bmacster Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 After banging my head for about 6 hours, I have no idea why the truck won't start at this point. I reverified all of the timing on the truck and it is spot on to get a base timing and SHOULD start. I can only think that it MIGHT be the oil pump/dizzy alignment but I've again, got it at 11:28, still nothing. When I did have the oil pump at this position in the picture below, the truck ran like crap but it still ran. Both coils are firing as far as I can tell I have new plugs, wires, O2 sensor, most of the vac lines have been replaced one at a time to ensure they are all in the correct location. At a total lost. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 looks wrong to me, zoom out and get another pic Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 and now that i look again, what motor is this? Quote Link to comment
bmacster Posted June 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 and now that i look again, what motor is this? Z24 The oil pump is at the 11:28 position now - it would start when it was in the picture above though, just ran very, very poorly. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 that doesn't look like 1128 to me dude. at least in that picture.. that looks more like 130 make sure the grounds are all hooked up around the carb area. Otherwise it won't start also. may or may not be your problem, just something i ran into once.... Quote Link to comment
bmacster Posted June 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 that doesn't look like 1128 to me dude. at least in that picture.. that looks more like 130 make sure the grounds are all hooked up around the carb area. Otherwise it won't start also. may or may not be your problem, just something i ran into once.... Sorry I should have been a bit more clear - The picture above - it did start but it ran like crap. When I moved it to 11:28, it won't start at all. I'll take some pictures and upload them. Be back in a bit Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 Then something is out of whack. I would verify lower crank sprocket is correct with dimple/bright link, then the cam sprocket, make sure the spindle is at 11:28 install the dizzy, verify that the rotor is on spark plug 1 and go from there. the z24 caps are clearly labeled I1 E1 I2 E2 etc, for Intake plug 1, exhaust plug 1, intake plug 2, exhaust plug 2 etc... If you have to move the spindle off 1128 to make it run, either the timing is off with the crank/cam, or the firing order is wrong on the distributor. You said it ran like shit at 1:30 position but did run at least.. means one or the other is off. Could possibly be that you the firing order is off on the plugs, or timing off on the crank/cam.. and or the dizzy is 180 out. (the spindle top is actually crescent shaped so it can be backwards/aka 180 out) Quote Link to comment
bmacster Posted June 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 Then something is out of whack. I would verify lower crank sprocket is correct with dimple/bright link, then the cam sprocket, make sure the spindle is at 11:28 install the dizzy, verify that the rotor is on spark plug 1 and go from there. the z24 caps are clearly labeled I1 E1 I2 E2 etc, for Intake plug 1, exhaust plug 1, intake plug 2, exhaust plug 2 etc... If you have to move the spindle off 1128 to make it run, either the timing is off with the crank/cam, or the firing order is wrong on the distributor. You said it ran like shit at 1:30 position but did run at least.. means one or the other is off. Could possibly be that you the firing order is off on the plugs, or timing off on the crank/cam.. and or the dizzy is 180 out. (the spindle top is actually crescent shaped so it can be backwards/aka 180 out) Went out there and did some more tinkering, it sputters/backfires but no start. I did verify the cam and crank sprockets are as should before I put everything back together. The valve clearance was off and redid that as well. I did retest the coils and the exhaust coil is not arching. I'll go grab new coils and try it again. If that doesn't work, take the oil pump off and turn 180º and try again? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 If that doesn't work, take the oil pump off and turn 180º and try again? Why do that when one can move the plug wires in stead. have you tried just taking the bolt out that locks down on the dizzy pedastal and try moving it more one way or the other advance or retard. It might start. if your valve clearance is OK Maybe your just off a tooth. All I would do is put the motor to TDC on crank look at where your rotor lines up in the dizzy cap and see if it points to a plug wire and better be #1 plug wire and should be right ON. Im not a Z series expert but make sure you got the adv plug wires correct Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 Well, verify its accurate before changing anything. You can see the rotor will point to wire #1 at tdc, i Quote Link to comment
bmacster Posted June 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 Ok, picture time. Quote Link to comment
bmacster Posted June 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 Well, verify its accurate before changing anything. You can see the rotor will point to wire #1 at tdc, i #1 wire on Intake, on the cap, not at the #1 exhaust wire/plug, right? Sorry, this is my first time doing anything at all regarding timing. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 I assume this is counter clockwise fire order you have ??? correct? on the plug wires? Datzenmike should get this or Datsunaholic. to me it looks close enough to dialed in by turning the distributor. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 IIRC yeah it fires Intake one first. both coils have power? Are there four wires inside the distributor? Quote Link to comment
bmacster Posted June 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 Huh, ok, that makes sense. I'll turn it 180 then. The exhaust coil does not fire. I went and got 2 new coils, just in case. Quote Link to comment
bmacster Posted June 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 Turned the spindle 180º and it starts, runs with a very slight miss BUT it is acting like something is binding when I attempt to start it. I am going to go get some vac hoses and a new battery. The old battery is shot and some of the hoses have some good cracks/tears in it. Still puzzled about the hard start though, it wasn't doing that when it was 180 the other direction... Still though... YAY! A touch more progress. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 It acts like something is binding.... Does it seem like its hard for it to turn over? Does it try and almost "kick back" the starter, like the motor tries to spin backwards almost against the way the starter spins the motor? If thats the case, the timing is advanced to far. At least that's what was the case for me. L series motors go about 10-12 degrees advanced. Naps motors need to be about 5. Get it fired up, warmed up, set the timing... Should be ok from there (if this is whats going on) Quote Link to comment
bmacster Posted June 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 It acts like something is binding.... Does it seem like its hard for it to turn over? Does it try and almost "kick back" the starter, like the motor tries to spin backwards almost against the way the starter spins the motor? If thats the case, the timing is advanced to far. At least that's what was the case for me. L series motors go about 10-12 degrees advanced. Naps motors need to be about 5. Get it fired up, warmed up, set the timing... Should be ok from there (if this is whats going on) Yeah that is exactly what it is doing. I may be one tooth off on the spindle, but it looked right at least from everything I have seen. I'll play with the dizzy and see what I can get from there. Quote Link to comment
bmacster Posted June 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 It runs! Having an issue with finding the mark on the crank. I'll re-verify everything, one more time, and see what I come up with. Did a short test drive today down the hill and back, great power, even got it sideways by accident (oops) since I was so used to it being a slug. What a difference! No pinging going up the hill neither. Gonna get a light on it Saturday after I finish replacing half of the lines. 3 of them were collapsed from the inside, a few of them had some restrictors in the lines? I didn't put those into the new lines but I did keep them, just in case.So far, things are looking up! I'll merge/link all of these threads into my master thread later today. Thank you for all of your help! Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Good man I had a hard time finding the mark on the crank too. there was a super tiny little mark I went off of, it was right... lucked out... Quote Link to comment
bmacster Posted June 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Good man I hard a hard time finding the mark on the crank too. there was a super tiny little mark I went off of, it was right... lucked out... You know.. I saw that little mark, about 5 degrees right of what my mark is... I'll have to check that on Saturday when I work on it next. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Time it first, see what happens. Z24 is about 5degrees advanced. If it runs fine, cold and warmmed up I might just leave it there. If it runs like ass, then maybe change it.. I don't think it'd run well with the cam timing off a tooth timed correctly. let us know mang... Course I won't be back till monday :rofl: CANBY!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
bmacster Posted June 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 Video of the truck running. http://youtu.be/elneDq6fBX8 HAVE FUN AT CANBY! Super jealous! Quote Link to comment
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