Jump to content
aintnobiscuit

Bad gauge cluster voltage regulator? Easy $2 fix.

Recommended Posts

I just put one of these in my car , I was having intermittent fuel and temp guage  one day it worked next minute it didnt 

I am excited to see if this cures my problem 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Oh man, that looks awesome! Good job! I'm going to do the same thing now!

 

:w00t:

 

It does work, and pretty well. Here's a vid. I forgot to post it a while back. I wish there was a way to make it work faster, but I'm just happy it's working.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Different question, how much voltage is supplied to the sender itself. Is it just straight 12 volts?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

I have the regulater. Gonna solder it up tonight and let you dudes know how it works:-) I'm excited to solve this minor issue finally

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

So I made my voltage regulator. Just a quick question.

Thers 12v in, 9v out. So wouldint I have two outsputs as there are two blade connection style hookups on

The gauge cluster. Or is one an input and other out put?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

12v into the VR, 9v out of the VR, common ground. You power the gauge cluster with the 9v out. I'm doing this for my 521 in a couple hours, so I'll post pics if you want.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post

Well if it's set up right, I'm almost on E and my temp is bad. At one point

I reversed the 12v and 9v just to cover my

Bases cause Im not wiring guru lol, the fuel registered half a tank and the temp was high.

Turned the car off. After a bit, turned it on, no temp reading.

I'm going to rip my eyes out.

I'll hit it again tomorrow. It's 1:09 am

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

If the rivet is loose on the board under the volt reg your guages will rise and fall intermitantly. .02 fix.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Really!!! That's what's going on. Well, I must say I fou a broken wire in my V regulater to so it could be that or the loos rivet.

Thanx man.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

So my fuel works . And when I add fuel , the gauge reflects the added fuel. The temp gauge still sucks .

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

The temp gauge still sucks .

 

CLEAN THE SENDER AT THE STAT. could be just a bad sender. I seen them go bad. but hard to get thm out of housing w/o breaking them. I usually just swap a whole another housing to conferm the proplem.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

The temp gauge still sucks .CLEAN THE SENDER AT THE STAT. could be just a bad sender. I seen them go bad. but hard to get thm out of housing w/o breaking them. I usually just swap a whole another housing to conferm the proplem.

What is the stat?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

My shit still doesint work . Temp goes all the way up and the same with fuel

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Different question, how much voltage is supplied to the sender itself. Is it just straight 12 volts?

The fuel sender is a variable resistor ground.

 

The temp sender is temperature affected ground.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

The fuel sender is a variable resistor ground.

 

The temp sender is temperature affected ground.

 

Back to the basic question!  NO 12 volts is NOT applied to the sensor.  The regulated 8.6 mechanicaly regulated voltage  [or 9 volts if you use the electronic regulated item specified in the basic subject entry!] is applied.  The resultant current flow is applied to the meter which should dampen the almost square wave 8.6 or electronic 9 volts and give a "correct" reading.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Correct. Voltage is applied to the gauge (meter).

Gauge is grounded by the sender unit.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

12v into the VR, 9v out of the VR, common ground. You power the gauge cluster with the 9v out. I'm doing this for my 521 in a couple hours, so I'll post pics if you want.

aintnobiscuit did it work ok on your 521? any pictures?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Just found this how-to. It sounds great and I'm going to be doing this to a few of my cars. But the pictures have gone missing, not loading up. Are they still around still?

Mark

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Hi,

I was wondering if the articular you posted for the cluster voltage regulator was for the 1966 mustang? I was wondering if the original could be replaced in my 1966 ford mustang. they are way to much for the size of them and would really appreciate if you had a chance to reply. would much rather go the way you did but i might need some kind of diagram or some info.

Thank you

Russ

Share this post


Link to post

Russ this is a Datsun forum so no it's not for a '66 Mustang... BUT if the Mustang gauges are run from a similar 8.6? volts supply then possibly it could be used for that. A Mustang or Ford forum might have this info.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

yes that's what i was thinking, the guy who made original post had 3 different cars, one was a 66 mustang. 2 friends of mine had 280 z's one put a big block in and the other has a 350, they sound sick. :):):) as in good :) well thanks for the reply, appreciate it.:)

Share this post


Link to post

thanks, for the reply datz, not sure if my last response made it but back to you, below, one of your members who posted original , had a mustang for one of his cars , and it came up on a search for mustang voltage regulators for gage cluster, thanks again :) intnobiscuit

Member Since 24 Feb 2012

Offline Last Active Jun 29 2015 04:09 PM star_off.pngstar_off.pngstar_off.pngstar_off.pngstar_off.png

Community Stats

  • Group Senior Member
  • Active Posts 892
  • Profile Views 3,121
  • Member Title Senior Member
  • Age 33 years old
  • Birthday October 2, 1982
  • Gender
    mystery.png Not Telling
  • Location
    Newport Beach
  • Cars
    1969 datsun 510, 1970 datsun 521, 1966 mustang, 2013 BMW M3
  • Interests
    space, rockets, cars, engines, displacement modifiers, arduino, linux
  • Occupation
    software engineer

Share this post


Link to post

Sorry, didn't check back enough posts. If not compatible maybe the components can be jumbled around to tune it to the correct regulated voltage???

Share this post


Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.