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i just wnat to know what you think


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ok i have done many searches and found a lot of info but i want to hear form you guys and know what you guys think the best engine combo is for an l series. i have read through Jason Greys info and i just want to know what other peoples opinions are on getting some hp out of an L and your favorite engine combos

 

 

I want to know what

*crank

*pistons

*robs

*head/head work

*carb

*exhaust

what ever parts you guys think are the best and any info you want to share

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Weeell... to be honest some of the parts are near impossible to find unless you get lucky. For instance, Z22E parts, new they are NLA, and you almost have to find a whole 200sx to get them... even then, VERY hard. Many Z22S parts are the same as the L20b so thats not so hard. Z24 parts are fairly easy as well as KA.

 

I had planned to build an nice stroker L, but when I realized that it would cost me as much as something I wanted more I opted out and now have other plans... but maybe someday. The motor I would build would be the 2.4...

 

this one;

Medium block 2.4 Liter.

Stuff a Z24 crank and pistons into NAPS-Z or L20B block bored to 89mm by cutting down crank counterweights and clearance grinding block as per Ben Pila. This gives you a 2389cc L-series motor that doesnt require using defective (crack prone) Z24 block, fabricating timing cover, lengthening timing chain or modification to close hood. Z24 piston tops will need to be milled down slightly. Fedral-Mogul 33.8mm pin height pistons might not need milling? Click HERE for Bens write-up of necessary modifications.

Compression ratio with Z24 pistons and open chambered head is 10.25:1 before pistons milled.

parts: : modified Z22 block, modified Z24 crank, modified Z24 pistons, Z22S/ L20B rods

s/2+r+p: 227.7

piston deck height: 0.45 (above deck)

 

...but I like torque. :D

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So are you wanting to stay with a L20 block? Or are you considering using the Z22 block.

I think that a Z22 block, crank, and a Large overbore gets you close to the 2.3 mark. Use a L series head. Should produce lots of torque and rev very nice with the right cam. Plenty of power to push a little old Datsun around and still get decent mileage.

 

Jason

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Big Bore 2.3L

KA24 pistons into a bored Z20/Z22/L20B block. The small 2.8cc dish area of the KA24 pistons helps to preserve compression ratio even with the low piston deck height. Compression ratio with a open chambered U67 head is 9.9:1 or use dished Z24 pistons and peanut chambered head for 8.9:1 compression ratio.

Parts: Z22 crank, KA24 pistons, Z22S/ L20B rods in a +2mm bored Z22 block or +4mm Z20/L20B block.

s/2+r+p= 92/2+145.9+34.0= 225.9 mm

piston deck height: -1.55mm below deck

 

 

This is the motor combo that has always gotten my curiosity. All common parts that are easy to get. And you could stay with your L series block, however i think that a 4mm overbore is a bit much for that block. I would think that the 2mm overbore in the Z22 block would hold up better. Assuming that nissan cast the Z22 block a little thicker for the larger factory bore.

 

How about usint the dished pistons and the open chambered head, what happens to the compression ratio? Did it get low enough for a turbo option?

 

Jason

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Big Bore 2.3L

KA24 pistons into a bored Z20/Z22/L20B block. The small 2.8cc dish area of the KA24 pistons helps to preserve compression ratio even with the low piston deck height. Compression ratio with a open chambered U67 head is 9.9:1 or use dished Z24 pistons and peanut chambered head for 8.9:1 compression ratio.

Parts: Z22 crank, KA24 pistons, Z22S/ L20B rods in a +2mm bored Z22 block or +4mm Z20/L20B block.

s/2+r+p= 92/2+145.9+34.0= 225.9 mm

piston deck height: -1.55mm below deck

 

 

This is the motor combo that has always gotten my curiosity. All common parts that are easy to get. And you could stay with your L series block, however i think that a 4mm overbore is a bit much for that block. I would think that the 2mm overbore in the Z22 block would hold up better. Assuming that nissan cast the Z22 block a little thicker for the larger factory bore.

 

How about usint the dished pistons and the open chambered head, what happens to the compression ratio? Did it get low enough for a turbo option?

 

Jason

 

i wounder how that would do turboed....hummmmm....:rolleyes:

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How about usint the dished pistons and the open chambered head, what happens to the compression ratio? Did it get low enough for a turbo option?

 

Jason

 

It works out to just under 8.40

 

A bit low IMHO as a higher compression will keep performance up under non boost conditions.

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Have you seen what those madmen in Oz are doing with L heads lately? Re aligning the valve angle, welding the chambers up and, and ... well see for yourself:

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/headL245hp2.jpg[/img]"]headL245hp2.jpg http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/headL245hp1.jpg[/img]"]headL245hp1.jpg

 

Makes me wet. Here's more from a thread on The Realm:http://www.the510realm.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9756

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I am also in contemplation of which L series to build. I would avoid any sort of the stroker motors. It will require too much work and $$$. I believe it is the z22s that has nla parts but someone here directed me to new .020 over pistons. I have seen a few parts for the z22e. Much more than the s.

I am also debating a turbo but if I dont go that route I will be doing the 2.3 with my z22s. I believe you can build this motor with a l20b block also.

I may be getting a parts 510 with a ka in it so I will have the pistons right there and that will be .080 over.

Search recent posts in the engine section here and you will find a lot of info and opinions as I have been inquiring on the same subject.

Maybe a 2.3 with open chamber head and lightly milled pistons or a little extra taken out of the cc when the valves are unshrouded would bring the comp rat down enough for a turbo.

I am a vintage buff and am not fond of ka swaps or other newer motors,at least not in the trucks.I like the idea of a sleeper vintage hot rod with the stock valve cover.

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It works out to just under 8.40

 

A bit low IMHO as a higher compression will keep performance up under non boost conditions.

 

8.40 is way low enough for a turbo and no need to trim piston tops. Anything below 9 would work. You would have to run premium gas anyway. An inter cooler would allow even more boost without ping.

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8.40 is way low enough for a turbo and no need to trim piston tops. Anything below 9 would work. You would have to run premium gas anyway. An inter cooler would allow even more boost without ping.

 

hmmmmm....thats cool. A 2.3 turbo L banger would be the shiznite!!!hmmmmmmmm.

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try this thing out; http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

 

Using the engine design utility with the 2389 motor combo using z24 pistons and U67 head it comes out to 10.1-1 compression, and .450mm deck clearance, it might require a little bit of clearancing for the valves. This motor with a set of sidedrafts and a header, maybe some port work and a mild cam... would be pretty damn rip snortin! If you used the l20b block and the U67 head visually it would look like a stock 620 motor with sidedrafts... it would still run fine on pump gas too... premium but still pump gas, still better mileage than a turbo motor.

 

Hell, have some custom forged slugs made and dial back the compression to 9.5 and you can probably run it on 87 octane... plus you'd KNOW you won't need and valve clearancing.

 

This motor would sound like a monster if built right... :drool:

 

Anyway, I'm done here... like I said, my truck is getting something a little different.

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Z22 block / crank

JE forged / dished(~4cc) pistons @ 88.5mm

L20 rods

 

U67 head ported/bigger valves

isky stage II (0.480)

 

dual mikuni 40's

 

plan is to be able to run on 87 @ 9.7:1

 

 

cruiser / DD / goon squad patrol

 

 

 

 

 

the LZ24 is essentially a stock Z24 bottom w/a U67 head.

runs great on 87

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