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My '75 710 build


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New update

 

Winter is coming along and I was able to buy myself a new daily, a 1987 Toyota Pickup in really good condition, I've been driving it for the past couple of weeks and it's pretty good on gas. I felt that it was the right time to put the car away and actually work on it like I have wanted to since I bought it. I have decided to stick with building the L20 and I wanted to do a stroker setup on it and I have read that there are a couple of ways to go about this, and I was just wondering what the best way is. I'm not very worried about money and I have dual 40 DCOE's and I just need to build up the motor. I have read that one can use an L20 block and fit a z series crank from the trucks and it does the trick but you need to regrind. Also read that using a z series block and an amount of l and z series parts can make an lz hybrid but I'm really thinking of going an interesting way with this. I don't have too much experience on building engines but since I don't need the car on the road anytime soon, I figured I would take my time and really learn with this.

 

Was looking to buy a cam and ran into 3 options

 

Rebello

 

Isky

 

And Schneider regrinds

 

The plan is not to daily the car, I want it to run well but have the power in the higher ranges, I won't put a lot of mileage on it yearly and will mainly just be ran every now and then except for the winter.

 

Plan is for new paint, back to the stock color 012

interior changes like new seats and rear upholstery

install my Alpine 6411's

New coilovers and adjustable suspension in the front so I can run a small bit of camber

Maybe convert the straight axle to some sort of 4-link or IRS, not sure though

Completely refinished engine bay

And then a CRAZY L series build, I'm not looking to do a swap because I really enjoy the sound and feel of an L series

 

Any help with advice  would be very helpful, and thanks for reading!

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  • 1 month later...

 

 

Went and bought a pair of Hayashi Commands off a guy that lived relatively close to me and the plan was to flip the faces and get them polished and this is how they turned out

 

Before

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After

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Also bought a chin spoiler back in March and did fiberglass repair and some new paint so it would match with the car

B8C3036F-C031-49CA-9C54-2ECC7747C8EB_zps

 

Also, i decided to have some takeyari pipes made, and they are removable which is pretty helpful, mainly gonna run these during shows, too much of a headache to run them around town all the time

5FE4D32F-6F50-4EAC-95B4-B78865622A0F_zps

 

Roll in and final setup at BLOX, turned out to be a really good show, great atmosphere and was a really organized setup

8D751D10-1A8C-425E-9948-B43907C47AB9_zps

 

9D9999FC-5894-4BC2-A949-718EA66E0307_zps

 

 

14E42BF5-3345-4489-BFEA-E9796A9AD693_zps

 

C15ADB53-7B98-40CB-AD1B-C994D5AEBF84_zps

 

BBEF13D4-0674-480C-BFDB-D29781B80E6D_zps

 

Now I'm on the lookout for a wider pair of 14's to match the rear, more updates will come soon

 

What did the chin spoiler come off of? Do you know the brand?

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Just received my z22 crank in the mail, I'm gonna take it to the machine shop and get it ground to fit into the l series block, then I'm gonna need to find some ideas for rods and pistons. I know that people usually go with the z series rods because they're longer and provide a better ratio.

If anyone would like to help with recommendations I would really appreciate it and I've been reading many of the threads on the lz series builds

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Just received my z22 crank in the mail, I'm gonna take it to the machine shop and get it ground to fit into the l series block, then I'm gonna need to find some ideas for rods and pistons. I know that people usually go with the z series rods because they're longer and provide a better ratio.

If anyone would like to help with recommendations I would really appreciate it and I've been reading many of the threads on the lz series builds

The Z22 crank fits the L20B block ... there is no grinding needed! They share the same main and rod bearings.

 

Your only limitation is the L20B blocks cylinder wall thickness. There are limits to how much you can bore the L20B block. You should easily be able to bore to 87mm or 1mm over the stock L20B's 85mm bore.

 

When over bored to 87mm you can run L20B or early Z22 rods and Z22 truck pistons. This makes your L20B a 2.2 liter (stroker)engine.

 

If you feel lucky, you could over bore the block 2mm to 89mm. Now you can fit KA24E pistons to the L20B/Z22 rods. This gives you a 2.3 liter (stroker) engine.

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The Z22 crank fits the L20B block ... there is no grinding needed! They share the same main and rod bearings.

 

Your only limitation is the L20B blocks cylinder wall thickness. There are limits to how much you can bore the L20B block. You should easily be able to bore to 87mm or 1mm over the stock L20B's 85mm bore.

 

When over bored to 87mm you can run L20B or early Z22 rods and Z22 truck pistons. This makes your L20B a 2.2 liter (stroker)engine.

 

If you feel lucky, you could over bore the block 2mm to 89mm. Now you can fit KA24E pistons to the L20B/Z22 rods. This gives you a 2.3 liter (stroker) engine.

 

Damn it datzenmike! I knew I should've just messaged you haha. Thanks for all the quick info, I didn't know that the z22 crank and bearings fit right in, the block is at the shop so I haven't been able to fit it. I'd really like to get the 2.3, but the 2.2 is definitely safer so I might just go with that

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  • 3 years later...
  • 1 year later...
18 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Hi Will!

Hi Mike!

Just stalking some 710s over here. My F10 is getting trucked off to its new owner in the next couple days and I'm trying to figure out what sort of car I should track down next. (a 1200 coupe maybe??)

...but I don't want to derail the thread!

Nice to see work progressing on this car - getting a car on a rotisserie is a rare opportunity. What color will it be once it's back together? Back to silver or something new?

(also, congrats on your graduation?)

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31 minutes ago, Will said:

Hi Mike!

Just stalking some 710s over here. My F10 is getting trucked off to its new owner in the next couple days and I'm trying to figure out what sort of car I should track down next. (a 1200 coupe maybe??)

...but I don't want to derail the thread!

Nice to see work progressing on this car - getting a car on a rotisserie is a rare opportunity. What color will it be once it's back together? Back to silver or something new?

(also, congrats on your graduation?)

 

 

Thank you! Car will be repainted in code 012, the original silver. 

 

Graduated with a BS, working on a master's but got impatient and sold off my Rx-7 so I could focus on this and getting a Formula Ford in the future. 

 

Best,

Thomas

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On 12/14/2019 at 2:17 PM, shakotan710 said:

Thank you! Car will be repainted in code 012, the original silver. 

 

 

I remember this car popping up on Craigslist at about the same time that I picked up my 710 about 10 years ago - I think I got scared off by it having an automatic transmission?

Anyway, really curious to see how it turns out!

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Auto is the same length as a 71B 5 speed Will.  The body has 3 threaded holes per side and the cross member has 2. Just slide back or forward one hole, I forget which. The cross member will need to be modified some but this is how the shorter stock 4 speed and the longer automatic share the same cross member.

 

I like automatics because they are survivors. It's hard to drive the shit out of them.... they are 'little old lady's' cars.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Keep on righting those wrongs!

It looks like the floor repair is going really well - did you find a 710 donor, or are you remaking the rails and panels?

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8 hours ago, Will said:

Keep on righting those wrongs!

It looks like the floor repair is going really well - did you find a 710 donor, or are you remaking the rails and panels?


Will,

 

Thank you! The rails and panels were remade.

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