Gensaiken Posted July 18, 2008 Report Share Posted July 18, 2008 So I have a 510 wagon that has been sitting for about 5-6 years and I finally got it started. It has the stock carb and the rest of the motor is pretty stock as well hooked up to a floor automatic. Anyways, as soon as I start it it'll idle for a few seconds then slowly sputter and die. If I give it a bit more gas it'll stay on but soon as you take your foot off the gas it starts to die. Any idea why this is happening and what I can do to resolve it? I've heard the stock carbs don't like to sit too long. Is there anything that can be done with out rebuilding / replacing it? Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted July 18, 2008 Report Share Posted July 18, 2008 i would try taking it off and blasting chemtool threw the whole thing but if your gonna go threw that just rebuild it Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted July 18, 2008 Report Share Posted July 18, 2008 So I have a 510 wagon that has been sitting for about 5-6 years and I finally got it started. It has the stock carb and the rest of the motor is pretty stock as well hooked up to a floor automatic. Anyways, as soon as I start it it'll idle for a few seconds then slowly sputter and die. If I give it a bit more gas it'll stay on but soon as you take your foot off the gas it starts to die. Any idea why this is happening and what I can do to resolve it? I've heard the stock carbs don't like to sit too long. Is there anything that can be done with out rebuilding / replacing it? Not really bro... the poor thing is probably gummed up. Since the car is an auto there is the possibility of the the torque converter being low on fluid and losing enough pressure to let the motor die... kinda like and OVER lightened flywheel not having enough weight to keep the motor running... :blink: Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted July 18, 2008 Report Share Posted July 18, 2008 So are you saying that the gas in there is like 5 years old? if so, yep goo chance it's no good anymore. Drain the sucker and clean out the tank eally good and change your filter, too, then clean out your carb with carb cleaner Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 18, 2008 Report Share Posted July 18, 2008 Richard, does it have an idle cut solenoid? Look just to the valve cover side of the choke, usually a red wire going to it. If it does, check that it clicks when you turn the key to the on position. If not working there will be no fuel to the idle circuit. The L20Bs have them, not sure if any 510s do. It may have a later carb on it or a different motor. Quote Link to comment
Gensaiken Posted July 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2008 So are you saying that the gas in there is like 5 years old? if so, yep goo chance it's no good anymore. Drain the sucker and clean out the tank eally good and change your filter, too, then clean out your carb with carb cleaner I flushed out the tank before I put new gas in it. So the fuel is new and the filter is good. I'll try the carb cleaner. Richard, does it have an idle cut solenoid? Look just to the valve cover side of the choke, usually a red wire going to it. If it does, check that it clicks when you turn the key to the on position. If not working there will be no fuel to the idle circuit. The L20Bs have them, not sure if any 510s do. It may have a later carb on it or a different motor. I'll take a look for that.. That could be whats happening. I know a few wires have been messed with (I found the wires that were supposed to be connected to the trans connected to the carb..) so i'll take a look and see if things are connected properly. Not really bro... the poor thing is probably gummed up. Since the car is an auto there is the possibility of the the torque converter being low on fluid and losing enough pressure to let the motor die... kinda like and OVER lightened flywheel not having enough weight to keep the motor running... :blink: Hmm, thats a possiblity but pretty unlikely right now since the vehicle isn't moving. Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted July 19, 2008 Report Share Posted July 19, 2008 rev it up and stick your hand over the carb. it will suck any movable crap through the jets and what not. maybe turn the idle screw up. hell drive the piss out of it for a couple days. that'll change it's attitude. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 19, 2008 Report Share Posted July 19, 2008 hell drive the piss out of it for a couple days. that'll change it's attitude. Although this sounds cracked, like kicking the TV when it doesn't work, when it comes to carbs it sometimes DOES work. Sometimes it just needs fresh fuel flushed through all the little orifices to dissolve gummy varnish deposits. Water condensation will collect in the bowl and cover the main jet and choke off fuel. Water is thicker than gas and it's hard for venturi vacuum to suck it through. Maybe a spec of dirt that needs a push. Quote Link to comment
Gensaiken Posted July 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2008 Although this sounds cracked, like kicking the TV when it doesn't work, when it comes to carbs it sometimes DOES work. Sometimes it just needs fresh fuel flushed through all the little orifices to dissolve gummy varnish deposits. Water condensation will collect in the bowl and cover the main jet and choke off fuel. Water is thicker than gas and it's hard for venturi vacuum to suck it through. Maybe a spec of dirt that needs a push. I'll see what I can do about that. I've tried moving it around before but with out brakes its a run away train. Don't ask me how I know this! :lol: I'll have to see if there are any adjustments that can be made. Where is the idle screw on a stock carb? Honestly i've never messed with the stock carbs all that much. Usually people have ditched the stock carb before I get em. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 19, 2008 Report Share Posted July 19, 2008 http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/carbL20BHitachi.jpg[/img]"] If you look at the bottom of long spring where it attaches to a white plastic gromet, and look just to the right you'll see another much smaller spring with the screw down the center. That is the tapered idle mixture screw. Just to the left of the large spring an equal distance is another Philips head screw with spring. This its the idle speed screw. The Idle cut solenoid is the hex shaped thing with the red wire coming out of it. Yours may not have, it but if it does, it has to have 12 volts when the key is on ... or no fuel to the idle circuit. Quote Link to comment
Gensaiken Posted July 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 Cool, I'll take the air cleaner off and see if I can find the idle screw. Hopefully thats the problem. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 Turn the idle speed up till it runs, then adjust the mixture screw in/out till you get the fastest smooth running, then turn the idle speed down and repeat back and forth. Sometimes there is as much as 3/4 turn of the mixture screw where not much happens, just turn from too rich (out) to too lean (in) and then set in the middle. Quote Link to comment
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