1984 Datsun Maxima 910 Project.

[ArchetypeDatsun]

The one in Long Beach is un-sellable(in state).

Why so, I thought taking the wheels off was a turn off it made the car!

[datsunfreak]

Why so

 

Betting those carbs don't pass smog...   B)

[captaingamez]

yeah, I am guessing that as well, I think you COULD get it to pass in AZ, their pretty stupid here. maybe not though. It would honestly not be that dificult to put the stock EFI back in.

 

But this is probably why it is only $1300.

[Z-train]

Betting those carbs don't pass smog...   B)

Seller is responsible for it passing SMOG.

[_UNKNOWN]

Hahaha I can finally post! I told myself when I was in TRO77 more and couldn't post I would find the only other 910 enthusiast in Arizona, considering I had lurched this thread for quite some time.

 

Awesome stuff Derek and the interior is turning out great! I think once I get a mil spec chem suit I'll take the interior out of my silver spider car.

[captaingamez]

HAHA, Thanks Henry.

[Fat510]

Betting those carbs don't pass smug...   B)

 

[captaingamez]

New headliner cut tonight.

 

(yes I realize the hole needs to be larger.)

 

I am getting very excited to see this material in the car.

[captaingamez]

IT GOT SEWN TOGETHER FOR $20!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

[captaingamez]

Thanks to Mhub91 and DatsunMotorSports, I have a bunch of new dash parts that came in the mail today, including an uncracked instrument and passenger dash pad, and instrument cluster bezel.

 

[I'm BLUE]

I've been following...

It's looking good captain .. keep it up !!

$20 ... That's cheap to get done ............. :blink: :thumbup:

Those extra interior bits look to be nice shape.

[captaingamez]

Thanks man, it is shaping up really nicely.

[captaingamez]

I got the new foam installed the other day as well. Right now I am stuck slowly removing all the nasty shit you see at the edge. The previous owner thought it was an awesome idea to use black silicone or some other type of semi-hardening BS to seal a hopelessly leaking rear windshield. As you all know we have the fix for that sitting here, but the edges all need to be clean as hell, and there is glue on that horizontal edge, because, yes, the headliner wraps around the C pillar and under the windshield seal. Fun.

 

That beautiful factory color I will restore it to some day.

 

Yummy wiring.

[]2eDeYe]

That new headliner is gonna be nice. :cool:

[Alchemist]

Hi Captain,

 

Great progress you're making!  I have a 1983 810 Maxima with only 67K on it.  The heater core went out prior to my purchase of the car.  I was able to acquire what may be the last OEM heater core from Japan - which surprised my Nissan Dealer when it arrived!  He said it couldn't hurt to try ordering it.  It certainly hurt my pocketbook - ouch!!

 

My question is, would you have photos of the dash area where the AC/heater core box resides please?  Also, if you have photos of the removal because I'm not looking forward to replacing my heater core.

 

Thanks!  Your car will be awesome when it's completed I'm sure of that!  

 

Ernie

[captaingamez]

You should find those pictures in the earlier pages. That is awesome about the heater core, How much did the OEM 910 core cost you?  The one from a Nissan pickup like 1997 fits almost perfectly, the only difference is that it is a little thinner, but OEM is always the way to go if possible.

 

I would love to see pictures of what probably IS the last heater core for these cars from Nissan available. Did it come with a weird date on the bottom of the part number sticker? What is that date?

[Alchemist]

Hi Cap,

 

I'll need to go up in rafters to pull it down and have someone take a photo of it.  

 

When I saw that you were able to use a '97 truck heater core for just a great price. I paid $185.  List was $205.  At least I got a little discount from them.

 

What will you be doing for suspension?   I had some custom "touring springs" made by a manufacturer not too far from where I live.  I had mentioned it on here some time ago.  A little pricey but I wanted it done correctly.  I also went with Toyota MR2 front strut cartridges to give me more travel and not worry about bottoming out the shock.  The only mod you need to do is drill out the locknut cap that retains the cartridge.  What I mean by drilling out the cap is that the factory cap has a "D" shaped hole because the factory replacement cartridge has a the shaft machined at the very end so that you can tighten the nut without having to use vise grips to keep the shaft from spinning when you tighten the nut.

 

It rides great and when I installed the springs it made such a significant difference in handling.   I didn't even need to replace the sway bars - though I went with a bigger bar in the rear and kept the stock one in front.   I like it this way!  

 

Ernie

[captaingamez]

Wow that is awesome info man. Who did you have make the springs? you mind sharing your spring rates? I am not sure what I am doing for suspension yet. I am looking into adapting the stuff from 240sx, but havent gone too far down that path yet. The interior is taking all my time, haha.

 

What sway bars fit? 280zx? where did you end up finding those, lol.

 

Honestly $185 for possibly the last heater core actually from Nissan, thats not a bad deal at all. Mine was cheaper, but you get to tell the "shipped from Japan" story, and have the Nissan packaging (get that date code!!). Plus the fact that it fits exactly is nice too. the truck one fits almost exactly, you just have to fill in that little extra space with the foam. But I would have sprung the $185 if I could have found it.

 

I would love to see some pictures of your car!, You should start a build thread man, seems the 910 Maximas are growing around here.

[Alchemist]

Hi Cap,

 

I'm old school being 60 years young and have to ask assistance to have photos taken - LOL!

 

The guy who did my springs has some sort of spec book for which to gauge the diameter of the spring, rate etc.,   Having never done springs for my type of vehicle he had to experiment.  So he made two sets because the first set of springs did not lower my car very much.  He was concerned about losing shock travel.   The second set is what's on the car and I presumed it would settle a little, which it did but not to my satisfaction.  Also, there were too many coils.  When the strut was installed back onto the car and weight of the front end, the coils would bang against each other.  Initially it looked like there was enough spacing between the coils prior to installing them.

 

I eventually cut a coil off the front springs.   Now it sits the way I want it and not coil banging - everything rides tight!  It handles like a slot car.  The limitation is the stock tires.  

 

The back is a little raked which I like and also doesn't bottom out when you have 4 passengers and stuff in the trunk.  It looks lowered but not "slammed" and i can pull into most driveways without having to enter at an extreme angle.  

 

FYI - there is no factory camber adjustment, front or rear!  The only adjustment is front toe.  You can get camber adjustment bolts for it.  What is interesting, considering how much lower my car sits in the front, is that my camber is only off by 1/2 degree in the front - you couldn't readily tell by looking at the car.   

 

The name of the spring manufacturer is:    

 

Valley Spring Works

340 Industrial Way  Dixon, CA 95620
(707) 678-3944

Owner's name is Bill

 

I'm not sure if I'm gonna keep the car - though it's very clean with only 67K on it.  I'm too old to be crouched down for a long time and I haven't had any luck with finding someone that would be willing to assist me in replacing the heater core at a reasonable rate.  

 

My door panels on the front and rear passenger sides are perfect, yet the drivers door panel and the left rear door panel have tears in them, most likely from a little dog.  I'm thinking of replacing the upper vinyl portion with Carbon Fiber wrap.  I also replaced my steering wheel with one from a 1977 Datsun 810.  

 

Here's a link to the front and rear sway bars:

http://www.andysautosport.com/nissan/1981_1984_maxima/suspension/sway_bars/addco/

 

 

I need to stop now!  I just realized that I'm thread drifting here and I should refrain from distracting you from your own progress.  My apologies!

 

Ernie

[captaingamez]

Thanks for all the info Ernie, No need to worry about distracting me!, haha. That info will come in very handy when I do the suspension, which is next, after I replace the radiator.

 

New Updates for the project:

A few tiny creases but overall, it looks excellent. It will likely shrink over time as well, so this should be perfect. I have never touched any type of headliner in my life before, so I am quite happy.

 

I started by gluing in the sunroof, I should have taken a picture, I had only about 1/8 inch of space between each file clip around it, there were 53 in total. I removed them this morning after the glue was %95 dry, and then installed the trim seal. I glued it in with 3M Super Yellow Trim Adhesive 08090, USE GLOVES, ITS NASTY, AND YOU DO NOT WANT TO GET IT ON/HAVE TO GET IT OFF YOUR HANDS.

 

Note: Have a whole crap ton of binder clips on hand. when gluing, no space in between them. I have at least 100+ sitting here.

[captaingamez]

I used the thick trim seal for the sun roof. But I think I am going to have to use the thinner seal for the door edges I think, being that it is wider, and some of the door edges are quite thick.

[Eagle_Adam]

that headliner looks GREAT!

[captaingamez]

Thanks man, It is fully installed and glued in now. I installed the trim seals on teh edges as well. I ended up using the smaller trim edge seal as the pinch weld was a bit wide in a few places. I will get some more pics up soon. It looks even better now that its a bit tighter, and once the rear glass is in it will be perfect. I am working on installing the rear window with the cord trick. So, mucho updates will be coming soon.

[Alchemist]

Hi Cap,

 

Looking great!  

 

You can use a hair dryer to help "tighten up" the headliner to see if if will tighten up any further.  Just a tip from a late buddy of mine who was a custom upholsterer for 30 years that did all the upholstery on the cars I restored.

 

Just don't put the hair dryer too close.  8 to 10 inches is fine and keep it moving.

 

Ernie

[captaingamez]

Good info man, I will try that in the back area.