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1600 water pump rebuild or replace ?


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I haven't made any calls yet for parts but I have that tell tail sign of antifreeze on the garage floor . The hoses look ok for stock and fan feels tight without any wobble but I'm thinking Saturday will be a work on the car day. Portland area parts dealers locations If I opt for a rebuild ? There used to be a good shop for a rebuild / repair of mine that I will check out too. Thanks for the advice, Grant

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Nissan motors offered a very complete rebuild kit for the RL411 water pump.  I used it but I won't mention how many years ago.  Access the 410 / 411 parts manual elsewhere on this realm for part numbers.  The down side is that the impeller shaft removes to the front.  You need a three point gear puller to romove the hopefully original cast iron impeller.  It will probably break. leaving you to scrounge another cast iron impeller [good luck] or use a stamped steel from another water pump.  You CAN modify a 1600 roadster water pump now that you have the guts of your original or don't want to wait for the cracked impeller.  You need to take that three point gear puller and remove the RL411 water pump spinner.  Do the same to the replacement roadster water pump's spinner.  Now the tricky part.  You need acess to a hydraulic press.  insert a spacer shim into the "Exhaust" slot or remove the rear cover.  Place a large nut under the area of the shaft.  Now gently press the original spinner on to the shaft of the roadster waterpump, leaving an inch of the longer roadster shft protruding.  Pray that you have good motor mounts, you will have a scary shaft to radiator clearance.  If you carefully measure the distance betwen the original water pump spinner rear surface and the rear mounting surface of the original pump you can get an exact alignment of the water pump, alternator and crankshaft pulleys.  One inch is "good enough".

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The RockAuto website claims to have 7 waterpumps in stock for a '67 RL411 1600.

 

Edit: Hmmm... Autozone also shows them in stock... but the picture doesn't look like the one on my car.

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True observation!  Sites see "411" and can't think any further.  Remember, in a 2 year production run only slightly more than 8 thousand RL411 sedan variants [less wagons, I have no numbers] were built.  If you try to buy an intake filter listed for the RL411 you will get a hugh round one for the PL410 or 411 J engine's filter housing.

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My past water pump failure experance has been,  full on water exting the water pump maybe bearing noise and louse shaft when you grab the fan and shake it. I wanted to make shure before starting work. The antifreeze drips under the car weren't real telling.  I"m hoping with out a shakey fan, no bearing noise and  temps in the 70 /80 degs i might of just be getting over flow blow back from the radiator. I don't drive this car much but I know I have reached normal opterating temps. Sticking thermastat maybe as I cross my fingers ? might be a easyer fix. The car ran fine today bumped up the radiator and ran 20 miles or so and not a drop on the pavement after several stops, temp gauge was spot on. Could I have dodged a bullit ? or just kidding myself ? .

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Check the torque on the 4 bolts holding the fan to the spinner hub.  Early water pumps have SAE quarter inch bolts, late production and early replacements may have six millimeter bolts.  Your socket wrench will tell you which one you have.  Visually check the rivets holding the fan blades to be sure you have no imminent fractures there.  Add an overflow cannister, AKA beer can, to the overflow hose instead of letting it waste to the ground and you will probably be OK.  I used the existing hole in the left front fender where the PL411 fuel line enters the engine compartment to attach the can.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Mike, your next cold beverage is on me and it's nice sunny weather hear in Portland Oregon if you ever want to give it a try, Spring Salmon in the river 5 miles away.

 

 

Yum!  Spring Salmon, a portable smoker and some Alder wood and Apple wood chips.

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