metalmonkey47 Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Searched around, and didn't find any relevant information on the correct wiring for the bypassing the external regulator. Lots for 510, but I believe the wire colors are different. The post pinned in this section was on an already IR truck, so it didn't have the needed info. Anyone have diagrams on what wire goes where on the plug??? Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 i completely removed the voltage regulator Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 AFIK the wiring (colors) are the same as the 510 but the choke relay may then be permanently on all the time. The fix is to just connect the (blue) choke heat wire to the (red) idle cut solenoid at the carb and also unplug the choke heater relay. If not the battery will drain over two days because the relay coil is energized.. What I did was remove the external regulator and cut the plug off. Keep and join the Black/White stripe and the White/Red stripe wires together and also the Yellow wire to the White wire. Solder and heat shrink them. Remove all other wires from the plug, they are not needed. My plug looked like this and this is what I did but you plug may be different shape... This plug looks neat with no bare wires, and works by simply plugging it back onto the harness plug. I recently put a 100 amp '02 Altima alternator on my 710 goon and the regulator plug is different but the wiring is the same... Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted March 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 sweet! So I just need to join yellow and white as well as w/b and w/r. Seems simple enough! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Yes, but you probably will have to disable the choke heater relay too. What IR alternator are you planning? Th e car and 720 truck ones are larger diameter and will probably hit the idler arm on a 620. Mine did. Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 give me a second, (or a day) and ill figure out how i did it. i poured over the electric drawing, looked over Mike's and other's installs, and after a few days figured out how to just remove the VR, the plug, give the choke power, and not drain the batt. if not for you, maybe someone else will find it useful Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted March 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Yes, but you probably will have to disable the choke heater relay too. What IR alternator are you planning? Th e car and 720 truck ones are larger diameter and will probably hit the idler arm on a 620. Mine did. I'm not too worried about that,unless it's going to affect something elsewhere. I have 12V power from somewhere else to the choke. My alt came from a ZX-T. The issue I'm having is that I'm running into the water neck @ the bottom, and the idler arm with less then 1/4 inch to adjust. I can't fit my belt on, and probably won't have enough to adjust it. I'm gonna go snag a few belts from the 'zone and see what I can come up with. Is there a smaller diameter 60 amp?? 200sx maybe? give me a second, (or a day) and ill figure out how i did it. i poured over the electric drawing, looked over Mike's and other's installs, and after a few days figured out how to just remove the VR, the plug, give the choke power, and not drain the batt. if not for you, maybe someone else will find it useful I wouldn't mind mulling over that. I've got it all apart, and thankfully I don't work tomorrow so I'm not in any rush to get this done. Sooner this is done, the sooner I can go to mounting my electric fan and Recaro's Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted March 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Also, where's my choke relay??? I don't have anything like that under my hood. :confused: (Also never had a working charge light, so i hope that's not an issue) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 give me a second, (or a day) and ill figure out how i did it. i poured over the electric drawing, looked over Mike's and other's installs, and after a few days figured out how to just remove the VR, the plug, give the choke power, and not drain the batt. if not for you, maybe someone else will find it useful Yes on my wifes 710 sedan I pulled the box with all the harnesses and relays. Used a supply and a ground and re did the choke relay so that it is on and off with the key and does not stay on. My alt came from a ZX-T. The issue I'm having is that I'm running into the water neck @ the bottom, and the idler arm with less then 1/4 inch to adjust. I can't fit my belt on, and probably won't have enough to adjust it. I'm gonna go snag a few belts from the 'zone and see what I can come up with. Is there a smaller diameter 60 amp?? 200sx maybe?Use the zx lower rad inlet it's shapped different and gives mor alt clearance. Quote Link to comment
thebucketslider Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 i used 79 200sx alt and belt. fits perfect worked like a charm. when i bought my truck the alt wasnt even hooked up, and the wiring was a rats nest. i just looked up a diagram and stared at it long enough and youll see what wires to use. got it all dont it the parking lot at work, and the guy who owns the auto shop across the parking lot said holy fuck, good job, i never went to that school! told him its the fun in owning a datsun! Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted March 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Well shit, got it all in and wired up and no charge. I mentioned a few posts back about the charge light not functioning. Could this be related? I thought I saw some discussion of this before Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted March 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Nevermind! It's weird, with the old external regulator the charge light never worked, and I.never bothered putting the bulb holder back in because everything worked. Put a bulb back in and it works. Charges at 14v and with headlights, highbeams, heater, radio, etc it only drops .04v Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 The bulb should be or is beast if it IS working. Something about a small trickle of current making magnetism and this in turn makes output voltage. You may be able to run without a bulb from residual magnetism in the field coil or armature. Quote Link to comment
datsun 160J SSS Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 Hi guys I have a question I did the 86 chevy s10 100amp alternator swap with the 4 pin plug .and the charge light stays on it's over charging at 17 volts could the alternator be bad ? any way to check it ? the 620 is a 73 year model the alternator fits so nice like stock its the small alternator . I added grounds from the block to the alternator and to the battery . Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 I ASSume you have disconnected the external regulator and added jumpers to the proper two pair of wires ? Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 510 wiring s fine. my choke heater relay is dead so i unplugged it. i am also using a 720 55 amp alt in my truck. no issues to report and it was a plug and play deal. even used the same belt but i had to use a later lower brakcet to make it line up right. Quote Link to comment
datsun 160J SSS Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 Yes I completed the connection white +red to white +black and yellow to white I removed the plug from the main wire harness so I know the colors are connected right. smooth look with the regulator removed and no ugly plug showing Quote Link to comment
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