Narrowing a Ford 8.8, Questions????

[Dime Dave]

I’ll be installing Toyo 5 lug front hubs with oversize disc brakes onto Oil Drop. I’m looking at my options for redrilling the rear end to 5 x 114.3 so it will match the Toyo front hubs.
 
This got me to thinking; the 94-01 Ford Explorer uses an 8.8 rear with a 5x114.3 bolt pattern. These can be easily gotten with disc brakes, 3.73 ratio and a limited slip for fairly short money.  The only issue I see it’s the width. The 521 axle is 52 7/8” WMS to WMS. The Explorer axle is supposed to be 59 3/8” so it needs to be narrowed by 6 1/2” to equal the width of the original 521 rear.
 
Anyone ever have 8.8 axles shortened by 3  1/4” each and re-splined? Or do I need new axles if they need to be shortened this much?

[q-tip]

I've never had an 8.8 apart but if the axles are full diameter from spline to flange it could be re splines once shortened. A ranger rear end would be another option but they're not as beefy as the 8.8

[Dime Dave]

I’ve done some more research on Explorer 8.8 rears and also found a shop locally that can cut/respline the 8.8 axles.

 

The catch is they need to cut off at least 4.5” on each axle or 9” total to do it. I only need to remove 3.25” per axle for the 6.5” total width I need the rear end narrowed. Looks like I need custom axles, but there is a quirk to the 8.8 Explorer rear that might offer another solution. 

 

The differential on the Explorer is offset to the passenger side by 1.5” making the driver’s side axle 3” longer than the passenger side. The only difference between the axles side to side is length. If fact guys do a “quickie” 3" narrow job on these axles by cutting 3” out of the driver’s side and installing a passenger side axle in the shortened tube.

 

For me to narrow this 8.8 rear by 6.5” and to center the differential it means the longer driver side gets shortened by 4.75” and the shorter passenger side gets shortened by only 1.75”.

 

This is some good news because with 4.75” removed from the driver side axle means that axle can be resplined and reused.

 

On the passenger side 1.75” isn’t enough cut off to respline that axle, but there is an option to buying a custom axle for the passenger side.

 

I need to buy another long driver’s side axle. The Driver’s side axle is already 3” longer than the passenger side, so if the passenger side needs to be 1.75” shorter, I can use a driver’s side axle and have it cut down by 4.75” (3” + 1.75”) and use it on the passenger side.

 

I went and bought an Explorer 8.8 rear end. 3.73 gears, LSD, disc brakes, complete for $250. Now I just need to get a spare driver side axle, get the axles cut and resplined, narrow the housing, remove/add mounting brackets and rework the e-brake. Oh and get a drive shaft fit to the rear.

 

All in all I think it is worth it to have a rear with disc brakes, posi and will hold up to a bigger engine should I decide I need one in the truck.

[q-tip]

Sounds like you've done all the required research on this one Dave:lol: it sounds like it will be a pretty solid setup!

 

Will the place that modifies them do 4.75 instead of 4.5 to get the length just right?

[nis720]

If you're going to have it shortened it doesn't matter which 8.8 you get. Just have Ford 9" big bearing ends welded on and they have a kit that requires Cobra 11.6" vented brakes. I opted for 31 spline custom axles so i can run the Cobra LSD.

 

 

I just gave them the disired overall length (54" with the rotors) and they figured out how much to cut off.

 

 

[jesusno2]

Problem with narrowing up diffs for the 521 is the calipers either get really close the frame, Or really close the leaf springs. Just something to consider. I've narrowed up 3 toyota diffs now for 521 application now, and its close depending on how you clock the caliper position on the flange. Btw not to doubt you but every the 521 diffs I've measured were 52 9/16 straight edge to straight edge. weird :confused: 

[nis720]

The setup I went with allowed me to clock the caliper any way I wanted. The plates have multiple holes. And the Cobra calipers have the parking brake.

 

 

[thisismatt]

Very nice, nis720.  What did the whole axle (minus brakes) set you back after all the work?

[nis720]

Very nice, nis720.  What did the whole axle (minus brakes) set you back after all the work?

 

The work I had done at "The Gear Shop" in Paramount.

 

Custom Axles - $400

Mark Williams Ford 9" Torino ends - 150

Axle bearings - ??? don't remember

Currie Cobra Caliper brackets - 150

Labor to install parts - 300

 

That included them welding on the spring perches I had mocked up for my truck

 

I forgot I had made a post on here about the whole process.

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/40836-ford-88-build/

[housew]

very old thread I know. but I've swapped several 8.8s into jeeps and the ones you want (late 90s early 2000s explorers, with disk brakes) aren't centered. The pumpkin is about 1.5" offset to one side. So one axle shaft is 3" longer than the other. You could hack the long side tube 3" which would get you the width you want, offset you diff slightly to the other side if that works, and not have to get shafts re-splined.

 

I have a spare set of shafts if you want one to try.

 

I doubt you would ever be able to break one. I've never had a problem in my jeep with low gears, 36" tires, beadlocks and 2-3psi so I think you'd be hard pressed to break on a fairly light street truck.

[scooter]

If you go to 92 ranger 4x4 you get an axle 56.5 inches wide, in a 8.8 if you find a 4 liter truck, the downer is 28 spline axles and drums, but you still get an lsd and 3.73 gears. Still strong enough for anything in a datsun other than 500hp v8's or things with massive turbos.

 

This is what im doing with my 200sx, but im redrilling the axles for datsun bolt pattern and putting 280zx rear discs on it.

 

When looking at ranger 8.8's its easy to tell the difference between an 8.8 and a 7.5...