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Bagged and BD 67 V520


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I hear you on falling short of laying body. I did a C-notch, custom lengthened LCA's, driveline tunnel, exhaust tunnel, yada yada yada. I lay front subframe, arms and rear leafspring hangers, but rockers are 1.5 to 2" off ground... It is still awesome tho. The only way to really lay body in these unibody rigs seems to be full floor removal and custom frame... Which seems to me to lead to way more time & $$$. I'm stoked to see you have the ability to go there but have decided to keep your project managable. Finished, drivable and brutally low are awesome goals. Love seeing the progress!

your 411 is rad. the v520 is a totally different set up though, being full chassis. If i drive it for a couple of years without any trouble from the police I will pull it off the road and notch the rear and probably throw in my 1uzfe.

Once its notched and if i get caught the car is considered un roadworthy, I would need to find a new chassis.  

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Pulled the cab off the 520 yesterday, as I still need some filler panels. 



The cab of the 520 is/was so solid. Even the floors under the body were clean



A guy contacted me looking for a well body. He struck gold. Hopefully this will aid in the birth of a new 521. 



And we finish the weekend with a extremely happy wife, now the 520 is no longer in the driveway. 

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Its Saturday night, that means its time for an update...

Started rolling down some sound deadener through the cab



Then rolled it outside for the first time in 2 years




I lost my shit….. looks so fucking cool

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Its been a while since I have been able to work on my wagon. Busy at work and working on the house. 

I cut up the cab of the 520 ute. I saved the roof and the back wall, as it had some nice curves in the sheet. 


The rear quarters on the V520 had some accident damage and a whole lot of rust, intact I think the 15mm of Bondo was holding the passenger side together. 


I was quietly really worried about figuring out how to replace the rear quarter. luckily the 520 roof had the perfect curves.










A little work needed to pull the rear end in slightly, but not bad for 30 minutes work!!!



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Fixing rust and filling holes

The doors off my old 520 truck, were is far better condition than the doors that were on the wagon. There are some differences in the locking mechanism between the doors, unsure at this stage if the lock latches will swap, I have not actually looked properly. If they do not bolt in i will cut them out and weld them in… easy fix. 
Originally I was not planning on shaving the doors on the wagon, I got a little side tracked today and one thing let to another. came out nice, just need to clean them up now. I also filled the hole where the old fuel door was. Those old doors came in handy. 


there was a fair amount of rust on the inner skin behind the rear quarter. Replaced 95% of the rust today, just one small section on the lower wheel tub to fill. 


Well pictures tell 1000 words. 













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Got into the car port at last yesterday, to finish possibly the hardest thing on the whole build.. that rear quarter. Given a shrinker, stretcher and a english wheel it might not have been too much of a task, but given i have no sheet metal tools I think i managed to do a damn great job, with what I had. I used a portion of the 520 roof as seen in the previous post along with the front top corner of a spare front guard and a couple of other small pieces of sheet from the roof to finish off.


There was a huge amount of rust and damage to the lower quarter. I found a fair about of damage on the top half, but its manageable and I am not building a show car 












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the 520 lives on!!!! thanks for the likes, next up repairing the top of the front guards where somebody had some fun with some filler and a rust hole on the driver side rear QTR. The lower section of the rear upper tailgate is totally fucked out… next up on the "I don't know how the fuck I am going to fix that list" sure i will figure something out and the roll pan is also a total mess and has some complex curves in it thats also on the same list. Then all the rust repairs are finished and its time to move on.


I expect i will have to modify the front guards slightly to gap the doors nicely, I am yet to bolt the doors on, and seeing I welded 520 single headlight front clip on and dropped the front chassis horns for the body drop and replaced both sills, I expect some less than desirable gaps. 


Then steering, pedal box, electrical, body work and lets see where I am this time next year, hopefully close to driving a finished painted bagged and body dropped 520 wagon. 

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A little update from today


Filler pannel onto of the passenger guard 



cleaned up the drivers side door handle and welded up some holes, where i believe someone previously mounted a mirror 



Started on the roll pan, used more of the roof off the 520. Some complex curves in the rollpan, so i could not just bend on up. Starting to look good 




Now decisions, 

Full bumper as per stock, narrowed and tucked in (Bumper is slightly bent)


Bumperettes off the 520 ute, again tucked in close





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Leaning toward the bumperettes, shaving where the number plate currently is on the rear gate and adding a correct size plate box between the bumperettes in the roll pan. 

Might even be able to use a utility plate holder mounted in a recess to drop it lower so it contacts the ground on full drop......might not be clean enough for the look you are going for though. I prefer the stock bumper and a Jap sized plate. Only because the car is rare enough that you don't have to do something different, but then again its not mine so do what you want :)

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I like the the bumperettes and the frenched plate box.  I like the idea of incorporating the more of the truck that gave it life to this build!  This depends on the size of the plates where you live.  Our plates are 304.8 mm x 152.4 mm. 


Waynos Idea works also.

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