walpal Posted May 21, 2013 Report Share Posted May 21, 2013 I was tired of smelling gas every time I drove my car so I did some research. I found the DQ article and used that as a starting point. While harvesting some struts from a 280 ZX I poked around and noticed the fuel filler set up so I grabbed it and started trying to figure out a way to make it work on the 510. Version 1.0 was just cutting the tube off close to the filler door and using what was good from the stock 510 rubber hose since it was cracked and leaking at that end. I did have to drill some holes in the body to line up with the stock ZX mounting points. This was OK but the hose was crap and kept cracking and the angles the hose had to follow weren't helping. I got some fuel proof hose from Pegasus but it was way to stiff to make the necessary bends. So back to PnP to for more 280 fuel fillers ( it appears that not just the ZX have this type of filler). They have a bellows type of shape on the lower part of the tube like a "flexi straw" so I figured it would lend itself to some gentle manipulation. Well it is sort of flexible . With a vice and a long chunk of steel bar and some muscle you can get it move. You want to bend a little and check your progress constantly. I got it pretty close and called it done. I trimmed about 2 of the bellows and the end to get to this point. The fuel proof hose was able to compensate for any minor misalignment. One thing to be aware of is the gas cap for this set up needs to be the stock Datsun item so you might want to grab that at the JY. I was not able to find a generic screw in cap that works. Not that one doesn't exist someplace, I just was not able to find one. The stock gas cap is an exterior locking cap and too big to fit in the 510 location. So just take it apart and get down to the plugging part of the cap. I ran just this on v1.0 and it works fine but is a little tough to grab so I bought a cheapo generic cap and added a disc (filed a square hole to mimic the hole on the cap) with some bent up ears to fit in the slots for added physical connection, drilled a hole in the plug and bolted it all together with a 1/4" carriage bolt. Now it looks like a normal everyday gas cap. 1 Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted May 21, 2013 Report Share Posted May 21, 2013 Sweet write-up. Thanks for contributing :) Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 I like all the pictures. That makes following what you did easy. Thanks. Quote Link to comment
walpal Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 Thanks, hope this helps others with this problem. I didn't like seeing the extra holes when I fuel up so I made a cover to hide them. Looks a little nicer. Will paint it someday. ;) 1 Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 That looks nice. Quote Link to comment
walpal Posted December 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 UPDATE: Since I made the modifications a few issues have come up. The gas cap I got from the junk yard was missing the seal that is crucial to keep gas from pissing down the side of the car when whipping left turns. Found one on return trip to JY and now all nice and dry below filler door. Make sure you get it or search for an appropriate o-ring (made of something fuel proof). I found that the fuel hose had cracked or split right where the upper hose clamp was located. Probably caused by a combination of the hose being very ridged, hose I.D. and filler O.D. difference being to large to overcome and me over tightening trying to force the issue. This might not be a problem with a more flexible hose but be aware. My fix was to get a preformed piece of exhaust pipe with 2.25" I.D. and O.D. ends (little short piece for slip fitting exhaust pipes together) trim a little off both ends and about 2 bellows of the filler and JB weld the crap out of it. So far so good. Also, this setup will not let you hang the pump nozzle and walk away, you have to hold the nozzle while you fill up. Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted December 4, 2013 Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 Looks good. Just trying to help out the next person searching, here is a link to another option: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/58626-how-to-new-fuel-filler-mod-for-a-510/ I hope you don't mind walpal, I'm just trying to make searching for ideas easier for the next person... Quote Link to comment
walpal Posted December 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 No problemo. I am totally onboard with making life easier (and safer) for Datsun folks. I figure someday the stock unit will be repro'd and people will think "why did they go to all this trouble?" Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 Hmm.... Good thought, I will post up that question over on the Reproduction 510 Sheet Metal thread , and see if Dave has thought of getting those reproduced.... Quote Link to comment
07FlyingWagon Posted December 15, 2013 Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 Just curious how flexible was the fill tube portion that you pulled from the local PnP? And nice write up!! Quote Link to comment
07FlyingWagon Posted December 15, 2013 Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 And Klassic, thanks so much for X-posting these !! Quote Link to comment
walpal Posted December 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2013 The metal portion takes some effort to bend. I used a thick steel bar about 18" long and 1" wide inserted about 3" into the open end to get it to bend. The closer the diameter of the bar to the I.D. of the filler the better since it should maintain the shape better. A longer bar would give you more leverage and make it easier. The trick is to not distort the "roundness" of the filler while bending or squeezing the part in the vice too much. You can get away with some damage on the part you will cut off though so don't cut it until you've started bending and got it close. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 Here is another method: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/26256-codys-green-69-510-4-door/page-19?do=findComment&comment=1024017 Okay, so long time no post lol, decided to tackle making a new filler neck for the dime, old one was pissing fuel.... Things youll need, 240sx filler neck 1 7/8" OD to 2.25"ID exhaust reducer, 240 and 510 use diff diameter hose 2.25" ID curved tailpipe 2.25" ID fuel hose 5/8" to 1/2" reducer for vent line, i used a copper pipe 1/2" ID fuel hose hose clamps Cut the filler neck pipe off just before the curve, trip the shroud around the cap area down to around 1/8" to 1/4", just enough removed to be able to fit it thru the hole from in the trunk to the gas door pocket. Weld the reducer onto the filler neck like so. Rather complicated compared to some, but i holesawed the center out of the factory 510 fuel cap holder to match the OD of the filler neck just behind the shroud, i think cut the plate in half and used it as a sort of "split ring retainer" for the filler neck. stick filler thru the body, then half at a time slide the plate peices onto the filler and lock em down with the screws. Now that the filler is secured in the body, cut the ends off the curved tailpipe so you have a useable slight bend peice that fits into the 2.25"ID fuel hose. Cut sections of the fuel tube to connect the filler to the intermediate section, then to the tank. I used an exhaust expander to stretch the hose just a bit to be able to slide it over the exhaust expander welded to the filler, intermediate pipe had no issue. The vent line on a 510 is 5/8", a 240SX is 1/2", use your reducer in the hoses and get it connected up. I went hose clamp crazy because im paranoid. Thats the ridiculously short and simple explanation of how I did it... Oics. 1 Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 I just noticed that Summit Racing carries a bunch of different filler necks. There are 6 pages of "fuel filler neck" related parts. I've been going through the pages when I get time. Here is one I found; It might have too much curvature to it, but it's a Dorman product. Part number: 577- 976 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-577-976 Quote Link to comment
07FlyingWagon Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 I suppose with Summit's awesome return policy, and their close location to where I live, I'd be willing to buy one and try it out on my rebuild - that's the final missing piece from my equation is the filler neck like seen above! Now if I only had the time....... Quote Link to comment
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