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Bagged and BD 67 V520


finney

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I might as well start a build up thread on here to keep track of everything. I have owned my 66 520 ute for nearly 2 years and a couple of weeks ago stumbled upon this V520. I had never seen one before so I had to buy it to add to my other project.


 


Other project is a full frame build Rod based on a 27chev RPU. been about 7 years now, bagged and running a true canti rear end, 1uz, hilux diff blah blah blah. everything built and designed by myself.


 


anyway back to the datto


The Day I picked it up


1098133_10151762802129764_1383913220_n.j


 


One week later


1186895_10151783230159764_795845684_n.jp


 


My Rod and my 520 truck


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this might sound line a stupid question but how do i separate the spindle from the lower control arm? I am guessing it has something to do with the little treaded bolt on the spindle but I cant seem to get it out. hard to understand what i am asking but i am guessing anyone that has pulled it apart will know what i am talking about. 

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I love it!  :thumbup:

 

You should look through my 411 wagon build for some ideas;

 

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/52056-misinformation-look-here-to-get-the-411/

 

You may also like;

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/7446-project-mx520-top-secret/

 

Keep up the good work!

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this might sound line a stupid question but how do i separate the spindle from the lower control arm? I am guessing it has something to do with the little treaded bolt on the spindle but I cant seem to get it out. hard to understand what i am asking but i am guessing anyone that has pulled it apart will know what i am talking about. 

 

In the middle of the lower spindle is a nut, this has to be removed, but first you need to loosen that "bolt" in it's hole, you cannot get this "bolt" anymore, so you need to try and save it.

What I do is take the nut off and remove the lock washer, then I put the nut back on almost all the way, then find another nut and put it on also, when both nuts are on the "bolt", it basically makes it so when you tap on the end of the bolt, you are really hitting the second nut, that way the end of the bolt don't flair, I personally use a very tall nut that allows me to thread in another short bolt, and I tap on that, but before I start tapping, I hit all around the bolt to try and loosen it, then I tap on the "bolt itself, if you hit it to hard it can actually warp the bolt below the nuts, so tap firmly at first, and work your way to harder, as once it is bent, then it is over with, then you just wail on it without the nuts, and if that don't force it out, then you need to cut it off level with the metal around it and use a punch to force it out of the hole via the back side, as it comes out the back, it is a offset tapered bolt.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Today I set the goal of cutting out the floor. I was going to cut around the body mounts and cut them out after the main bulk of the floor was out so they would be neat and tidy. I didnt do that and tried my Sawzall. Worked out nice and clean and ran down the inner sills the whole way and cut the verticals out on the body mounds nicely. unexpectedly. 

Once I had the floor cut out I could not for the life of me get it out of the car. I tried for ages, hurt my back and took this photo after about 30 minutes.

1236507_10151839370014764_1409393773_n.j

 

The only way to get it out was to go forward. This meant lifting the engine out. Fairly easy as it is a size of a lunch box. Still not something I wanted to do. lucky I have a engine crane that has been acquired

 

1236556_10151839571894764_2000186302_n.j

Once out and between the 40kn rain squalls I degreased the bottom with some degreaser in a 5L bottle from bunnings. Shit works really good. rather amazing actually. Got it back in the the shed and tidied up and trimmed some of he edges and cuts.

1240229_10151839572874764_793531345_n.jp

Now there is a whole lot missing and how I finished up

970010_10151839573949764_1770414153_n.jp

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

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Chassis stripped and degreased

 

Inner sills cleaned up

12353_10151857282459764_345194942_n.jpg

 

cutting off un needed shit

1374833_10151876293534764_1960437343_n.j

 

degreased 45 years of grime

 

547794_10151876290314764_1167470438_n.jp

 

Cleaned up the brackets that are not needed off the control arms

 

946398_10151886330699764_578914985_n.jpg

 

Going to raise the stock x member 

 

1390462_10151886329664764_1013603955_n.j

 

wire wheel and ranex

 

1378096_10151886327904764_25434428_n.jpg

 

All the un needed bracket removed

 

1374896_10151886328124764_1170610050_n.j

 

Wheel wells removed

 

1378043_10151876292104764_714617036_n.jp

 

And a mock up to close things up

 

1237001_10151863979589764_1672642856_n.j

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thanks,

Almost time to start piecing back together. Using a whole heap of parts I have collected over the years. 

1/2 Asco valves which i will reduce down,

tri 4 link 

Slam bags re7 rear bag on bar

slam bags re6 fronts with fabricated brackets 

triangulated lower arms

2 air tanks

2 az compressors 

stock fuel tank re located to the rear, 

 

Body drop works out to just over 3" in the front and 4" in the rear

I am not notching or building a rear clip for this one as I want one this one to be road legal and pass our rego system in West Australia. have not worried about it in the past but I would like this one to not be done on the sly. On stock rims and tyres I should be less than 50mm off pinch in the rear.

 

This build has been planned to strip everything down 100% before starting any welding or fabrication.  

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Modified vehicles need to be passed by a certified engineer and then approved by the department of Transport. Each state runs on different rules. Western Australia does not allow chassis modifications (notch or rear clip) 
If caught the car is taken off the road in short as well as fines. most the time there is no way to get the car back on the road. 

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