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Round two, Bagged and Boosted RIP


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take the filler off it, clear and drive it lowwwwwwwwww. bare metal cars look cool

 

I had actually considerd it when all the panels were still "patina'd" But decided with all the work thats going into it i just gotta finish it!

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WOW!!

 

Sucks what happened.....

 

AMAZING what you've done!!

 

Just took me all my lunch and then some to get through both threads...........

 

Can't wait to see this at Canby!!

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WOW!!

 

Sucks what happened.....

 

AMAZING what you've done!!

 

Just took me all my lunch and then some to get through both threads...........

 

Can't wait to see this at Canby!!

 

Thanks man, i cant wait to get it on the road.

 

 

Alec (the painter) stopped by today, hes been having issues with his booth and hes got one car ahead of mine thats gotta get done first. He said at the least 2 weeks, at the most 4 weeks.... and probally 4 days of work left on my car.

 

Thats crampin my deadline quite a bit so i guess ill have to stop procrastinating on getting it back from paint and start getting other parts of the car movin....especially if i wanna make canby..

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  • 2 weeks later...

I put them on the bottom.  With a low car you ideally want the diff to be as high as possible to help with half shaft angularity.  Ideally though, you use them to adjust the angle of the input shaft to match that of the transmission output shaft.

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Got some small stuff done. including but not limited to, fitting the rear tailights, trunk seal lip work, trunk latch work, fitting the front valance, fitting the airdam to the valance, stripping apart the ka, got it painted, eliminated a bunch of stuff, gotta pull the head and do valve seals, then reassemble with new gaskets and seals.

 

 

 

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With what you cut out of your rear wells in your doorjams is the rear doors still usable? Talkin with a friend he says most of the time they dont work......

the rear doors open and close no problems

 

edit: and actually, it would be pretty hard to make it so the door jams interfere with the door itself....

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Ok cool. Im tryin to figure out how to make my car low without baging it. I live in bc so i cant go as low as your car and i dont think i can get low enuf by cuting my coils. I took them out to see how low it would go on bump stops and the rear does go low but the front doesnt look togo as low. Removing the bump stops will give me some room in the rear with a coil but i havnt figured out a way to get it lower in the front. Changing to the mr2 inserts only lowers it a bit but i still want a coil up front....any sugestions???

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Ok cool. Im tryin to figure out how to make my car low without baging it. I live in bc so i cant go as low as your car and i dont think i can get low enuf by cuting my coils. I took them out to see how low it would go on bump stops and the rear does go low but the front doesnt look togo as low. Removing the bump stops will give me some room in the rear with a coil but i havnt figured out a way to get it lower in the front. Changing to the mr2 inserts only lowers it a bit but i still want a coil up front....any sugestions???

Buy coils? Use the search bar at the top... There's a billion threads on lowering a 510 without the use of bags.

 

 

 

 

 

Nice work as always Casey. Hopefully you make your deadline and roll this thing out in time.

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Buy coils? Use the search bar at the top... There's a billion threads on lowering a 510 without the use of bags.

Nice work as always Casey. Hopefully you make your deadline and roll this thing out in time.

lookn good man, gunna make it to canby in this?

 

 

if it were sitting in the garage painted id say no problem having it together in 2 months, I think I have MOST everything to put it together, and enough money saved up to finish it I've just been waiting around for paint.

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What should i offer on this bumper... He wont give me a price, wants me to make an offer, its on a car hes trying to sell so i guess i can sorta understand.

 

opinions appreciated becasue i have no idea whats "fair"

 

 

 

 

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