Agent-Gambit Posted May 1, 2013 Report Share Posted May 1, 2013 What can I expect from switching from a stock carburetor too a 32/36 weber? Performance wise? And gas wise also? Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted May 2, 2013 Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 stock l16? and im assuming in a 510? small gain in horse power (moar fuel/air little more power) you will lose mpg tho.. not sure how much, i had a 32/36 on an l20b and got about 24-27 mpg maybe a little less, free way with a dogleg in 5th going about 60-65 Quote Link to comment
Toyanvil Posted May 2, 2013 Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 If you do go with one check your timing with the vacuum advance hooked up, at high RPMs some Weber 32/36 vacuum port will hold vacuum all the way to top end without backing off. If this is happening your total end timing will be way to high and you can burn a piston. I only use mechanical advance. Quote Link to comment
Agent-Gambit Posted May 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 stock l16? and im assuming in a 510? small gain in horse power (moar fuel/air little more power) you will lose mpg tho.. not sure how much, i had a 32/36 on an l20b and got about 24-27 mpg maybe a little less, free way with a dogleg in 5th going about 60-65 Sorry forgot too say I have a l20 on my 510 Quote Link to comment
Eomund Posted May 2, 2013 Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 You'll get I bit of a power upgrade. The economy will go down for low RPM driving, but I actually improved the high speed mileage 'cause I didn't have to put my foot into it as much. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted May 3, 2013 Report Share Posted May 3, 2013 You MAY lose mileage. You MAY gain it. It all depends on jetting, driving habits, but more importantly the condition of the Hitachi being replaced. I've had gains on 3 out of 4 Datsuns. Loss on one, maybe a second but not enough info to tell. But in every case I was replacing a Hitachi that leaked, were usually warped or had stripped screws, and were generally in 200,000 mile condition. I got better mileage with a 38 outlaw vs a Hitachi on one truck... should tell you how bad that Hitachi was. It wasn't even the right Hitachi either. On mine, performance always improved. However off-the-line will require different pedal discipline. You can't just mash the pedal with a 32/36. Not unless you want a stumble every time. There are ways to correct that in a Weber, but factory webers are never set right, so you get a delay. Hitachis generally didn't have that issue because the secondary was vacuum operated and won't open from idle to WOT. Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted May 3, 2013 Report Share Posted May 3, 2013 also depends on if youre going from an old, worn out carb to a brand new one. Quote Link to comment
Rocket Dog Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 Speaking of Webers, anybody ever buy from Webercarbsdirect? I'm in the market for a 32/36. I think I want a manual choke because I've heard there can be issues with the electric choke version -- but that might just be folklore. Amazon price for a 32/36 is $289, Webercarbsdirect is $200. !!! Nevermind, I re-compared the ads, the price diff is between the carb only and the carb and adapter kit. Same price from Amazon and Webercarbsdirect. Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted May 17, 2013 Report Share Posted May 17, 2013 just get them for the cheapest you can, as long as they come in full. i bought my dgev brand new from ebay, seller "allautomotive" for 192 shipped for free i 'upgraded' from an existing dgev set up to a new one because i got tired of messing with the old one and wanted to start fresh with one that was tuned/set up from the factory. buy a dgev, (E stands for electric choke) you tap into any wire that gets power when you turn the key to 'ign' the problem here is that if you turn the key to ign but dont start the car, (example, if you were just sitting in the car listening to the radio) the electric choke is still getting that power and the coil that is within the e choke will heat up and then eventually "deactivate" itself aka the choke will open. and when you actually start up the car, the choke will be open because its already been heated up so if youre in a situation where you actually needed the choke, like on a cold day, youll have start up problems. so as long as you keep that in mind youll have no problemo! Quote Link to comment
Naco1 Posted May 18, 2013 Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 just get them for the cheapest you can, as long as they come in full. i bought my dgev brand new from ebay, seller "allautomotive" for 192 shipped for free i 'upgraded' from an existing dgev set up to a new one because i got tired of messing with the old one and wanted to start fresh with one that was tuned/set up from the factory. buy a dgev, (E stands for electric choke) you tap into any wire that gets power when you turn the key to 'ign' the problem here is that if you turn the key to ign but dont start the car, (example, if you were just sitting in the car listening to the radio) the electric choke is still getting that power and the coil that is within the e choke will heat up and then eventually "deactivate" itself aka the choke will open. and when you actually start up the car, the choke will be open because its already been heated up so if youre in a situation where you actually needed the choke, like on a cold day, youll have start up problems. so as long as you keep that in mind youll have no problemo! Wow. Never thought about that. Good stuff bro. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 make sure you dont buy empi, some companies are passing them off as weber. never had empi carbs but read and heard too many issues. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 when listing to the radio one should thurn the key to ACC. I also heard of IGN modules or coils going bad on other manf cars when key is in the ON sand not the ACC mode. Heateing them up thus = failure. never heard it on Datsuns though when putting a DGV on a L20 the tall aircleaner may hit the hood and its noisier due to the type of airfilter. If your a kid it sould COOL!!!!!!!! as being older now I like the stock air cleaner and queit mufflers Quote Link to comment
Averaje Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 can anyone help with this carb cold air intake adaper at 2:49 in the video please and thank you https://vimeo.com/44244509 Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 he has a build on here i believe Quote Link to comment
greengoon Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 He he, everyone asks about that. Intake adapter is a complete custom fabrication based on a rain gutter to extension tube adapter with lots of acrylic and Bondo. Yep, you read right. Lots of fabrication and it was a P.I.T.A and I wouldn't do it again. Here is the link: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/26747-the-greengoon-build-thread/page-3 Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 Speaking of Webers, anybody ever buy from Webercarbsdirect? I'm in the market for a 32/36. I think I want a manual choke because I've heard there can be issues with the electric choke version -- but that might just be folklore. Amazon price for a 32/36 is $289, Webercarbsdirect is $200. !!! Nevermind, I re-compared the ads, the price diff is between the carb only and the carb and adapter kit. Same price from Amazon and Webercarbsdirect. I bought my carb from webercarbsdirect. I think I added some pics of it in my 620 build thread. The only downside to buying from them is the generic installation guide. Most likely the instructions will not match what you have, so you can either wing it (like I did) or find someone to walk you through it. The 32/36 fom WCD was easy to install for a first timer with no carb experience. However, I have not tuned it and can tell that it is running rich (smell gas, black plugs, ect) but I'm still to scared to try to tune it myself without having my B210 running first :P Quote Link to comment
bryant2482 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 i have better performance and milage with my 32/36. i get about 250 on a single tank and this is with a napz (about 20 miles per gallon) Quote Link to comment
travis06lly Posted June 19, 2013 Report Share Posted June 19, 2013 I have a 76 620 that I put a Weber on, is it common to have to change the jets in one just to get the truck to run right? I'm not to carburetor savy as I've never had anything with a carb on it besides this here datsun lol, Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted June 19, 2013 Report Share Posted June 19, 2013 Unless the jets are way different than the standard factory jets, no, it'll run fairly decent on stock jets. Not perfectly optimal, but it'll run well enough, as the factory jets are sufficient for a nominal fuel/air mixture. Quote Link to comment
RatVonDude Posted December 14, 2013 Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 What can I expect from switching from a stock carburetor too a 32/36 weber? Performance wise? And gas wise also? What can I expect from switching from a stock carburetor too a 32/36 weber? Performance wise? And gas wise also? Do it. The happiest day of my life was when I pulled out my piece of shit hitachi. Weber has more bite, same mpg. I love the manual choke also. Those hitachi's feel like they were designed for the status quo granny driver, mine anyway. Quote Link to comment
H5WAGON Posted December 14, 2013 Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 If you can resist the secondary's ......Biggest difference you can tell when they open compared to Hitachi vacuum controlled. :ninja: Quote Link to comment
Doctoraudio Posted December 17, 2013 Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 If you run the weber, make sure you get the right jets for your motor! Mine was jetted for a L20 not a bored out L18.Now it runs way better! Quote Link to comment
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