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How to wire a KA, CA, SR, and VG into anything


Icehouse

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ok, so i traced some of the mystery wires down.... got the car to start cranking.... i put another ground from block to body and that one started smoking.... i havent touched anything on the factory harness except for wires needed to install the KA.... gonna go buy a super thick ground cable and see if that fixes things..... crossing my fingers....

 

 

If you had a thick ground wire it should be fine as long as the connections are good. So now the engine is cranking but a small ground wire is smoking? Is the wire all black? Or does it have a stripe? Maybe a picture of the smoking wire would help, like were it goes. Try unhooking it, if it's the ground near the ECU it's not needed, or at least I stopped hooking them up. All it does is go into the common ground bundle of the ECU which loops to the intake mani grounds. Which in can smoke if there isn't a big ground cable, the current tries to find a path through the small ECU ground ending badly. Don't ask me how I know this :D

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thats exactly what was happening..... i thought my ground was hooked up in the engine bay....... and oops i forgot i took it off to relocate it last week..... so its cranking strong now... getting fuel up to injectors..... just no spark :( not sur e i have dizzy setup right..... i think i am going to replace all the plug wires , rotor and cap tomorrow just to be safe......

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Steve, you can try pulling an injector like I said, and see if it sprays. If so, the problem is spark. The easy way to check for spark is hook up your timing light, crank the motor and look for the flashing light. If you have fuel, and you have spark, and you have compression, you have a running motor.

 

If it still doesn't fire, there's something wrong with your timing (spark fires too soon/too late) or you have bad compression.

 

If you need a comp tester, timing light or anything else, let me know and I'll get them for ya!

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injectors are fine...... i do not have a timing light at the moment . havent needed one for years ( coil pack ignitions ) but i dont think its getting spark...... totally bummed today....

 

p.s. anyone have a pic of the dizzy cap with the plug numbers? not sure i have them right

Edited by 71ka510
cuz
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ok, after a dya and a half, i finally got it running..... problem? crappy plug wires from autozone, had to trim the boot back...... runs like a champ start right up. now here is the new problem... it only starts when you jump the starter with a screwdriver...... if you use the key , it cranks but never starts....... WTF??!!! suggestions? anyone

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ok, after a dya and a half, i finally got it running..... problem? crappy plug wires from autozone, had to trim the boot back...... runs like a champ start right up. now here is the new problem... it only starts when you jump the starter with a screwdriver...... if you use the key , it cranks but never starts....... WTF??!!! suggestions? anyone

 

Connect the black with blue to the black with white, your loosing power to the ECU during cranking. The stock 510 ignition switch was setup for points, so it sends power around the resistor to give the coil full juice (black with blue stripe). Then when the key is back in the run position it goes through a different wire (black with white stripe). So the ECU isn't going to get any power if they aren't connected.

 

Let me know how it works out :D

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injectors are fine...... i do not have a timing light at the moment . havent needed one for years ( coil pack ignitions ) but i dont think its getting spark...... totally bummed today....

 

p.s. anyone have a pic of the dizzy cap with the plug numbers? not sure i have them right

 

Car's with coil packs still have static timing they usually don't need adjustment but can from time to time.

 

Every Nissan 4 cylinder I've ever messed with has the same firing order 1 3 4 2

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well, all the coil pack cars i have been playing get timed using a tactrix cable.... so no timing gun needed...... evo and sti....... but i got that figured out... i will try the wire you suggested in the morning......

 

Damn I've always just made a jumper plug wire to clamp my dial back to. Shows how advanced I am haha

 

 

just struck me....... um should i still try those wires when i got the car to start with the key two days ago? so it was working before......

 

What I do in your situation is connect a test light to the black with white, see if it lights up with key on and key in the cranking position. I was going to explain this in my other post but I'm not a fan of typing. here goes :D

 

 

The ignition switch from the factory kills the black with white while cranking. It sends power through the black with blue wire. BUT Shucks and other companies that sell the plastic actual switch that plugs into the back of the ignition started selling the zx one as a 510 replacement one since it fits and "worked". The only problem is that it bypasses the resistor so if the car still has points which most don't, it cuts down on the life of the points. Bad for points good for EFI swaps. Out of all the cars I've wired I've only seen a few that still had the original switch. Most of the cars we fix up have had there fair share of miles. If the car is in good condition usually it still has the original switch. If it has the original switch it needs the wires jumpered or power will be cut to the ECU.

 

Lets hope that is the problem :)

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well, i know all the parts on the car are original..... it just confuses me that i could use the key on friday and saturday, and it would start and run ( not very well due to timing being off ) and one day later ( 12 hours if that) and it doesnt work? why would it give power to ecu one moment then not the next?

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ok... :( i went out.... cranked with key..... turns over but does not start...... i jump the two wires you suggest..... and does not crank anymore at all.... take off jumper and ignition works except for it will not crank when you turn to "start" now :( so i jump a wire from the black with white... to the starter solenoid...... turn ign to "on" not all the way to "start" car starts up...... but i do not have to turn all the way to "start" seems kinda of how do you say DANGEROUS. lol any suggestions now?

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well i figured since the black with yellow was the original starter solenoid wire....... and the black with white went to the resistor..... thought it might work..... it did... the way you suggested shorted out m ignition completely...... odd but if it works then i am all smiles..... i might get to drive this beast after a year of tinkering........ thanks for the advice though....... what a great bday gift... to have it start and run yay

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but the colours you say are not thae same as mine

mine has 3 sets of wires coming from the main ecu plug and one relay

 

also how do i add the knok sensor wires to this loom

as i dont want to blow the motor with out it wired up

 

any one has a clue to do this

im new to the sr wiring thing

many thanks :(

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hey guys new here but i got a 1995 s-14 ka24de engine and wiring and ecu and wana put it in my 85 720 would you guys be able to draw out a quick diagram? and also, im kinda confused on the ecu's, would i need to keep my stock one along with the ka?

 

Diagram you would need should be on the first few pages pretty easy to follow.

The ECU's if it does have one?? not to sure on that yr but the KA ecu would replace it,you should have a ka in it? I dont think it would be needed for anything else,like the lights.The KA ecu will now run the engine.I wouldn't toss it if you do it just in case!

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