn it on it's just non existent, I do understand how when the truck is off it would be harder to push the peddle down but the difference between the two is just massive, now is the larger shoe supposed to be in the front part of the drum or rear side just so when I look I can be sure Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Replace the booster Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 To test power brake operation.... Pump brake several times to vent any stored vacuum. Press down on brake pedal in a normal manner and hole. Start engine. If working properly the pedal should drop toward the floor slightly. Have you bench bled the mastercylinder? Did you try these two? There may be air trapped in the master cylinder still. Quote Link to comment
Kulper620 Posted November 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 I bled the m/c before I bled the rest of the system, then went back and bled it again, I haven't done the test you have posted yet, I will be trying that when I get home after work Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 did you bleed the NLSV? Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Back on page one, I posted the order for whch the brakes need to be bled. There are reasons Nissan has those specific instructions. If you don't follow the proper proceedure, you may not get all the air out. I'd suggest trying Mike's recomendation, then going back and bleeding all the brakes as per Nissan's recommendation. Quote Link to comment
Kulper620 Posted November 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 Do you happen to have a picture of a NLSV, in the description it says there is a front rear and center blender on it and I don't remember seeing that many bleeder valves, I may just remove it, if I do what would be the best way to reconnect the lines Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 Check out my 78 KC build, there's pics and details on how to remove it. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 The valve is not the problem. If the brakes are good with engine off , but spongy with engine running, it is not a bleeding problem. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 Removing the NLSV is not recommended. Quote Link to comment
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