Dawa Posted May 5, 2013 Report Share Posted May 5, 2013 howdy folks. so this upgrade/swap is pretty straight forward. Jason (beebani) offers instructions and is quick to answer any questions via email. but for the less technical savvy, and to provide another thread/example, heres how i did it. also, i ran into a few snags along the way so i want the next guy to be better equipped than me. if you are performing this swap please read this how to in its entirety (at least once) before accomplishing it in order to familiarize yourself with the swap. majority of steps are in sequential order, but some steps may be accomplished before/after others. tools: jack jack stands (2) torque wrench capable of 72-87 ft lb flat tip screw driver sockets (mm): 17, 18/191, 26 pliers 10mm flare nut wrench wrenches (mm): 17, 18/19, 26 recommended: safety glasses, mallet (note 1: nissan caliper bolts are 18mm, beebanis are 19mm) consumables: bearing grease brake fluid (dot 3+, i prefer dot 4) aerosal brake cleaner shop/paper towels Parts: calipers: Z32 (90 300zx) aluminum, 26mm -matching brake pads rotors: from isuzu rodeo, rodeo sport, 2002 honda passport (brakebest from oreilly part number 980081RGS $32.99) rubber brake lines: DO NOT USE PRONTO ROTORS OR ROTORS WITH PART NUMBER 31310, THEY WILL NOT CLEAR YOUR HUB! (SEE PHOTOS) recommended: caliper rebuild kit (link in references) references: caliper ID: http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm caliper rebuild: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/rebuilding-300zx-z32-calipers.html DO NOT DISASSEMBLE CALIPER HALVES caliper rebuild kit: http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=4_34_88&products_id=715 z32 fsm: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/300zx/1990/br.pdf --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- rebuilding/preparing your Z32 calipers: refer to references for rebuilding & caliper build up/loading Drum to disc brake how to: 1, pull your ebrake, chalk your rear wheels & put your trans into 1st/park. 2, break torque on your wheels, raise forward end of vehicle, support with jackstands in manufacturers recommended safety stand points, remove lug nuts, remove wheels. 3, remove the hub: -remove hub dust cap -remove cotter pin, -remove castellated cover, -remove hub locking nut (26mm) remove washer, and pull the entire hub off. 4, remove top & bottom return springs (idk the method here, refer to fsm...) 5, remove screw from brake line 6, remove (4) 17mm bolts from brake disc 7, clean seating surface of bracket area of rust/dirt/fluid/etc, wipe off wheel spindle 8, install bracket with the ears facing rearward and the spacing inboard (towards engine) -hand tighten (4) 17mm bolts, then torque to XX-XX in a criss cross pattern (example: top left, bottom right, top right, bottom left) 9, prepare hub for reinstall by doing the following: -apply new grease to the cleaned wheel spindle -clean/remove old/dirty grease from interior/exterior of hub, races, & bearing -inspect bearing and races for gouges, nicks, wear, etc (replace if necessary) 10, apply new grease to bearing, races, & pack hub with new grease 11, install hub 12, install washer, install hub locking nut hand tight 13, torque locking nut to XX-XX ft lb 14, spin hub clockwise and counter clockwise a few rotations [recommend at least 10 each] ensuring freedom of movement 15, repeat steps 13 and 14, then LOOSEN locking nut 40-70 degrees (counterclockwise) 16, check hub for freedom of movement by spinning, clockwise & counterclockwise, install castellated XXX, install cotter pin, install hub dust cap 17, take the time to clean up the lugs and surrounding area of any bearing grease, etc. 18, slip the rotor over the lugs 19, install caliper to bracket by threading bolts in finger tight. 20, torque (2) 18/19mm caliper bolts to 72-87 ft lbs 21, PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED (SNAGS)1, correct rotor, wrong fitment!? in an attempt to make this swap more economical, i got the less expensive rotors (rockauto) by pronto, part number 31310. the rotors would not easily slide over the lugs: 2, brake nut wont spin!? so i was able to loosen the rubber brake line from the hardline, but once removed the flare nut would not spin freely like it is supposed to. any force applied to it threatened to torque/spin/rotate the entire hardline. 3, brake nut wont even loosen and strips! so with my flare nut wrench on the flare nut & my wrench on the rubber part, i still somehow managed to strip the flare nut. a quick oreillyauto.com search revealed that they have very affordable premade lengths of steel brake line (pre flared, with flare nuts installed on both ends) Driver side hardline length approximately 52" passenger side approx 36" 2 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.