68Datsun510 Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 Hey folks, heres a short run down on an issue that has been persistent in my 510 4 door for over a year now. At highway speed, you get what feels like a loose tire feel, a low frequency vibration that gets progressively worse with speed, and especially so with extra weight such as a passenger. I have swapped differentials, I have swapped half shafts out, rotated the tires, etc, drivelines all balanced and have new u joints. All bolts tight. Is it possible a blown rear control arm bushing can cause the wobble? I do notice its fairly consistently the right side. I have a urethane kit for it, but i have a datsport rear. Ive heard poly isnt friendly with them. Im pullin my hair out at this point... No obvious problems, but the vibe continues. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 the vibe continues. bet the ladies love it 2 Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 How are your wheel bearings? How low is your 510? If the angle for the halfshafts is too extreme, you'll get that, too. Alot of people do the CV axle upgrade for that reason. 1 Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 also check your rotor can be warped. Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted April 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 you'd think I would only feel the rotor when the brakes are applied... and they are less than a year old, but i suppose anything can happen... Wheel bearings were replaced in 2006 with all new. My car is hardly what you'd call "low"... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 Rear brake drum missing a chunk throwing the balance out. Rear crossmember mounting bolt(s) loose. Differential bolts and mustache bar bolts and mounting bolt(s) loose. Move tires to front see if change. Loose transmission mount or transmission crossmember. Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted April 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 Rear brake drum missing a chunk throwing the balance out. Rear crossmember mounting bolt(s) loose. Differential bolts and mustache bar bolts and mounting bolt(s) loose. Move tires to front see if change. Loose transmission mount or transmission crossmember. I wish it was that simple. I have disc in rear, all bolts very tight. Swapped to a whole different set of tires, even rotated around, no improvement. I have hears bad bushings in the rear control arms can cause problems, but buying new ones is impossible... Quote Link to comment
510T Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Switch to control arm bearings, shit is solid and non-binding. I love mine. Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted April 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 Idea on cost/difficulty to install? Quote Link to comment
510T Posted April 3, 2013 Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 Kinda pricey $295 from dpracing.co and require being tack welded in the arm. Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted April 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 Wow, these were exactly what I saw in the back of a car on a lift at Rebello Racing yesterday. I think i'll give my poly kit a shot before going to these, i already have that kit. Thanks for the info! Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted April 3, 2013 Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 Poly isn't a problem until you start adjusting things like camber and toe, then it will bind up Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 Hows your steering box? Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted April 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 Poly isn't a problem until you start adjusting things like camber and toe, then it will bind up Thats exactly what i feared, however Datsport disagrees :confused: Bah! Ill get another rear end in the thing and report back... Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 It depends on the style of adjustment. The futofab style camber toe plates are not poly friendly. The datslort kit looks like it would be poly friendly because both mounts for the trailing arm move. I think you would be fine with poly bushings on the datsport kit Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted April 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 The datsport will bind slightly, no way around it, the "Penultimate" kit has pivoting inboard control arm mounts, correcting for any bind. Could be worth a shot still, Im not running extreme camber or alignment. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 Then you should be good, anything over 2° is where you would run into issues Quote Link to comment
Baz Posted April 19, 2013 Report Share Posted April 19, 2013 Poly bushes work well with our ARCs. You just need the right duro. If you are using hard red urethane then you will have a binding problem. We use a black urethane that is just a tad firmer than rubber. However if your bushes are intact and all the fastners are secure then the X member is not at fault. In Oz we usually run 15 to 20 mm of rake front to rear. Better handling at speed & levels out the squat a bit under throttle load. I would add about 6 mm of spacer to the rear spring saddle. Good rear mono gas shocks will also help to counter the vibration with load in the rear or under acceleration. 1 Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted April 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 In the rear I am sitting right at -2 degrees camber. No way around it... Baz, thanks for chiming in, always great to see the company itself lend advice!!! Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted April 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 Problems improved dramatically with new tires, but still slightly present. Changing the rear end out asap to one with supposedly less miles. Quote Link to comment
Ratwagon1600 Posted April 20, 2013 Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 Problems improved dramatically with new tires, but still slightly present. Changing the rear end out asap to one with supposedly less miles.Was going to be my next suggestion. It's a major PITA, but if you could, a process of elimination change out may work better in your favor. What I mean here is, start from the middle and work out. i.e. start by replacing diff, then see what happens. Then try LHS drive shaft, RHS drive shaft etc etc Have you checked the pins which hold the outer ends of the rear cross member to the body? The ones I'm talking about are the two which are just forward of the rear wheel well and go through the subframe and rear crossmember mounts. There's a dished washer which sits under there as well as a fairly thick washer before the lock nut is applied. Would post pics, but nowhere near a Datto at the moment :( Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 20, 2013 Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 Baz is in da haus!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
Dat510_Chris Posted April 27, 2013 Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 I had the same issue seemed to go away after putting in a plate under the wheel well covering an area over the 3 bolt holes for the steering box. Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted April 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 Already have it on both sides ;) Quote Link to comment
oakrun Posted April 29, 2013 Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 you need to find a place that balances the wheels while they're on the car. The guy i went to placed a glass of water on the front fender to watch the motion of the ocean. I think that was really old school but what a perfect balance it was. He also had the machine that resurfaced the tires so they're perfectly round. It grinds off a litle tread but it can save a set of tires if they're out of round slightly or have a flat spot from locking up and skidding. Your're probably going to have to go to a bigger place like sacto for that. Quote Link to comment
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