L20B Fuel Pump Spacer/Insulator

[difrangia]

I need some more info to progress on the top end rebuild on my recently acquired 620. It was almost a mortal battle, but I finally got her to give up the cylinder head. Doanted a bit of hide from both forearms and a couple of knuckles. I did finally get the head/intake/exhaust unit off as a unit. Hardest part was removing the air conditioning system and getting the exhaust lead-out disconnected from mainfold. Actually had to saw the lead-out pipe in half bout 4" down from the manifold. Bloddy sucker was rock-solid stuck in the manifold. Hopin' I can apply some heat and get the shorty section out of the manifold and weld the two pieces back together. The pipe seems pretty solid and could be re-used if reconnected by welding. Can someone recommend a source for the leadout pipe? The truck is a March '78 manufacture date.

 

  My actual question for the post relates to the fuel pump. The little beast had an electric fuel pump due to the dealer add-on air conditioning. I'm switching back to a mechanical pump. The eccentric was missing from the cam sprocket but I acquired one from a forum member. I discovered today that I'll need a spacer/insulator between the fuel pump and the head casting. If someone can tell me where they might be available or supply one, I'd greatly appreciate it. Just let me know price & shipping details in an off-forum message. Another option is for me to make one which I have the capability if necessary. I'd need to know the thickenss. I did a bit of searching on the forum and did catch the thickenss of 1/4" in one post. I do have some phenolic stock if fabricating one becomes necessary. From my research it appears that the spacer part number is possibly: 16420-21001

 

  Also the online parts sheet and the literature with the new fuel pump show what's called a protector that I don't have. It appears to be a sheet metal strap on the pump inlet side and part number is: 17060-B9800. What does this protecrt from and is it necessary?  I got all the items to do the valve job online from a firm called Classicgarage. All of the parts appear to be manufactured in Japan and many are in old dog-eared boxes. Full rebuild gasket set, eight valves, fuel pump, fan-clutch water pump, distrubitor cap & rotor, fuel filter, air filter element, and two oil filters ran me $300. including shipping half way across the country. I checked a local parts store and a set of valves was $160. Did I get a decent deal on the parts??

 

Thanks

Steve

 

[datzenmike]

Steve I just measured my phenolic spacer. It has the thin gaskets still on it and as I plan to reuse it shortly I didn't want to tear them taking them off. The spacer and both gaskets are exactly 0.25" making the spacer about 0.20" thick.

 

16420-21001 is correct for the spacer.

17099-21002 gasket for above, 2 required

[Sealik]

 

Full rebuild gasket set, eight valves, fuel pump, fan-clutch water pump, distrubitor cap & rotor, fuel filter, air filter element, and two oil filters ran me $300. including shipping half way across the country. I checked a local parts store and a set of valves was $160. Did I get a decent deal on the parts??

 

Thanks

Steve

 

Not too bad of a price, all relative to locale..... availability.

110 bucks here for something similar to this 'style' of OE Nikki pump. 

 

 

You could make that spacer out of wood and or etc.

Shit.....I've got purple heartwood isolators next to my SUs...no problemos...lol

[Radiant-Designer]

 I discovered today that I'll need a spacer/insulator between the fuel pump and the head casting. If someone can tell me where they might be available or supply one, I'd greatly appreciate it. Just let me know price & shipping details in an off-forum message. Another option is for me to make one which I have the capability if necessary. I'd need to know the thickenss. I did a bit of searching on the forum and did catch the thickenss of 1/4" in one post. I do have some phenolic stock if fabricating one becomes necessary. From my research it appears that the spacer part number is possibly: 16420-21001

Is there a NEED for this spacer? mine has been running without it for some time.

[DanielC]

The spacer keeps the fuel pump cooler, by not conducting cylinder head heat to the fuel pump.  It also affects the fuel pressure.  If the lack of a spacer allows the fuel pump lever to contact part of the fuel pump body, other problems could occur.

 

Is it necessary?  Obviously not, if your engine runs without it.  But if you are using a fuel pump designed to have it, probably a good idea to get one, if you do not have one.

[datsunaholic]

Running without the spacer tends to result in bent pump arms.  Some of the cheap ones the arm bends quite easily. 

[Radiant-Designer]

Actually I found out mine does have a spacer, it was just blending in with all kinds of RTV sealer and oil and other grime

[nismo_tuner125]

Hello,

 

I am new to the forums, but have browsed around here for a little while over the last few months.If reviving old threads is frowned upon here, I apologize.

 

In any case, I have started working on a 1973 510 with an L20B since the beginning of this year. I changed out the mechanical fuel pump just this past Sunday and used the included spacer. The last pump did not have a spacer but ran fine for a long time. So after reading that using it is a good idea, I did. The car went 200 miles with the new pump and I made it home. The following day the car dies, I thought from running out of fuel. Long story short, I get towed home, remove the pump, and find that the shaft that the pump arm sits on has backed out of its groove. I'm getting a new one from O'Reilly tomorrow. Is this just a bad pump?

 

You can see how much shorter the new (bottom) pump's arm extends, plus the extra distance with the spacer. Thoughts? 

 

Thanks in advance.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5pPsASNEknTVnlZSlV0M0ZMNDA/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5pPsASNEknTMnU4bTNZMVpOams/view?usp=sharing

 

 

[datzenmike]

This is a stock fuel pump, good quality and lasts pretty much forever.

 

 

 

If you can, take yours back and get it replaced, it's a piece of crap. Better would be to get an old pump out of a wrecking yard. I would trust a good used part over some of the stuff they sell today. New they are over $100 at the dealer. Wrecking yard... ??? $25-$30???

[nismo_tuner125]

Hopefully the replacement will last long enough for me to acquire a stock pump. I never knew the OEM ones were so robust.

[datzenmike]

Original equipment usually is.

[nismo_tuner125]

As far as ordering parts from the dealer, where do you go for that? Call a local dealer, or one specific to NOS? I've never ordered parts through Nissan before.

[sebpv]

Rockauto, ebay?

[DatsunHiLife]

http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-pl620-truck-parts.html

[nismo_tuner125]

Thanks for the sites. I actually found a Nikki fuel pump from a seller named atomboys on ebay. Coming out of China though, so a bit of a gamble on legitimacy.

[Sealik]

Thanks for the sites. I actually found a Nikki fuel pump from a seller named atomboys on ebay. Coming out of China though, so a bit of a gamble on legitimacy.

 

And?

Is it a NOS Nikki fuel pump?

 

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/GENUINE-NIKKI-510-610-BLUEBIRD-STANZA-A10-PA10-L18-2000-L20B-ENGINE-FUEL-PUMP-/170868904982?hash=item27c8949416

 

 

 

 

Shall be needing one ASAP

[nismo_tuner125]

I believe it is NOS.

[banzai510(hainz)]

try partstrain.

I cant belive you got to get it out of China.

 

don't want to hut Mikes Feelings the the Blackstone ones made in mexico are OK.

 

I like stock OEM myself and run them. but did run a 30dol Backstone one and was OK then when I rebuilt my motor used all Nissan OEM type stuff from Defunt Mr-Auto-Parts.com which carried all jap spec stuff.

 

input outputs are different for different cars as you notice the locations on the inner/outer tubes.

[Sealik]

try partstrain.

I cant belive you got to get it out of China.

 

don't want to hut Mikes Feelings the the Blackstone ones made in mexico are OK.

 

I like stock OEM myself and run them. but did run a 30dol Backstone one and was OK then when I rebuilt my motor used all Nissan OEM type stuff from Defunt Mr-Auto-Parts.com which carried all jap spec stuff.

 

input outputs are different for different cars as you notice the locations on the inner/outer tubes.

 

 Limited options north of the border.......$100 bucks Canadian for a generic (pressed together) Airtex pump from Partstrain.

Cost me 92 for the Nikki from Thailand.

 

The tops on those Nikki style pumps can be rotated if the inlet/outlets need to be 'lined' up a little better.

[nismo_tuner125]

My car has died a couple of times after driving at freeway speeds and then going full throttle. The engine completely loses power and starts back up after turning it over a few times. Then everything is fine again. Happened a couple of times in the last few days. Does this sound like the pump isn't keeping up with the demand?

 

I can't say if I've had this problem or not with the last pump since I just recently discovered there was a bolt underneath my pedal that was limiting its travel.

[datzenmike]

Replace your fuel filter. Costs $4 and if doesn't fix the problem no harm done.

 

This is a classic description if a part plugged filter. Under high demand the engine uses gas faster than the pump can suck it through a clogged filter and the carb runs dry. It restarts easily an idles.

 

 

Possibly the brass screen at the carburetor inlet is blocked with foreign material.

 

Possibly the float needle or float is stuck or the float inside the carb is set too high. These are in order of difficulty to check and fix. Try the filter first.

[hobospyder]

Also I'm sure that bolt was to keep you from going beyond the capabilities of the carb and to keep the carb from getting stuck open because the gears went to far. Might want to put it back on but that's just me

[nismo_tuner125]

Just ordered a filter a couple of days ago. It still looks clean, but it's been in there for years so it's probably time anyway. Can these clog up and still appear clean?

 

I actually put the bolt back in, just lower. Without the bolt, the pedal did want to pull the throttle open just a bit beyond what the carb allowed for.

[bilzbobaggins]

Bumping this up to add to the topic. Just got my 521/L16 put back together. My fuel pump that had been on the truck since I bought the truck 5 1/2 years ago has gone bad. The only other fuel pump I have on hand is off of a 75 620 L20b. Slapped it on and works. So great hearing my truck running and so well and smooth.

Here's my thoughts and musings.

The first one was a crappy aftermarket pump. I also discovered there was no phelonic spacer. Might be part of the failure plus the general cheapness of the part. From doing searches, I have found that the L20b one should pump a little bit more that the 32/36 needs and possible overpower the needle/seat and the float due to me having no return line. The L20b pump is of the seven screw variety. It has its spacer.

I read a couple posts saying the top could be taken off and rotated to get the outlet placed in a better position. This was posted in regards to a 5 bolt top nikki pump. The only markings I have found so far is the name AMPCO on the very top(in my rush to fire my truck up I never cleaned it up and the lower part is covered in oily funk :blush:). So has anyone rotated the top of one of these pumps?  I could get a 90 degree outlet for it to make the inlet less awkward.

Are the differences in the L16 -L20b pumps in the curve of the tang or could one increase the size of the spacer to lessen the amount that the pump is pumping? 

 

Edit: found out the spacer is for all year L20b's.  Must be the arm that's different.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

Jef

Pics will be up in a moment. Typing on computer and using phone for pics.

 

Old pump.  Notice gobs of rtv plus the lack of spacer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

L20b pump.

 

 

Inlet/outlet in less than ideal spots

 

[datzenmike]

Pump may be from another L series. The 620/710/610 has a fuel filter much farther back so the inlet to the pump is facing the way yours is.