brodster Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 There are a couple of ways to tell which stroke it is on. What I do is pull the #1 spark plug. Get it to about TDC by looking at the front pulley and checking in the spark plug hole, probably like you already did. Then back the crank off a few degrees, that is rotate the crank so it before TDC. This sounds funny but you are going to jam a finger in the sparkplug hole. Just enough to make a seal. No you can rotate the crank by hand pretty quick past TDC. If you are on the compression stroke, you will feel pressure build or hear air pass by your finger. If you are on the exhaust you won't feel anything. Also make sure you are turning the engine the right way. I always forget, so I just look at which way the rotor spins when I push the starter. Make sure the rotor is spinning the same way in this process. If you have the valve cover off, you could simply just look at which valves are opened and closed. Quote Link to comment
Toney Posted June 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 Ok now the stroke is on compression and rotor is about 10:30 or so, does the rotor need to be directly towards cam head? Quote Link to comment
brodster Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 Okay so if you are on the compression stroke for sure and the spindle is engaged appropriately in the bottom of the dizzy, you can bolt that down and consider it good. Hainz would know better, but I can't remember what angle the rotor should be at now. And I don't have a reference car at my disposal. But, if you put the cap on, where does the rotor line up with the number 1 spark plug connector? Remembering which way the rotor spins when it runs, is it way before it, dead center, or way after. If you didn't make too many adjustments, it should be closer to #1 than the others with the engine at TDC. Quote Link to comment
Toney Posted June 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 Engine at TDC and rotor is just a bit before dead center on #1 in cap however still around 10:30 Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 Hainz would know better, but I can't remember what angle the rotor should be at now. 11:28 is the angle. Quote Link to comment
brodster Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 Engine at TDC and rotor is just a bit before dead center on #1 in cap however still around 10:30 That seems to be in the ballpark, especially given what tristin said. At this point, I would follow allow the timing setup in Hainz's video. He knows this part a lot better than I do. But last time I did this, I got my timing gun out and just started messing around the two adjustments on the dizzy until it fired it up. Then I rotated it to spec. I think if you follow his vid, and you can't even get it started by adjusting the dizzy to both extremes, we may have another problem. Quote Link to comment
Toney Posted June 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 That's the angle it's at Quote Link to comment
Toney Posted June 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 ok so what i interpreted from watching Banzai's video, the angle of the rotor does not really matter as long as the cap is lined up correctly with the rotor and #1 plug wire point? Quote Link to comment
brodster Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 ok so what i interpreted from watching Banzai's video, the angle of the rotor does not really matter as long as the cap is lined up correctly with the rotor and #1 plug wire point? Yes I believe this is true. As long as the cap and rotor align you will get spark. This isn't really a problem in your case, but when or if you upgrade to a matchbox dizzy, you have to get the right pedestal and adjusting plate, otherwise you can never adjust it right. I just got my hands on a matchbox dizzy and it looks like the previous owner didn't have the right adjuster plate. So he sliced it, removed material, and welded it back together to get the right advance. Also, when you say the rotor is "just a bit before dead center on #1 in cap" does this mean that when engine is at TDC, the rotor is lagging behind dead center on #1 cap. In other words, if the engine were to rotate just a bit more, it would then be lined up exactly with #1 cap? Also, which part of the rotor, the edge of the "T" part, or dead center down the rotor. I take it you haven't been able to get the engine to at least fire up at all? Quote Link to comment
Toney Posted June 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 I got the center of the T on #1 plug, the engine popped a few times and is definitely sucking up gas it wants to star i can hear it, I'm goin to try having a sandwich and then get back at it Quote Link to comment
brodster Posted June 8, 2013 Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 I got the center of the T on #1 plug, the engine popped a few times and is definitely sucking up gas it wants to star i can hear it, I'm goin to try having a sandwich and then get back at it Sounds like you are in the neighborhood. Last time I had this problem, I didn't have enough advance on my dizzy. I readjusted all and it fired right up. Quote Link to comment
Toney Posted June 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 Where should my dizzy be positioned, should I have it about I between retard and advance or more towards one side? Quote Link to comment
brodster Posted June 8, 2013 Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 When I put a new dizzy in I just put it somewhere in the happy middle. Keep in mind there are two adjusments for the advance. You have the lower one where it attaches to the pedistal and another where the indicator is. Where is it now? Maybe it give it a bit more advance and see if that helps it want to start. Quote Link to comment
Toney Posted June 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 About middle more towards advance side And advance is turning dizzy counterclockwise? Or clockwise? Quote Link to comment
brodster Posted June 8, 2013 Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 Off the top of my head I think the rotor turns counter clockwise. Think of it this way, if we want more advance, we need to rotate the dizzy body against the direction of the spinning rotor. In other works, if rotor is turning counter clockwise, spin dizzy clockwise. This will make the points open sooner in relation to the crank position. Also there should be markings near that adjustment plate where the 10mm bolt is. You may have to scrap some grease, but in one direction there should be an "A" or "R". Rotate towards "A". Quote Link to comment
Toney Posted June 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag129/Tony9172/B0141FEC-5FBA-4B81-AA68-514F9B0C025E-8927-000012D51B51CC8C_zpsab92b9ca.mp4 Ok I have been rotating it back and forth a bit and will run only when I have ign turned, whe. I let go it dies <a href="http://s1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag129/Tony9172/?action=view¤t=B0141FEC-5FBA-4B81-AA68-514F9B0C025E-8927-000012D51B51CC8C_zpsab92b9ca.mp4" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag129/Tony9172/B0141FEC-5FBA-4B81-AA68-514F9B0C025E-8927-000012D51B51CC8C_zpsab92b9ca.mp4" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a> Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted June 8, 2013 Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 ok so what i interpreted from watching Banzai's video, the angle of the rotor does not really matter as long as the cap is lined up correctly with the rotor and #1 plug wire point? Correct. Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted June 8, 2013 Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 About middle more towards advance side And advance is turning dizzy counterclockwise? Or clockwise? turn the dizzy to the right to advance Quote Link to comment
Toney Posted June 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 Alright so far... Engine is firing up but can't keep an idle I am running a 32/36 weber carb Quote Link to comment
Toney Posted June 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 Or it seems as if choke is not operating correctly? Quote Link to comment
brodster Posted June 8, 2013 Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 I am not very knowledgeable on carbs, but the choke shouldn't be too big of deal in hot weather. We have same 32/36 on our L16, and it fires right up with out messing with the choke. We also did a complete valve job too. Question: Where is the dizzy when it sounds best? Where is the advance? Do you have a second person to help and a timing gun? It is hard to tell when it is barely starting, but it may give you some indication whether you need more advance or not. Quote Link to comment
brodster Posted June 8, 2013 Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 Certainly could be a carb problem too. What all did you change or adjust between the time it was running and stopped running? Quote Link to comment
Toney Posted June 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 I changed the air cleaner that's it though an cant keep it running long enough to check for vacuum leak Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted June 8, 2013 Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 If all you did was change the air filter, look for any wires or hoses you might have inadvertently disconnected/compromised. I've had this happen several times. Quote Link to comment
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