Distributor Problem?

[Radim]

IT'S ALIVE!!!!! I'm still not quite sure how this all started but it seems like someway, somehow, it jumped timing. Pulled the distributor but it didn't come out as easy as it should. Inspected the end of the shaft and splines and the looked good. Reinstalled it and it went in easier than it came out (too many innuendos) set TDC for like the 7th time and it started up with a little feathering of the throttle. Ran like a tractor until I timed it to 12 degrees and it is running like a top now. The crazy thing is it only took like 25 minutes instead of the past 8 hours of me scratching my head and bugging RATSUN.

 

Really appreciate everyone's help.

 

I should of done it early this morning so I could of parked next to Radim at the Mooneyes open house.

 

CHEERS!!!

LEEEEGIT!

 

Haha, I know man we could have been the two 620s at the show!!!

Post pics!

 

Was great hanging with you and your wife today!.... (errr, yesteryday)

[Buzzbomb]

Good for you..It's possible the hold down bolt wasn't tight enough? That would be my guess. From what I've gathered, there is no way for a Datsun to "jump time" according to those in the know on this site. The reason, at least to my understanding, is that the distributor runs off the crank (via the oil pump spindle), NOT the valvetrain, like for instance, a Chevy small block. One other thing it could have been was a sticking advance plate. This is why I had to replace my distributor last week, as per Datzenmike and datsunaholic's suggestion. Last time you drove it, it could have gotten way out of whack and just stayed there, and your messing with it loosened it up.

 

Now that you know how easy it can be, it'd be worth your while to turn the dizzy around like Hainz shows in his video. Those spark boxes are EXPENSIVE, and facing it forward will keep it a lot cooler.

 

In any case, good job!

[Lee R]

Alright, so 7 months later I'm getting the same symptoms again.  Truck was parked for about 3 days.  Started up fine but I did not let it warm up (maybe ran for about 45 seconds) before I tried to drive off.  It stalled and I thought it was do to being cold.  I try to start it again and the motor just turns over.  This was 4 days ago.....

 

1.  Coil is 3 weeks old.  Check light shows power to the coil, power from center coil plug, and power from the coil (red and green) to the dizzy (looks like a 79 DK4).

2.  Has fuel.  See it, smell....actually running a little rich but not enough to stall.  Plugs were a little wet and on the gassy smelly side.  Replaced the plug anyway.

3.  Tried grounding #1 and no spark.  Set TDC, changed the spark plug wires to match (new wires as well) and still nothing.  Just turns over and over.

4.  Battery is about 6-7 months old, starter is 6 months old...alternator tests fine.

 

El dizzy seems the only explanation for now.  Ran perfect the few days before it just quit.  Any input friends?

[ggzilla]

EI dizzy explains what?

[ggzilla]

Does the coil get 12V when key is in Start?

[Lee R]

EI dizzy explains what?

 

As in the dizzy might be bad.

Does the coil get 12V when key is in Start?

Accel Ig coil shows 12 volts on my meter.

[datzenmike]

Forget the dizzy, it was working!!!!

 

 

Probably flooded. Take top off air filter and prop the choke plate open with a wooden dowel or long pencil. DO NOT PUMP THE GAS. Hold throttle to the floor and crank until it clears out and fires.

 

If severely flooded remove and dry plugs. Crank over without plugs and pedal floored to dry the cylinders and avoid pumping the gas pedal as this just dumps more gas in.

[Lee R]

Probably flooded. Take top off air filter and prop the choke plate open with a wooden dowel or long pencil. DO NOT PUMP THE GAS. Hold throttle to the floor and crank until it clears out and fires.

Did this per manual....no dice. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

was there hard rain or fast snow melt off. maybe condensation under the dizzy cap

 

this is a simple fix whatever it is

[ggzilla]

Lee> Tried grounding #1 and no spark.

 

Mike> Probably flooded.

 

A better spark test is to use the coil wire. And don't ground it but place it 1/4" from a ground. If the coil sparks while cranking, but #1 wire doesn't, at least you know the EI module is good

[Lee R]

Super busy so only working on it when time allows.  I did check voltage again and now it seems to fall and jump....8 volts up to 14!  Had the alternator checked at the shop and it is fine.  Coil got too hot to touch so swapped with another coil and it fired right up.  

How can a 12 volt coil produce 14 volts?

[banzai510(hainz)]

simple

battery is 12volts

 

when running the alternator should produce 14.1 volts.

 

Point coil running on 12-14volts will get HOT(or fry/burn up the points!!!!!!!!designed to run with Ballast resisitor so it will get close to like 6-9volts. Only see full voltage on START then goes thru ballast when key is ON.

 

EI coil is designed to run on 12-14volts with NO ballast resisitor. If using a EI coil with a point dizzy one needs to double up the ballst resisitor or points will burn up or wear premature.

 

 

Most likey Kids who get Datsuns Buy BLING BIG coils not reading the fine print install a wrong ohn coil and car brecks down prematurely

[Lee R]

I have a DK4 and an Acel coil (both non point) and no ballast resistor (not needed) in the setup and it has never had a problem in YEARS....1.4 ohms on the coil.

[ggzilla]

That is a low-energy coil for points ignition. D4K matchbox can use it no problem. Points coils are marked "12V" so you can't go by that.

 

Or you could upgrade to a high-energy coil like the 1979-1982 Nissan coil or an Accel 0.7 ohm version.

[banzai510(hainz)]

need to verify on the coil for sure. but usually if its a higher ohm coil in the 1.6 ohm range i assume its a point coil and needs a ballast resistor.

The Matchbox can handle it but not the coil at 14volts if its a point coil.

 

the Accel Spuper STOCK is a point coil that needs a ballast. The "Super Coil" which is actually pretty big still comes with a extra ballast in the kit and should be used with the stock ballast if used with points. Cant verify if used a EI dizzy.

 

Just becuase it been ok for soem time dont mean its correct.

Its Hot for a reason.

 

to be safe get a MSD Blaster 2 or a nissan 79 200sx/620/720 coil with no ballast

[MarkB.]

I gotta echo this stuff about having the right coil.

 

This thread helped me troubleshoot removing a MSD 6AL and going to the matchbox dizzy.  But the coil thing mystified me.  I had my old points coil and a Pertronix Blaster.  I couldn't find a coil that I got with the matchbox (parts bin needs some thinning . . .) and I didn't understand the ohm thing.  I got it now.  I bought the last '79 Nissan replacement coil at the local O'Reilly for $30.  It's .85 ohms with no ballast.   It fired up the first time and the coil itself ran nice and cool.  I ended up running a switched 12V line directly from the fuse box to the coil.  Amazingly, my Autometer tach worked wired to the - side of the coil.  

 

These guys know way more than I do, but I will add a small tip:  If you haven't already done so, ground your distributor by running a wire from a screw on your distributor to a bolt on your timing belt cover.  It can't hurt.  To my ear, it sounds smoother with the ground but, hell, I don't know . . . .

[banzai510(hainz)]

It fired up the first time and the coil itself ran nice and cool. I ended up running a switched 12V line directly from the fuse box to the coil.

 

MarkB

the blk white wire is already from the fuse box. Why not use the this wire thats already there? this is the switchable 12volts.

also most tack work as the - side is what is usually switched on/off. as the coil will alway have 12-14volts on the plus side when key is on.

[MarkB.]

I wish I knew.

 

For some reason, that entire side of the wiring harness is not functioning correctly.  The Black/White and the Blue/ Black for the start position have no volts.  The Yellow/Black for the washer fluid's got nothing either.  The wires for the old dual points got nada. Same for the horn.  But amazingly, the side markers and headlights work.  I did check the fuse box.  WTF?

 

I have spent the better part of 13 years with a voltmeter and DAMB colored wiring diagram trying to get this car to work.    I've had a 12V blowup in the engine bay.  I've started the car while tightening nuts on the starter solenoid with a wrench (that hurt, a lot).  I had a voltage regulator catch fire while out for a drive last year.  For a while, my alternator threw off little plasma blasts, leaving little burn marks on the inside of the hood and engine bay.  Electricity is NOT my friend.  I've learned a lot about volts and amps and recently about ohms.  Whenever a new, presumably young, Datsun owner joins the board, I'm tempted to say don't buy bling or fancy wheels; get a good multi-meter and an Electricity for Dummies book.   

 

Did I mention, I'm totally color-blind.  It makes wiring problems a sporting proposition.  My younger son helps me now.

 

If I had not discovered this board when I did, I'm sure I would have dumped the car.  Today, it's running and has, for the first time since 2001, all of the parts on it.  So to you guys who take the time to explain stuff,  THANK YOU.

[banzai510(hainz)]

MarkB

sometimes back of the key swithc will loose connection and yourll loose the 12volt START . Or clean the switch.

 

the blk/wht wire should come from the fuse box via key switch also. Have you cked in back of the fusebox. I seen the solder joints fall apart in back thus not letting the current volatage to the key switch. or just wiggling them will clean up the connection. than also under the glove box area that the connecters are plugged in the correct other connectors. I seen soem people hook them up wrong and say the car dont start,make sure they match.

 

if horn dont work you wont have tail lights/or brake lights, I think. This was fixed by finding broke soolder joint under fusebox.

 

510 wiring is simple once you get it. I spent many a nite retracing stuff. Lucky I had 2 cars to go by.

[ggzilla]

If it works, drive it. Bad wiring harnesses aren't worth messing with.