MH60M Posted January 7, 2023 Report Share Posted January 7, 2023 On 1/2/2023 at 10:26 PM, ]2eDeYe said: Black with yellow goes to the cold start regulator. It is on the intake. You likely need the crank sensor hooked up to run. TY for the response. The dizzy was off by 2 teeth. Runs great now. I will move the Black/Yellow just to be safe. Didn't need a crank sensor. I guess it's just for ODB2/diagnostic purposes. Have fun out there in WA. I was in Olympia for 15yrs. I miss everything except the rain. 2 Quote Link to comment
Jesse C. Posted December 1, 2023 Report Share Posted December 1, 2023 What size what the piece of fusible link wire that came with the can am box? Quote Link to comment
510rob Posted March 24, 2024 Report Share Posted March 24, 2024 16 awg fusible link 1 sq mm cross section conduction area around 5" long 1 Quote Link to comment
designateddoug Posted May 27, 2024 Report Share Posted May 27, 2024 Unfortunately it looks like I am going to be abandoning and selling my project 620. I've listed it and had a ton of interest but everyone big concern is hearing the 95 240sx KA24DE I have run. I pulled it out of a running car and put it in the 620 a couple years back but never wired it up. Going back through this thread and a couple other super helpful threads I'm confident in where I am out. But there are two wires I want to double check. They're the "Brown Power from Ignition" and "Blue/White IACV Solenoid for Idle Air" I pulled them along with all the other wires from the F plug as suggested in another thread but I'm not sure which relay I should be hooking them up too. I am not using the CANAM box only because I'm not keeping it, if I was I know that would be the way to go but I think I would still get stuck here... Any help is appreciated. Thank you. This is the F3 pinout I used to gather my wires. And this is the wiring diagram I used to hook up my relays. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted May 27, 2024 Report Share Posted May 27, 2024 IACV Solenoid for idle air is the AC idle increase solenoid. Not needed if you are not running AC Power from ignition should be be just what it says, ignition on 12v+. The canam box just replicates the 3 relay configuration of the stock wiring setup. It saves some wiring time and makes for a clean install. Not sure about using that SR to 510 diagram for a KA into a 620. Quote Link to comment
wolfy Posted July 24, 2024 Report Share Posted July 24, 2024 I know this is an old thread but I am trying to track down a can am wiring box for a stock SR20DE motor. Is somebody still making these alternatively looking for second hand?? Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment
Dalton95 Posted July 25, 2024 Report Share Posted July 25, 2024 Hi I was just wondering what everyone is doing for speedometer. From what I understand on a ka24de it leaves the speed sensor from the trans that produces voltage like a generator, then goes to the gauge cluster which understands that voltage output to make the speedo work. I am not using a stock gauze cluster. I am using an aem cd5 and was wondering if there is a module that I can install inline to understand the voltage that the speed sensor is making? Thanks for any help. Quote Link to comment
Jesse C. Posted January 20 Report Share Posted January 20 The Yellow, or Orange, wire that goes to the solenoid is connected exactly where? The batt cable lug, the start pin or ? Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted January 21 Report Share Posted January 21 Start pin on the starter ir ignition switch. It tells the ecu the starter is engaged. 1 Quote Link to comment
Jesse C. Posted January 22 Report Share Posted January 22 On 1/21/2025 at 8:22 AM, ]2eDeYe said: Start pin on the starter ir ignition switch. It tells the ecu the starter is engaged. Cool, thank you! Quote Link to comment
Jesse C. Posted January 22 Report Share Posted January 22 Ok, second issue, when I crank the engine over, the CA box lights up, but the ECU goes dark, until I release the key, then it lights up again. Bad key power? Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted January 23 Author Report Share Posted January 23 5 hours ago, Jesse C. said: Ok, second issue, when I crank the engine over, the CA box lights up, but the ECU goes dark, until I release the key, then it lights up again. Bad key power? I don't remember if the ECU stays lit up. Does it have spark and injector pulse. Quote Link to comment
Jesse C. Posted January 23 Report Share Posted January 23 14 hours ago, Icehouse said: I don't remember if the ECU stays lit up. Does it have spark and injector pulse. I will check this weekend. I had to rewire the distributors plug, hopefully I did not cross it up. I will pull the dist. and turn it by hand with the key on, that should make things click. But first I will check for spark. Thanks Ice Quote Link to comment
Jesse C. Posted February 4 Report Share Posted February 4 (edited) On 1/22/2025 at 4:30 PM, Icehouse said: I don't remember if the ECU stays lit up. Does it have spark and injector pulse. Pulse, but no spark. How warm should the external ignition module get? Edited February 4 by Jesse C. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted February 4 Author Report Share Posted February 4 2 hours ago, Jesse C. said: Pulse, but no spark. How warm should the external ignition module get? What motor is it? Also the year of the motor? have you checked the ecu codes? Quote Link to comment
Jesse C. Posted February 4 Report Share Posted February 4 9 hours ago, Icehouse said: What motor is it? Also the year of the motor? have you checked the ecu codes? It's the VG with a 1987 300ZX harness, and no, I have not tried codes. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted February 4 Author Report Share Posted February 4 6 hours ago, Jesse C. said: It's the VG with a 1987 300ZX harness, and no, I have not tried codes. check the codes for sure. Do you have an extra dizzy you could test with? Some of those old ECU's used 1/2 the optical sensor for spark and the other for injectors. Could also be missing a ground on the ignitor wiring or anywhere for that matter. I would see what the codes say. Quote Link to comment
Jesse C. Posted Saturday at 05:50 PM Report Share Posted Saturday at 05:50 PM (edited) On 2/4/2025 at 12:19 PM, Icehouse said: check the codes for sure. Do you have an extra dizzy you could test with? Some of those old ECU's used 1/2 the optical sensor for spark and the other for injectors. Could also be missing a ground on the ignitor wiring or anywhere for that matter. I would see what the codes say. Just checked the codes, and the most obvious is 21 Ignition Signal. Now to find out what part is causing this. I tried the ignition module upgrade, switch the wires are per the instructions, but no spark, put the old one back in and it just gets pretty warm. The other codes are 22 Fuel Pump, and that is most likely because I disconnected the pump so it would not keep dumping in fuel while it cranked it. And 41 Temp Sensor. I assume this must be for the factory sensor or gauge that is no longer there. Thoughts? Edited Saturday at 05:51 PM by Jesse C. Quote Link to comment
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