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Salvage Yard 610 - "Anita"


EdwardK

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3 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

Glad to hear it! Did you put in any kind of bump stop on the front? 

 
That is a great question! I put back whatever I took off; and it's been long enough I don't recall. If the stock bump stops are the kind that ride on the shaft of the strut insert, then I guess mine had rotted off and I'm not running any at the moment. lol If they're attached to the strut top hat, then I'm running whatever rubber was still left. 

 

I went out last night and finished the install of my modified alternator bracket, and threw some stickers on the car to help improve the smiles per gallon even further. Unfortunately my partner's lease on this hangar expires this week, so Anita is going back to a dirt driveway. Probably won't get a lot of work done until we get into a different building. (I just hate dirt so much.)

 

The last photo is most of the old parts that got replaced over the last year minus a battery, multiple brake boosters and a second alternator. Feels like a lot less with it laid out like that.

 

I've got some New Year's resolutions that kinda run parallel with this car so there should be some more neat stuff this year. 

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Edited by EdwardK
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  • 9 months later...

So after rebuilding my rear axles, I took the car out for another track day last week at Thunderhill - West. I've come up with a whole 'nother laundry list of things I plan to do in the future. 

She needs more front camber something fierce. I'll be ordering a bunch of front suspension stuff from Troy Ermish to get that corrected. As she sits right now, you'd get the slightest hint of rotation and then the rear tires would catch and straighten you back out, strange sensation in a RWD car. Also track driving on 680TR tires is a riot, kinda like piloting a bar of soap in a bathtub.

 

Some photos that illustrate the camber issues quite well. lol 

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After the track day my driveshaft u-joints have decided they hate my guts. So those get replaced as soon as I find the gumption to do so. I have some photos to share regarding the axle shaft rebuild so I'll probably do a post on all of that in one go.

 

I've recently got a lead on a nice KA24DE with some goodies to swap in. I'd like to be able to go back to the L18 later in life so I'm planning to either track down a spare crossmember or make my own custom one so as to preserve the OE member. I got looking at Maddat's stuff in Ozland and it looks like the 510 and 610 crossmembers are pretty substantially different. So that makes sourcing a spare hard, maybe a custom crossmember will be the way to go. Unless I'm misunderstanding something here, would love to be corrected. lol

 

If(big if) I build a custom crossmember I'll likely keep all my jigs and drawings for them, build some more for any members who're interested.

 

I've already made the cuts in the tunnel to adapt the KA transmission a few years back (Assuming the KA and CA transmissions are the same length, I'm like 90% sure they are.) and my driveshaft has also been modified to suit. I'll be throwing in a more efficient radiator and a mega squirt controller with this. I'm pretty sure these will have all my bases covered. 

 

Though that kind of power will also require better brakes, so it may be time to do the 280ZX strut swap that I've been putting off.... I dun wanna. For no particular reason mind you.

 

So tl;dr

 

Suspension mods and brake mods incoming. Then a potential KA swap maybe early to mid next year.

Edited by EdwardK
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14 hours ago, EdwardK said:

 it looks like the 510 and 610 crossmembers are pretty substantially different. So that makes sourcing a spare hard, maybe a custom crossmember will be the way to go. Unless I'm misunderstanding something here, would love to be corrected. lol

 

As I recall, the main difference is that the stand-ups for the engine mounts are welded on (510) versus bolted on (610). If my memory is correct, it should just be a matter making new stand-ups? As for reversing it, you could just bore out the sleeve for the LCA bolt and use one long big bolt instead of the tapered pin Nissan used? That way the crossmember could be installed in either direction.

 

Also, if you don't mind a bit of welding on thin metal, there is a rear sump pan for the KA that would just need some trimming to clear the steering linkage to work. Is the KA24DE from a truck or 240SX?

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2 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

As I recall, the main difference is that the stand-ups for the engine mounts are welded on (510) versus bolted on (610). If my memory is correct, it should just be a matter making new stand-ups? As for reversing it, you could just bore out the sleeve for the LCA bolt and use one long big bolt instead of the tapered pin Nissan used? That way the crossmember could be installed in either direction.

 

Also, if you don't mind a bit of welding on thin metal, there is a rear sump pan for the KA that would just need some trimming to clear the steering linkage to work. Is the KA24DE from a truck or 240SX?

 

I'll see if any of the local guys selling parts have a 510 crossmember. Would be fun to at least compare them side by side and get some documentation going. I've often wondered if they were symmetrical enough to flip like that. Will definitely give that idea a good think once I get to that point.

 

I am aware that at least some of the truck/suv KA's being rear sump and may also go that route. The sexy option would be dry sump, but I don't think I can justify the cost on that lol.

 

The engine in question is "allegedly" an ex race engine out of a '91 240sx. "Allegedly" it's pushing like 220 at the crank. I'll believe it when I see it, the guy is a friend of mine and is certainly a believer of not letting facts get in the way of a good story; but the price is good whether it's a built motor or a paperweight that I have to rebuild.

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4 hours ago, EdwardK said:

I've often wondered if they were symmetrical enough to flip like that.

 

The crossmember will easily bolt up backwards, it's just the control arm "pins" that are the issue. I have tried it two ways, one was remove the tubes that the pins go into and reweld them in backwards, and I have bored them out to one size all the way through and used long bolts. 

 

What the stock "pin" looks like, to give you an idea what I mean...

 

800-412Xdatsun510frontsuspensionbolt_600

 

 

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