510 Relays and switches

[KlassicMotion]

Sorry to wake this thread from the dead, but i'm currently going through the same thing...1971 4dr sedan from auto to manual. tranny swap is done and working, but i want to get rid of anything i dont need. i Understand the relay by radiator and the 2 behind the strut tower passenger side. but what about those 2 in front of the strut tower on passneger side? can both of those go?

 

Laecaon can you post that pic that's gone from the first page again?

 

Yes, both the smaller relays in front of the right side strut tower can go..... As long as you take care of jumpering/splicing the wires as described below:

 

(In short, you need to move the two red/black wires from "back-up light relay" (forward most rectangle/steel housing), down to the reverse switch on the trans.  Then, you need to jumper the ignition yellow/black with the starter yellow/black wire from the starter relay (black plastic).

 

 

So you are converting from auto and points to manual and matchbox?

 

Easy, remove all auto stuff. Remove the relays at the front of passenger fender. Remove the relay on the radiator.

 

 

And I hate the Haynes manual for the auto wiring of the cars, it misses stuff.

 

The inhibitor switch is mounted on the auto tranny.

 

here is a better diagram that explains the auto wiring of the relays.

 

For Reverse lights, Take the 2 Red/black wires and run them down to the reverse switch on the manual (this requires unraveling the harness), now you dont need the forward relay on the fender. Delete any extra wires.

 

To start you car, open the harness and find the 2 black/yellow wires, one going to the starter solenoid, and the other going into the cabin of the car. Splice them together (this completely bypasses the inhibitor wiring, and the second relay on the fender). Delete any extra wires.

 

 

The one thing I haven't figured out yet, is the starter relay/inhibitor switch.  I understand what Laecaon is telling me to do, and obviously his wiring diagram actually shows the relay, versus the Haynes diagram which does not show it at all.  In addition, I did have my wires jumpered at the inhibitor switch connector, and that is how I was able to start the car.  So I played around a little to try to learn a little more about the system.  I un-jumpered the two yellow black wires at the inhibitor connector, and unplugged the starter relay (see pic), I traced down which YB wire goes to the Ign. switch, and which one goes to the starter.  I jumpered those two wires, and omitted the third wire from the system, and the car started right up.... I'm figuring out in my head how this system works as I'm typing this out, so bare with me here....  The starter relay is how the inhibitor switch stops the car from starting.  Get rid of the inhibitor, then there's no need for the starter relay... I got that part now. 

 

Here's another question I'm working on in my head:  The inhibitor has a wire that goes to the reverse lamp relay, so I'm assuming that the inhibitor also acts as the reverse lamp switch at the tranny. 

 

 

 

 

I'm pretty sure this is the diagram Laecaon posted:

 

[skyblue]

Thx for the diagram. One more question, I eliminated the relay by the radiator but my question is cN you just eliminate the wires that go to it? Also, where is the carb switch the blue/yellow wire goes to?

[Laecaon]

That relay on the radiator is for Dual points cars. You can remove all wires going to it as well. Just make sure you still have the one wire from the dizzy to the neg side of the coil.

 

As far as the Carb switch or the Blue/Yellow wire... My car came with a Weber and a few things missing wire wise. I think I just yanked the blue/yellow wire out of the harness completely.

[KlassicMotion]

Also, where is the carb switch the blue/yellow wire goes to?

Go back to my original post. I edited my pics last night with the proper names. The "carb switch" should be the switch on the throttle linkage by the firewall. Use an ohmmeter to verify.

 

Sadly I can't tell you for sure about eliminating all these unnecessary switches, because the 620 has stolen all my time away from the 510.

[skyblue]

Laecaon- hmmm. The Black/red, black/yellow and black were all jumpered together so I got took them out. The the PO did some funky wiring with the ignition wires so I'm not sure which wire is the one from dizzy to coil. But I'm going to install a pertronix kit. That should have that wire right?

 

Klassic - ok I see it now. That makes sense. Thanks.

[KlassicMotion]

You could just go ahead and run your own new wire from the dizzy to the coil. That would also ensure you have good connections and the least amount of resistance in the circuit. That's what I did when installing the E.I. dizzy.

[Laecaon]

Yea. on my car it was just a black wire anyways from the Dizzy to Coil. Just make sure you connect to the proper set of points as there are 2 tabs...

[KlassicMotion]

I've been told the "proper" set of points is the one closer the engine, but does it really matter? As long as you have a direct wire from the points to the coil, the system doesn't care which set it uses as long as they are gapped correctly.... I use the second set of points as a backup for when the first set burns up and I'm away from home.

[skyblue]

I'm not using points anymore, installed a pertronix kit. Rebuilt engine is running, but I was wondering if I need to keep the stock resistor?

[banzai510(hainz)]

Negro Please.

It says it in the Pertronix instruction to keep the ballast resisitor and stock coil. Pertronix doesnt want more than 4 amps.

[skyblue]

Yes I know. But I keep reading otherwise so I just wanted to triple check.

 

And I ain't no negro.

[banzai510(hainz)]

if you use a 3 ohm coil that pertronix sells you dont need the ballast.

But you loose the HOT start funtion of lowering your ohm vaulue thus getting a stronger spark at Start.