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Got a 1200 again


Dguy210

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Little update:

Been super busy at work lately and I really haven't done much on the 1200 lately. We did the Fun Run yesterday so I had to work for part of today but still got some time to hit the Rocklin PNP. The B210 was a '78, an auto and pretty stripped, grabbed the fuel pump spacer and that was about it. I would've grabbed the passenger side metal motor mount if it was a '77 or older. Figured out a super easy way to mount the KA into the B210 playing with it last night, I just need to grab a 74-77 B210 passenger side motor mount. Hit up a couple of places on the way back home and grabbed an oil pressure sender. Napa had the temp sensor but not the threaded part, Autozone has the threaded part with it but it is twice the price :confused: 

 

Pulled the valve cover on the A12 and the head was super clean, pulled the plugs on the block and they looked good and stuck a light in to look at the pistons, they looked ok but #1 had a bb sized crater. I probed it and it seemed just superficial so I'm just going to ignore it for now. I've run way worse looking pistons with no problems in the past. When I get time I need to put the parts Ranman brought over onto the engine block. Still need to find a flywheel and some other parts.

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  • 2 months later...

I'm looking right now to have a driveshaft made for my 1200.  I have two of them.  One is usable (and on the car now) and the other is not the best, but probably usable.

 

As soon as I get the driveshaft made, you have have the better one that's on my car now.  I'm still hitting driveline shops getting pricing, but I'm having this done soon.

 

I'm in SoCal, but maybe the 510 keeper or someone else is coming down for Eagle Rock or similar..

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I'm looking right now to have a driveshaft made for my 1200.  I have two of them.  One is usable (and on the car now) and the other is not the best, but probably usable.

 

As soon as I get the driveshaft made, you have have the better one that's on my car now.  I'm still hitting driveline shops getting pricing, but I'm having this done soon.

 

I'm in SoCal, but maybe the 510 keeper or someone else is coming down for Eagle Rock or similar..

Cool, I'll keep this in mind.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...

Reposting content in progess some from late 2013 to the present: from NWDATSUNS

http://nwdatsuns.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=63

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Also got a better pic of the coilovers.
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Put together this trans mount, I still need to get the trans sitting just right, the transmission jack I bought for doing the heavy ass Mercedes trans has been great for this. I painted it after this but no new pics yet. The 5 speed it is getting is a bit of a fat bitch so I'm probably going to have to remove the original trans mounts, they're not useful anyways so no great loss.

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Removed the old trans mounts that were in the way.
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Also got the final placement eyeballed. Kind of a big bitch so I might need to reroute some of the lines, they just clear with it crammed all the way up. I'll see the final placement when I get it mounted to the engine. The trans still needs to come back out for some "adjustments" so this is mostly just placement. Also put a new slave on it to go along with the throwout bearing.
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Still need to drill the holes into the floor for the mount, kind of regretting doing the carpet first now

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Ended up stopping work in the garage after I spent 20 minutes looking for some flywheel bolts that were sitting on the bench right in front of me.

I ended up cutting out one of the vents by hand to get an idea of the look, unfortunately the copper can't be cut by the laser.
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Also have something special coming for the 1200....
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These are my absolute favorite wheels for a 1200...however the wife doesn't know I bought them yet

Not dead, just super busy. Job hunting
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So this happened....
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Also this...
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Just a test fit though, I need to remove the swaybar to get it to set in and then play with the alignment before cutting the holes on the crossmember mounts.

Engine is in and mounted to transmission. Still need to get all the bolts to mount it right and then bolt it to the crossmember. Probably not going to get a lot of time to work on this until near Christmas.
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I dropped the swaybar a bit to fit the engine in. It is supposed to clear without modifications, but I need to swap it out for the thicker one I picked up a while back anyways.
[Dec 2014]
This unfortunately is a manual....itty bitty tranny tunnel.  I cut off the original mounting points for more clearance and in the original rough alignment the stumpy transmission seems to just fit. I expect I'm going to need to do some minor banging on the tunnel with a BFH or a slide hammer to make everything clear nicely. Unfortunately, I'm not really going to get the  time off for Christmas I thought I was. So it is going to sit once again for a while.

On to something new:

Space for the radiator was super tight so did some work on that tonight. Started with changing out the studs on the water pump. Also I think I might pull the crossmember back out and take an extra 1/4 inch of height off the mounts to free up some clearances for the transmission tunnel, although that wold put the oil pan to crossmember clearance at almost nothing. Or maybe I could just put a spacer between the crossmember mounting points and the frame to drop it slightly, shouldn't change the angle of of the LCAs enough to matter I'd imagine. Also way easier.

Starting:
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This pulley is unused. However, I was a little worried in pulling it due to the obvious weight and rubber mount inside. Looked online and it is NOT a harmonic balancer and seems safe to remove. Anyone with experience on this? It really provided a lot more clearance.
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After removal of the extra pulley and swapping the bolts:
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Test fit of radiator:
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Spaced the crossmember down 3/4 of an inch, made such a huge difference on tranny tunnel clearance. I also pulled the crossmember back out and redid the mounts a bit to give better coverage under the motor mounts, everything is nice and happy and aligned with the transmission. I didn't really get much extra rad clearance, only one finger width between the end of the head and the firewall so not much to go with anyways.

I kind of want to get a new radiator too as this one has the lower hose on the wrong side, but 26 inches is the max width and the aftermarket ones are all ~27-28.  Also I already have this radiator so I may just use it anyways.

Next up is swapping the rearend for the 510 wagon rearend and installing the lowering blocks. Or I may start on the wiring harness and relay block. I may just start with the electrical stuff as I can get it knocked out pretty quickly.

I tested my header setup and it does not clear the steering box at all, so looks like I'm going to need to try a cast iron stock KA24e exhaust manifold, if not I'll have to get a turbo manifold off ebay and work on the exhaust clearance. I can't really find any info on what others have done for the ka24e swap in a 1200, just some small pics on datsun1200.com.


Current needs to run (off the top of my head) are as follows:
Install 510 wagon rearend and new brake cable, replace drum shoes while I'm at it. I'll have to see if this is going to eventually require fender flairs or not....
Pull and clean gas tank.
Install high volume low pressure fuel pump next to tank. Run electrical.
Install swirl pot and low volume high pressure fuel pump, run new fuel lines to engine bay. Run electrical.
Install intake manifold.
Rewire old wiring harness into new wiring harness and do all the assorted relay boxes and other electrical (I find the electrical stuff easy so not too worried about that).
Get exhaust manifold and make up temp side exit to get to the muffler shop.
Acquire and shorten driveshaft...I may already have a 510/b210 auto driveshaft that will work I need to look through my stuff.
Install radiator and add fans..wire for electrical...I still need to buy a temp probe to start the fans. I can use an on/off switch temporarily for test runs.
Misc. electrical bullshit.
Wire up alt.
Wire up ignition switch.
Install seats.

Change out front breaks for MKlotz big brake kit which I already have the parts for.
Buy/install tires for the advans I have.
Buy small optima battery or remote battery, the battery tray is already shaved and I have a mount for a small battery on the frame rail in the engine bay.
Hookup speedometer cable and other tranny related switches.
Some other stuff I've forgotten.

Fill with fluids.
Test fire and troubleshooting.
Shake down runs.

Probably need to install a radio and speakers at some point too, or just use my bluetooth speaker temporarily.

Drive to Canby


Got some work done it, 510 wagon rearend is in. Also changed the crossmember drop to 1/2 inch from 3/4 inch, noticed the crank pulley was kind of close to the front frame rail, ended up with about a 1/16th to 1/8th inch of clearance, I might clearance the rail abit if it becomes a problem...should be okay. Also picked up a OEM cast iron exhaust manifold and cleaned it, thankfully that clears (barely) the steering box whereas the headers had no chance in hell (headers were free and came with the engine).  This engine is just such a tight bitch in this car, I'm actually thinking "tight bitch" may end up being the car's name but I'll have to drive it first, or maybe something having to do with it being pale yellow, haven't decided yet.

Exhaust manifold from Pick-n-pull, I also have the Y-pipe and a bit of the heat shielding. I wire brushed/cleaned it and hit it with high-temp paint, which I only had in silver so it's silver.
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Cleaned up and installed the starter, as it is a ka starter to Z stumpy transmission I drilled out the starter threaded holes, then ground off some surface rust and give it a lick of paint.
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Crank pulley clearance after various fuckery, I'll probably just end up clearancing the frame rail a bit.
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Out with the H145 in with the H190.
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H190 installed, seems to fit pretty decently. I used the bottom bits of the shock mounts that got from Raymond (tendril) and a set of lowering bolts (have blocks just not installed...yet). The shocks are shot but the hole on the shocks is large enough it just needs a different rubber inset (or I'll machine up a nylon one). Brake hose to rear brakes needs to be longer also. I'm not sure what length the shocks are, I wonder if 510 wagon rear shocks would be close enough?? I didn't have a fitting rubber bumpstop so I'll try and pick one up later to install. I still need to pull and clean the gas tank and install the FI pumps so I'll be back under there shortly anyways. Still need to pick up brake shoes and do the rear brakes. I originally had begun degreasing the diff to be repainted and got sidetracked...so screw it..it goes in dirty.
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  • 3 years later...

Holy crap, I've owned this car for 5 years and still haven't gotten it finished.

 

I've finally settled for the most part in the new shop so that I could actually work on the car again.

 

Last weekend the first order of business was to empty all the crap from moving out of it. Second was to make a new list of what needs to be done and to look over the current condition as I really haven't touched it much in the last 2 years.

 

Well had some time today and did some work on it again.

 

Got the wiring done for the fuel pumps and the feed line from the tank to the pump done. Also ran the wire under the carpet up to the ECU for the fuel pump. If I can find my flare tool and go pick up some rubber 5/16 fuel injection line I can finish up the fuel system

 

Also installed a rebuilt KA wiring harness I picked up recently, have a #10 ECU modded by JWT to install also which is now just sitting on the floor of the passenger footwell. I'll mount it soon. Relays are already installed as needed, down to basically just a few wires that need to get finished up for the KA harness. 

Ended up putting a new hole in the firewall for it and running it under the injector rail. I still need to replace the rubber gaskets on the injectors (boxes on the right).  oTiD4Ou.jpg

 

I do need to figure out where a couple of the wires go of the KA wiring harness and to clean up the 1200 wiring harness and tie it into the alt and other places.

Edited by Dguy210
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1 hour ago, Farmer said:

Its nice to have a space to work on it now.  Never knew you owned one 1200 that is

 

I've actually owned a quite a few 1200s over the years. Still want to get another sedan at some point.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
4 hours ago, njoz1200ute said:

Is the KA swap as much of a headache as many people have rumoured?

 

Did you make your own harness or is there one available to buy?

 

The KA swap in the 1200 is not much fun. It really just barely fits and I did some clearancing and other monkeying around. I honestly would not do this engine swap again, or if I did I'd cut the trans tunnel to start (this was a manual), and do some other things in a different order.

 

The harness was reworked by a guy out of California who doesn't do social media, Konig had posted info in a thread here at some point. I got it secondhand with the ECU for a very good price. I guess normally he reworks them one at a time, not sure if you need to send in an old harness.

 

I'm currently reworking the 1200 engine harness to neaten it up significantly, use relays for the headlights, and tie into the KA harness. I worked out and labelled each end of the wires. Pics are bit old and I've already removed quite a bit and worked in new wires etc...

 

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Edited by Dguy210
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