bagged_datsun Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 ok i have done many searches and found a lot of info but i want to hear form you guys and know what you guys think the best engine combo is for an l series. i have read through Jason Greys info and i just want to know what other peoples opinions are on getting some hp out of an L and your favorite engine combos I want to know what *crank *pistons *robs *head/head work *carb *exhaust what ever parts you guys think are the best and any info you want to share Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 a lot of those parts for building a motor are kinda hard to get... so I say build whats available to you. Quote Link to comment
bagged_datsun Posted July 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 well i already have an engine in my truck now so it wouldn't be like i need to have an engine running in any certain amount of time so i can just wait tell i can find the parts Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 Weeell... to be honest some of the parts are near impossible to find unless you get lucky. For instance, Z22E parts, new they are NLA, and you almost have to find a whole 200sx to get them... even then, VERY hard. Many Z22S parts are the same as the L20b so thats not so hard. Z24 parts are fairly easy as well as KA. I had planned to build an nice stroker L, but when I realized that it would cost me as much as something I wanted more I opted out and now have other plans... but maybe someday. The motor I would build would be the 2.4... this one; Medium block 2.4 Liter. Stuff a Z24 crank and pistons into NAPS-Z or L20B block bored to 89mm by cutting down crank counterweights and clearance grinding block as per Ben Pila. This gives you a 2389cc L-series motor that doesnt require using defective (crack prone) Z24 block, fabricating timing cover, lengthening timing chain or modification to close hood. Z24 piston tops will need to be milled down slightly. Fedral-Mogul 33.8mm pin height pistons might not need milling? Click HERE for Bens write-up of necessary modifications. Compression ratio with Z24 pistons and open chambered head is 10.25:1 before pistons milled. parts: : modified Z22 block, modified Z24 crank, modified Z24 pistons, Z22S/ L20B rods s/2+r+p: 227.7 piston deck height: 0.45 (above deck) ...but I like torque. :D Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 Unless you're just into it for the experience and I-wanna-be-different, everything I've read says a KA would produce more hp and torque for less money. Quote Link to comment
bagged_datsun Posted July 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 basically its just that everyone is going ka or some kinda swap and i want to stay l20 and i have built ka's before but i haven't yet built a performance l20 Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 So are you wanting to stay with a L20 block? Or are you considering using the Z22 block. I think that a Z22 block, crank, and a Large overbore gets you close to the 2.3 mark. Use a L series head. Should produce lots of torque and rev very nice with the right cam. Plenty of power to push a little old Datsun around and still get decent mileage. Jason Quote Link to comment
bagged_datsun Posted July 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 i was thinking of staying with the l20 block buy who knows maybe someone can convince me :D Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 Big Bore 2.3L KA24 pistons into a bored Z20/Z22/L20B block. The small 2.8cc dish area of the KA24 pistons helps to preserve compression ratio even with the low piston deck height. Compression ratio with a open chambered U67 head is 9.9:1 or use dished Z24 pistons and peanut chambered head for 8.9:1 compression ratio. Parts: Z22 crank, KA24 pistons, Z22S/ L20B rods in a +2mm bored Z22 block or +4mm Z20/L20B block. s/2+r+p= 92/2+145.9+34.0= 225.9 mm piston deck height: -1.55mm below deck This is the motor combo that has always gotten my curiosity. All common parts that are easy to get. And you could stay with your L series block, however i think that a 4mm overbore is a bit much for that block. I would think that the 2mm overbore in the Z22 block would hold up better. Assuming that nissan cast the Z22 block a little thicker for the larger factory bore. How about usint the dished pistons and the open chambered head, what happens to the compression ratio? Did it get low enough for a turbo option? Jason Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 basically its just that everyone is going ka or some kinda swap and i want to stay l20 and i have built ka's before but i haven't yet built a performance l20 Ahhhhh, makes sense. Go for it! :D Quote Link to comment
bagged_datsun Posted July 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 Big Bore 2.3L KA24 pistons into a bored Z20/Z22/L20B block. The small 2.8cc dish area of the KA24 pistons helps to preserve compression ratio even with the low piston deck height. Compression ratio with a open chambered U67 head is 9.9:1 or use dished Z24 pistons and peanut chambered head for 8.9:1 compression ratio. Parts: Z22 crank, KA24 pistons, Z22S/ L20B rods in a +2mm bored Z22 block or +4mm Z20/L20B block. s/2+r+p= 92/2+145.9+34.0= 225.9 mm piston deck height: -1.55mm below deck This is the motor combo that has always gotten my curiosity. All common parts that are easy to get. And you could stay with your L series block, however i think that a 4mm overbore is a bit much for that block. I would think that the 2mm overbore in the Z22 block would hold up better. Assuming that nissan cast the Z22 block a little thicker for the larger factory bore. How about usint the dished pistons and the open chambered head, what happens to the compression ratio? Did it get low enough for a turbo option? Jason i wounder how that would do turboed....hummmmm....:rolleyes: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 How about usint the dished pistons and the open chambered head, what happens to the compression ratio? Did it get low enough for a turbo option? Jason It works out to just under 8.40 A bit low IMHO as a higher compression will keep performance up under non boost conditions. Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 Now combine that with the rare fuel injection intake and about six psi of boost and a valvetrain that can handle about 7k rpm. That would be fun, and still L powered. Jason Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 Have you seen what those madmen in Oz are doing with L heads lately? Re aligning the valve angle, welding the chambers up and, and ... well see for yourself: http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/headL245hp2.jpg[/img]"] http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/headL245hp1.jpg[/img]"] Makes me wet. Here's more from a thread on The Realm:http://www.the510realm.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9756 Quote Link to comment
datsunfish Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 I am also in contemplation of which L series to build. I would avoid any sort of the stroker motors. It will require too much work and $$$. I believe it is the z22s that has nla parts but someone here directed me to new .020 over pistons. I have seen a few parts for the z22e. Much more than the s. I am also debating a turbo but if I dont go that route I will be doing the 2.3 with my z22s. I believe you can build this motor with a l20b block also. I may be getting a parts 510 with a ka in it so I will have the pistons right there and that will be .080 over. Search recent posts in the engine section here and you will find a lot of info and opinions as I have been inquiring on the same subject. Maybe a 2.3 with open chamber head and lightly milled pistons or a little extra taken out of the cc when the valves are unshrouded would bring the comp rat down enough for a turbo. I am a vintage buff and am not fond of ka swaps or other newer motors,at least not in the trucks.I like the idea of a sleeper vintage hot rod with the stock valve cover. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 It works out to just under 8.40 A bit low IMHO as a higher compression will keep performance up under non boost conditions. 8.40 is way low enough for a turbo and no need to trim piston tops. Anything below 9 would work. You would have to run premium gas anyway. An inter cooler would allow even more boost without ping. Quote Link to comment
datsunfish Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 8.40 is way low enough for a turbo and no need to trim piston tops. Anything below 9 would work. You would have to run premium gas anyway. An inter cooler would allow even more boost without ping. hmmmmm....thats cool. A 2.3 turbo L banger would be the shiznite!!!hmmmmmmmm. Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 Yah, 2.3 liters without making a stroker motor, and with the right combination it should run just fine on cheap pump gas.. Jason Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 try this thing out; http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ Using the engine design utility with the 2389 motor combo using z24 pistons and U67 head it comes out to 10.1-1 compression, and .450mm deck clearance, it might require a little bit of clearancing for the valves. This motor with a set of sidedrafts and a header, maybe some port work and a mild cam... would be pretty damn rip snortin! If you used the l20b block and the U67 head visually it would look like a stock 620 motor with sidedrafts... it would still run fine on pump gas too... premium but still pump gas, still better mileage than a turbo motor. Hell, have some custom forged slugs made and dial back the compression to 9.5 and you can probably run it on 87 octane... plus you'd KNOW you won't need and valve clearancing. This motor would sound like a monster if built right... :drool: Anyway, I'm done here... like I said, my truck is getting something a little different. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 Z22 block / crank JE forged / dished(~4cc) pistons @ 88.5mm L20 rods U67 head ported/bigger valves isky stage II (0.480) dual mikuni 40's plan is to be able to run on 87 @ 9.7:1 cruiser / DD / goon squad patrol the LZ24 is essentially a stock Z24 bottom w/a U67 head. runs great on 87 Quote Link to comment
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