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How to wire a KA, CA, SR, and VG into anything

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You only need to locate this wires on the F3 connector. Use the relays as pictured previously in this thread.

 

95s14.jpg

 

call me an ass but can anyone tell me where to find the F3 plug? I cannot find any reference of it on the Nissan service manual

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The diagram IS OF the F3 connector.

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I understand that the diagram is of the f3 connector but what does the f3 connector go to? is the f3 connector the ECU plug itself?:confused:

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2008-12-01025.jpg
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what does everyone use for a drive shaft?!

 

shortened stock DL. To me the U-joints look to be the same size as the S13 units when compared next to each other.

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Im talking about the drive shaft, yano the big long thing that runs the diff, and axles...

Do you have to custom make one? Or do you use your old 510/610 one??

 

Yeah, I know dip shit. Learn how to type and properly ask a question and people might know what you're talking about. All you asked was "do they driveshafts bolt up". Number one, what motor are you using? If it's an SR20, stock driveshaft will work, just needs to be shortened. And a driveshaft only goes to the differential, not the axles.

Edited by spoolinitup33
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Spoolinitup33 for someone new your really a nasty lil sob. Why don't you lighten up and stop cursing people out for asking questions.

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Spoolinitup33 for someone new your really a nasty lil sob. Why don't you lighten up and stop cursing people out for asking questions.

 

Dudes a idiot. He asks do they drive shafts bolt up, which makes no sense and all I said was whatchu talkin bout willis and he acts like a fool. He didn't specify what kind of motor or anything. And I don't think calling someone a dip shit is "cursing" them.

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haha how am i a idiot

Ive done so many sr swaps in 240's and ka's into almost any thing, but never into a 510 or 610 sorry i cant type on my old keyboard. How about you go get laid and get off peoples asses on here.

 

And btw your the idiot ka/sr drive shafts are exactly the same because the tranny's are the same. douche. asking me which one when this is a sr/ka thread.

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2008-12-01025.jpg

 

sorry for the dumb question but what are all of the other connectors for?

 

the f2 looks like the one that has a relay on the harness I have

 

is the f3 pin out picture a front or rear view?

 

thank you by the way for your help :thumbup:

Edited by wilderb
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haha how am i a idiot

Ive done so many sr swaps in 240's and ka's into almost any thing, but never into a 510 or 610 sorry i cant type on my old keyboard. How about you go get laid and get off peoples asses on here.

 

And btw your the idiot ka/sr drive shafts are exactly the same because the tranny's are the same. douche. asking me which one when this is a sr/ka thread.

 

Ok, then good. I can't get laid for about another 3 months, she won't let me till we get married, sorry. And I didn't know ka and sr driveshafts were the same, I've never had a ka.

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does anyone have the part numbers for the relays and fuse block i went in to kregan and tryed to explain what i wanted and they didnt get it at all. proble bad explination on my part but what ever, anyone help me out

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This is probably going to sound really noobish but I gotta make sure, the orange wire from the s13 harness: does it connect to the starter itself or do you connect it to the starter wire (black/yellow) and then use the s13 starter wires? That may sound confusing but I explained the best I could.

 

I ask because using the 510 starter wire will get the engine to turn over but it doesn't catch. I wonder if it is because the orange wire is not hooked up or I'm just being retarded.

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This is probably going to sound really noobish but I gotta make sure, the orange wire from the s13 harness: does it connect to the starter itself or do you connect it to the starter wire (black/yellow) and then use the s13 starter wires? That may sound confusing but I explained the best I could.

 

I ask because using the 510 starter wire will get the engine to turn over but it doesn't catch. I wonder if it is because the orange wire is not hooked up or I'm just being retarded.

 

The orange wire goes on the starter SOLENOID. You could just wire it in with the ignition switch. Figure out which wire on the ignition switch has power going through it when the switch is in the START position. Does the orange wire just help feed a little more fuel on start up? It only needs power on it when your cranking the car.

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This is probably going to sound really noobish but I gotta make sure, the orange wire from the s13 harness: does it connect to the starter itself or do you connect it to the starter wire (black/yellow) and then use the s13 starter wires? That may sound confusing but I explained the best I could.

 

I ask because using the 510 starter wire will get the engine to turn over but it doesn't catch. I wonder if it is because the orange wire is not hooked up or I'm just being retarded.

 

 

I usually just splice the orange wire into the yellow with black stripe under the dash near the "nest" of connections. I'm getting lazy and don't go all the way to the starter to avoid an unneeded splice. In my youth I thought one less splice would be kinda cool, now I don't give a fuck :D

 

And yes the car doesn't like to start very easy without the orange wire (sometimes other colors on other engines, kind of a note for people reading this in the future.)

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When will the badass aluminium relay boxes be available for me to drool over?

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Thanks for clarifying. I ended up throwing caution to the wind and hooked it up to the starter solenoid before I knew for sure and it worked out just fine. Gotta finalize and clean up the wiring now.

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got a question, im sure ive been lazy, but i just want to make sure, does the fan need a relay of its own? from what i can tell mckinney didnt give it its own, and i keep blowing a certain fuse that the turbo timer is on as well.

 

btw: i think all the retodded posts here should be relocated to the trash bin, all that trash talkin kills my premium fuel pumped heart.

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got a question, im sure ive been lazy, but i just want to make sure, does the fan need a relay of its own? from what i can tell mckinney didnt give it its own, and i keep blowing a certain fuse that the turbo timer is on as well.

 

btw: i think all the retodded posts here should be relocated to the trash bin, all that trash talkin kills my premium fuel pumped heart.

 

IMO nothing extra should be ran through the stock fuse box, no fans no fuel pumps nothing major. I do add lights for gauges through the stock lighting dash circuit and maybe a radio but that is it. I personally don't think the wiring that was designed for a 35amp altornator is meant to handle all the shit that could be powered off your new 90amp unit. I like a sub pannel for all the add ons.

 

I'm sure I've posted this a few times and maybe even in this thread. One time I wired an SR in a dime I had everything on my sub system going through the key just to test fire the engine. Well the next day I forgot about it. To make a long story short I ended up driving it like that. A few weeks into driving it the ignition broke. So I was using the swith off the back of the ignition seperate from the key switch and just unplugging it to shut off my car. After the first 45min drive the switch was so hot it almost burned me! It took me forever to find the problem because I completely forgot about the "temporary" test wiring I had done. That is one of the reasons I now run everything extra off the sub fuse box.

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Jeff. Am I still supposed to run a 70a fuse between the starter sand subpanel?

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S13 KA24DE wiring

 

These are the connectors that you need.

 

IMG_0072.jpg

 

IMG_0074.jpg

 

IMG_0076.jpg

 

swapchartframe1.jpg

 

I have more diagrams for S14 KA24DE, S13 SR20DET, S14 SR20DET kouki and zenki, LS1, VK56DE. I'll post them eventually.

 

 

 

 

do you guys know were i can hook up the orange wire to? i know it says its the starter signal but were do i plug it into???

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We have been wiring all SRs S13 reds to S15s 6 speeds.

for many years.

we all ways use the 4 relay system.

But then we are always into over kill :)

 

the fourth relay is ign on & controls all power to the ECU & the other relays. except the memory wire. relays are cheap

Number of reasons for this & one being that a resistor on the board is

apt to fail. This results in not being able to kill the engine & also the fuel pump will not cut after 5 seconds.

 

We also mount the ignitor on top of the ECU tray, to reduce the wiring

needed. Its also neater.

 

Always solder a 100ohm resistor across the alt warning lamp terminals.

This will keep the alt charging if the globe fails & may just save your alternator.

 

The alternator sense wire needs to be connected to the ign on relay.

If the sense wire is hard wired, you (may) experience a flat battery after a week or so.

 

If you have an after market tach that will not work on some ECUs then solder a 1k resistor to +ve on the tach to the input from the ECU.

This is a pull up to amplify the signal to the tach.

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Forgot to add, we use a mounting tray which has the ECU, fuse box, relay

block & ignitor all attached.

 

This is a stand alone system completely seperate from the standard wiring.

Fail safe & easy to trouble shoot.

 

By the time we end up rewiring a 510 we end up with 3 fuse boxes & relay

blocks.

1: mounted behind the head lamp, controls all head lamp functions, horn & thermo fan. Is self powered from alternator & is earth switched. hidden wiring.

 

2: internal mounted on the side of the pedal box.

controls all parking lamps indicators,wipers & internal functions.

 

3: Ecu functions as described previously.

 

Note if you are running a rear mount battery the the pump relay can be mounted at the rear & powered direct from the battery.

Saves heavy gauge wire running thro the body & reduces voltage drop at the pump.

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baz

thank you for the no [bs ] info,, if you could please give a pic of the three fuse relay boxes ,,it would be appreciated

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