removing crank pulley/oil seal

[zed]

Greetings guys,

another newb question: the back of the crank pulley on my L18 is permanently wet with oil. I'm pretty sure the seal behind it is shot. Question: do I need a special puller to remove the pulley - as the manual says - or will a normal pulley puller do it? Also, once I get the pulley off, is there a trick to getting the old seal out - other than a screwdriver? I usually end up wrestling with oil seals..... any advice would be appreciated.

[datzenmike]

I have removed just under a dozen L and Z crank pulleys and never used a puller. Just undo the 27mm bolt that holds it on and tap forward on the back of the pulley. (I use the 27mm socket) It will slowly exit the timing cover seal and come off. Be sure to hang on to the woodruff key (half moon shaped thingie) that locks it to the crank. Now you should be able to get at that seal. Just pry it out, the only concern is that you not damage the surface the seal sits against.

 

When putting together, put a dab of grease on the key to hold it in the slot. Be sure the pulley is gently tapped all the way back into place before tightening the 27mm bolt. If you push the pulley into place by using the big bolt the key can jam and you won't know it. If you keep tightening it, it will split the pulley, bugger up the crank or both.

 

To loosen the 27mm bolt (I use a 1/2" ratchet (lifetime guaranty)) or a Johnson bar. Put a piece of pipe over the handle to protect it and give a sudden, very quick smack with a 4lb hammer. Don't be shy, give it a good one and one is all you'll need. If space does not permit this, climb under and kick the bar with the flat of your foot. I've done this with engines on the ground without the benefit of being in gear or any compression. If you can put the parking brake on too.

[]2eDeYe]

He said "bugger the crank" hehehe

[datzenmike]

Groan.... not another RIS. :lol:

[zed]

thankyou - advice better than the workshop manual:D

[zed]

ok, this pulley nut is giving me sh*t :mad: I've tried the 4lb hammer plus pipe - no movement. Kicking from underneath the engine - nothing. Even tried wedging the socket wrench against the chassis and touching the starter:blink: still no go. What now? this nut is tighter than a differential pinion nut on a heavy truck....

any advice would be appreciated

thanks

[banzai510(hainz)]

I use a breaker bar and a cherry bomb muffler as my extension to break that sucker loose.

[datzenmike]

Just remember.... lefty lucy, righty tighty.:lol:

[hang_510]

^ :lol:

check the location: south africa

shit spins backwards on the other side of the equator :lol:

 

 

i had to use an air chisel to remove the crank bolt off a toyota 22re... after the 1" impact wrench broke :eek:

[zed]

Well, got it done at last:D Finally got the nut loose with about 5 kettles of boiling water poured over it and much pulling with a 2 foot pipe extension. Put the new seal in, but it went in just a little too easy, and sure enough, leaked oil all over the engine. So, pulley off again... got another seal, this time a much tighter fit - took her for a test run up to about 75 mph - and it's working great, no leaks.

thanks for all the advice guys:thumbup: