drive line Qs.

[moparvwfreak]

my 620 is in desperate need of a carrier bearing. i was given a complete drive line out of a 240SX but it was from an auto car. could i use that bearing and isolator in my truck or am i being stupid? if it would work how hard ar e the bearings to replace or should i have a shop deal with it.

 

i owuld be dropping the DL myself. while its out should i just slam a couple ujoints in while its out???

 

thanks guys. i do appreciate all teh hard work and info accumulated here.

[datzenmike]

The actual bearing almost never wears out. After all it has almost no stress on it and just supports the shaft inside a rubber donut. The rubber donut is another story. It will rot out and shred apart alowing the drive shaft to wobble around. If you remove the drive shaft, take the donut off and examine it. Spin the outer race on the bearing. It should spin easily and freely without tight spots. There should be no play or looseness except in the rotational direction. Strange noises are far more likely to be associated with a worn, damaged or dry U-joint.

 

You would have to remove the large nut that holds the flange on and use a puller to remove the bearing. Even if the bearing fits, why re-use an old bearing from a 240sx (or anything else)??? Before I would go to all that bother, I would make damn sure the carrier bearing is bad! If the rubber donut is OK, chances are the U-joints are old anyway and it would be worth while to replace them first.

 

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=2357

[moparvwfreak]

well i am a broke bastage right now hence why i asked. i KNOW the donut is shot and i have a bad feeling the bearing its self is not the best either. i am getting a bad click from right behind my seat under load. right where the bearing sits. i will most likely replace all the u-joints as well. i just figured i would ask if it would work as teh bearing and rubber are decent ont eh 240 shaft i have. looks like i will be doing some work on the datto soon. damnit! i really need this rig NOW! everything else i own is either broken or slightly illegal.

[datzenmike]

Dude, totally understand. Rebuilt my 521 motor back in the '70. Gasket, rings and rod bearings were all I could afford. The mains were worn down into the copper? backing. My old '68 510 was abandoned in the field so I stripped the mains out of it... they weren't as bad, so I used them.

[moparvwfreak]

yeah so thats where i am at. autohausaz has the parts i need but its gonna be somewhere around $160 to get teh parts. 3 ujoints, the trans seal and the carrier bearing. then another $50 to have ti installed. anyone got a good driveshaft with good bearing out of a truck they are parting??? CHEAP!!???

[moparvwfreak]

well i got the parts that i needed but i think i screwed up the threaded part of the shaft. i forgot to undent the nut and stripped the last 3 threads which in turn screwed the nut. i hope the new bearing has a new nut and washer. maybe not. and yes the carrier bearing is SHOT. ithas massive play in it. also i am not able to get the u-joints out. they are rusted in place. any ideas before i start searching out a new shaft??? also would a 720 shaft work??? i am hopeing it would as i may have to head out to the yard and see what i can find.

[yello620]

We must assume that you took the c-clips off the u-joint caps.. Right?

 

Have a hard time believing that the caps are that rusted. I have done hundreds of u-joints over the years and haven't found one yet that would not bulge. You simply need a bigger hammer.

 

Jason

[moparvwfreak]

We must assume that you took the c-clips off the u-joint caps.. Right?

 

Have a hard time believing that the caps are that rusted. I have done hundreds of u-joints over the years and haven't found one yet that would not bulge. You simply need a bigger hammer.

 

Jason

 

yes i took the clips off. i have all 12 sitting in the bed of my truck. i spent 12 an hour beating on one with a hammer and socket and got it to move about a 16th of an inch. thats it. the rest... not a chance so far. i am gonna spray it with PB in the morning BEFORE i attempt to fix my dryer. i give up. i am really getting tired of fixing everything everyday. i guess i will be driving my passat for longer than i expected. i was hopeing to get the datsun running tomorrow but i guess htat wont happen.

[datzenmike]

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The hammer in the picture is just to show where to hit it without damaging the drive shaft tube. I used a 4 lb mini sledge hammer. Just hold in your hand and give 2-3 whacks and it (joint) will move sideways toward the hammer as you drive the shaft the other way. Don't use sockets for taking appart. Harder to explain clearly than to do.

[ggzilla]

I have a slightly rusty Datsun driveshaft that I cannot get the Ujoints out of.

 

Many 1973-up Datsun driveshafts have "non-replaceable" U-joints. Meaning they are glued in. You can still get them out usually...

[fastdadd]

my old blazer the u joints were glued in with injected plastic i beat on those for days trying to get them out and when i realized it i just added some heat they just fell out...dont know if datsun ever did this way but a small amount of heat cant hurt

[moparvwfreak]

i never thought about heat. might be something that could help. i will also try the hammer method. we'll see how it goes.

[datzenmike]

The 620/720s were as described and do come apart, just don't be afraid to hit it hard. Hit the thick part of the yoke, Whatever you do don't hit the hollow drive shaft tube.

 

My old '72 B-210 looked like a press had pushed a square drift into the round opening the U joints ends fit into. The metal was displaced and there was absolutely no way to get them out. Got a whole d/s at the wrecker's. Have hammered out GM ones with the plastic. That was a surprise, cheap bastards. The new one had the C clips, and they had a place for them. What did they save 7 cents???

[moparvwfreak]

well i went out to hopefully get a DL out of another truck but it wouldn't come out. i forgot my 12mm open wrench plus it was a shorter front section. which is what i need. so... short of that i went to Nissan and ordered new nuts for the carrior bearing. $3.00 each. so i got 2. should be here in about 2 weeks or so. 10 business days. so hopefully in those 10 dyas or so i can fix what i screwed up and maybe get the ujoints swapped.

[moparvwfreak]

THE HAMMER METHOD WORKED GREAT!!!!!! U-joints are out and ready to be replaced. i found i had one REALLY bad u-joint and the rest were ok but since i didn't know which one i figured i would replace them all. i also was able to press off the carrier bearing so all i am waiting on now is the new nut to hold it in place. i also figured out how i can fix my screwup. i will file down the first 3 threads, the screwed up ones, which are outside the nut anyway and then thread on the new nut. that way if all goes well i will ahve that working good soon enough.

[datzenmike]

Ratsun way to go!!!

 

Imagine paying a mechanic $60/hr to do this easy stuff.

[moparvwfreak]

my trans guy quoted me $45 to press the carrior off and back on. IF i brought the drive line down. i was totally prepaired to do it BUT i decided to have a hand at it myself. a 2 jaw puller worked wonders after i cut the nasty crap isolator off the old bearing. oh and carquest can get teh proper bearing. the funniest part of the part... is the factory NISSAN part # on it :D