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Salvage Yard 610 - "Anita"


EdwardK

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If you come up with a simple solution to this, i'm all ears.. right now it's looking like building one from scratch is about the only option.

 

By "only option", I mean that the only option as far as a bottom mount manifold that mounts the turbo further forward. I'm considering deleting the brake booster in my particular application, as 510s have been running around with this engine for years without boosters. Of course, the brakes will be upgraded(probably 280zx, front and back), I just won't have the luxury of pussy-footing my brake pedal like every other person in an L-powered 610. If I'm able to come up with a custom bottom mount later on, I certainly wouldn't be opposed to having power brakes back. Truth of the matter is, people have been running large amounts of power in cars years before brake boosters were standard.

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By "only option", I mean that the only option as far as a bottom mount manifold that mounts the turbo further forward. I'm considering deleting the brake booster in my particular application, as 510s have been running around with this engine for years without boosters. Of course, the brakes will be upgraded(probably 280zx, front and back), I just won't have the luxury of pussy-footing my brake pedal like every other person in an L-powered 610. If I'm able to come up with a custom bottom mount later on, I certainly wouldn't be opposed to having power brakes back. Truth of the matter is, people have been running large amounts of power in cars years before brake boosters were standard.

 

I'm going to agree with you here. I think with the right brake and m/c combination it would be just fine. As long as I can still lock up the tires, I'm happy. (Not that locking them up is a good thing mind you.)

 

Like I said before the Z31 MC's are really short. Iunno if they'd work for this application or not, but it would definitely clear fine without the booster on.

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If you went with a typical 280zx front brake and 280zx or maxima rears, normally you would upgrade to 15/16 booster, do you go with a smaller booster to compensate of you removing the booster? Like to the stock 13/16? Or smaller

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If you went with a typical 280zx front brake and 280zx or maxima rears, normally you would upgrade to 15/16 booster, do you go with a smaller booster to compensate of you removing the booster? Like to the stock 13/16? Or smaller

 

Ideally you'd stay in the same range, likely 15/16". You definitely wouldn't go down in size switching from boosted to manual. 

 

The master is all about how much fluid volume you can move. Technically, the booster should only change pedal feel, not how much fluid volume you can move.

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I've never fiddled with swapping bmcs or anything this is all new to me, but my train of thought had been with a slightly smaller master being able to fully depress the brake peddle would be come easier, which would combat the added pressure from deleting the booster

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my train of thought had been with a slightly smaller master being able to fully depress the brake peddle would be come easier, which would combat the added pressure from deleting the booster

 

You are exactly right. One size smaller makes the pedal softer, one size bigger makes it harder. Stepping down a size would keep a similar pedal feel. Just have to ensure you still have enough travel to properly operate the calipers. That might take some trial and error, though. Hopefully not much trial or error. 

 

Usually when you add 280ZX brakes without upping the master, the pedal gets a bit softer. On a 510 it sort of makes it feel like it has power brakes.    ^_^

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That makes total sense. The trial part wouldn't be cheap either unless you had a hoard of bmcs laying around. I really want to avoid derailing a build thread so this will be my last irrelevant comment, but I read in a dq article about a guy upgrading to 280 front stuff, but then opted for the wildwood 4piston calipers that clear 14s... I know the 280zx brakes will be enough to stop my. 610 with a ka swap, but is it worth the extra 40$ per caliper to go with the Wildwoods? A little less unsprung weight and better braking?

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That makes total sense. The trial part wouldn't be cheap either unless you had a hoard of bmcs laying around. I really want to avoid derailing a build thread so this will be my last irrelevant comment, but I read in a dq article about a guy upgrading to 280 front stuff, but then opted for the wildwood 4piston calipers that clear 14s... I know the 280zx brakes will be enough to stop my. 610 with a ka swap, but is it worth the extra 40$ per caliper to go with the Wildwoods? A little less unsprung weight and better braking?

 

$40 to me sounds like a more than reasonable trade-off. But I've never tried this myself.

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I know the 280zx brakes will be enough to stop my. 610 with a ka swap, but is it worth the extra 40$ per caliper to go with the Wildwoods?

 

IMO, no. Stick with OEM parts, that way you can always get replacements easily. Also the piston seals in the Wilwoods need replacing every so often. The 280ZX does not. 

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  • 3 months later...

hey EdwardK can you take a pick of your old transmission for me i need to see what shifter stick i need for mine

 

Oh jeez sorry for the late response!

 

I can do that, or if you want I'll sell it to you.

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I'm still stumped with the turbo thing right now. I've got the Transmission and drive shaft all tucked up where they go, but the motor is still on the floor.

 

...And currently there's a '65 Sunbeam and a '80 Rabbit sitting in between the motor and the 610. lol

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  • 1 month later...

That's like stepping between a bear and her cubs.. not a good idea.

 

I'm thinking I might just put the CA in the truck and put the L18 back in until I can afford a N/A SR20... I like the weight losses, and would love to have ITB's under the hood.

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So uhh...

 

*Maniacal laughter*

IMG_19700117_134215_zps8vrd0dba.jpg?t=14... 

 

IMG_19700117_134224_zpsqragjogv.jpg?t=14

 

Okay, so I'm not putting a 302 in it at this time. I was cleaning the shop out and that happened for shits and giggles.

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  • 9 months later...

Alrighty~! Back to working on this beast since the truck decided to take a dump.

 

She also has a name now, so things are getting serious. "Anita" because I need a car for college. 

 

I just ordered everything needed to get her back running and on the road, just a couple of things to address first, hydraulics all need to be flushed and checked for leaks, tires, fiberglass the bad holes until I can take the windows out and weld everything and I'm giving it a crappy once over rattle-can job to inhibit rust at least temporarily.

 

Here's the new color, not particularly happy with it, but it'll work

DSC09365_zpsnm70fw2v.jpg?t=1463014353

 

And another swatch to show the difference

DSC09366_zpsrsoyj8xk.jpg?t=1463014355

 

Also you may recognize the wheels from my 280zx because that car has been put up on blocks and is gonna be parted out as a lost cause.

DSC09367_zpsqem8ptrj.jpg?t=1463014355

 

If I can locate a pressure washed to borrow I'm going to undercoat everything including the engine bay

DSC09368_zpsz0klorba.jpg?t=1463014355

 

Anybody want my old steelies?

DSC09369_zpsxpd5tppk.jpg?t=1463014355

 

And also lastly, the door latch just went out, and I discovered this in the door... It looks like a shotgun blast...

DSC09370_zpsm0couoeo.jpg?t=1463014355

 

 

But anyway, I have a timeframe of about twelve weeks to get her up and running, so I'll keep everyone posted.

 

 

Also as a side note, my carpet is completely ruined. I was thinking about finding a cheap victorian style rug and cutting it to fit. I think it would look so ridiculous it'd be cool.

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 I was thinking about finding a cheap victorian style rug and cutting it to fit. I think it would look so ridiculous it'd be cool.

 

More of a Persian guy myself...    ^_^

 

I had a Bamboo Tan 510 with tan interior that I used a brown and tan (mostly) Persian rug for the carpet. It was rad.   B)

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  • 4 years later...

So, it's been a while. Long enough for the rattlecan paint to have faded a lot and long enough for me to have my degree. I never got this car running for college, however I did get it running for my move across the country from SC to CA. Broke in a new motor and transmission by driving cross country. I had to adjust the fan belt twice, and had my brake booster fail, but aside from  that the only major issue I had during the trip was the van deciding that it was time for new tires. 

 

IMG_20200516_124138_zpsccc5lu7f.jpg

 

IMG_20200517_132014_zpsa3xbjold.jpg

 

IMG_20200518_161947_zpsb0sgx61w.jpg

 

IMG_20200523_201106%201_zps8rxjc8zw.jpg

 

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Glad you got to go on a long trip in your 610! The rattlecan paint looks like it was bleached by the CA sun, so it looks ready for being out here.

I drove my 710 hardtop cross country - it was a memorable experience!

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I've been playing around with 3d printers throughout my time at college and so I thought I would put that knowledge to work on some interior upgrades.

 

First and foremost, a cup holder. Because that's a creature comfort that really matters to me.

IMG_20200722_115604_zpslcakiga4.jpg

 

I'm not 100% happy with the fit on this or it's aesthetic, but it will work for now.

 

IMG_20200728_125242_zpssmwlaz1s.jpg

 

I also decided I was tired of having a tachometer ziptied to my steering column, and there was a rattle inside my gauge cluster. So I figured I'd kill two birds with one stone and went about pulling a decent chunk of the dash apart. Disassembled the cluster and found my rattle. The trip meter reset had come apart into pieces, so after finding all of the clips and stuff floating around inside I sourced a new spring from a pen and reassembled it. Lo and behold, my rattle is gone AND my trip meter can actually be reset now. I did not however replace my instrument lights while I was there, and I should have but that will just be a project for another day.

 

IMG_20200722_142708_zpsyenhmiou.jpg

 

I decided this would be a good place for my Tach. It's gonna look dumb, but less dumb than it's previous location. I also have no idea what the goo is. Something tells me this car's previous life somebody had epoxied a watch into here. But even though the part is more or less ruined I would feel bad cutting it up.

 

IMG_20200723_155629_zpsbcr7vz9u.jpg

 

So I put my degree to work and designed a replacement. In the end I only got three points of contact correct, but that's close enough for me for now. I don't want perfection at this time, just functionality.

 

IMG_20200723_161401_707_zps0n7icv2a.jpg

 

Here it is unpainted next to the original and my tach:

 

IMG_20200724_114118_zpsthqcszla.jpg

 

And here it is installed. Again, I'm not 100% satisfied, but it's better than it was.

 

IMG_20200728_121508_zpsi7wkfo4y.jpg

 

Anyway, I've got a few more projects in the works for this car and I'll update here as they get finished. Y'all be good. 

 

 

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Anybody know how to get the lock tumbler off the bootlid? It looks to me like it just slides straight out, but after some serious wiggling I'm kinda sketched out about either bending or breaking something.

 

Also any idea on how to straighten out bent up window chrome window trim on this guys? I'm thinking about printing a positive and negative that are about 6" long and just pressing them repeatedly to straighten them back out.

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20 hours ago, EdwardK said:

Anybody know how to get the lock tumbler off the bootlid? It looks to me like it just slides straight out, but after some serious wiggling I'm kinda sketched out about either bending or breaking something.

 

Once you pop the clip off the back side that holds it in place, it should slide straight back and out. 

 

And it's pretty beefy. It should be tough to break.  😁

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