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How to wire a KA, CA, SR, and VG into anything


Icehouse

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On 1/2/2023 at 10:26 PM, ]2eDeYe said:

Black with yellow goes to the cold start regulator. It is on the intake. 

You likely need the crank sensor hooked up to run. 

TY for the response. The dizzy was off by 2 teeth. Runs great now. I will move the Black/Yellow just to be safe. Didn't need a crank sensor. I guess it's just for ODB2/diagnostic purposes. Have fun out there in WA. I was in Olympia for 15yrs. I miss everything except the rain.  

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Unfortunately it looks like I am going to be abandoning and selling my project 620. I've listed it and had a ton of interest but everyone big concern is hearing the 95 240sx KA24DE I have run. I pulled it out of a running car and put it in the 620 a couple years back but never wired it up. Going back through this thread and a couple other super helpful threads I'm confident in where I am out. But there are two wires I want to double check. 

 

They're the "Brown Power from Ignition" and "Blue/White IACV Solenoid for Idle Air" I pulled them along with all the other wires from the F plug as suggested in another thread but I'm not sure which relay I should be hooking them up too. I am not using the CANAM box only because I'm not keeping it, if I was I know that would be the way to go but I think I would still get stuck here... Any help is appreciated. Thank you. 

 

 

This is the F3 pinout I used to gather my wires. 

95s14.jpg

 

 

 

And this is the wiring diagram I used to hook up my relays.

s13%20wiring%20diagram%20pic%20file.jpg

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IACV Solenoid for idle air is the AC idle increase solenoid. Not needed if you are not running AC
Power from ignition should be be just what it says, ignition on 12v+.  

The canam box just replicates the 3 relay configuration of the stock wiring setup. It saves some wiring time and makes for a clean install.


Not sure about using that SR to 510 diagram for a KA into a 620. 

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Hi I was just wondering what everyone is doing for speedometer. From what I understand on a ka24de it leaves the speed sensor from the trans that produces voltage like a generator, then goes to the gauge cluster which understands that voltage output to make the speedo work. I am not using a stock gauze cluster. I am using an aem cd5 and was wondering if there is a module that I can install inline to understand the voltage that the speed sensor is making? Thanks for any help. 

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5 hours ago, Jesse C. said:

Ok, second issue, when I crank the engine over, the CA box lights up, but the ECU goes dark, until I release the key, then it lights up again. 

 

Bad key power? 

 

 

I don't remember if the ECU stays lit up.  Does it have spark and injector pulse.  

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14 hours ago, Icehouse said:

 

 

I don't remember if the ECU stays lit up.  Does it have spark and injector pulse.  

 

I will check this weekend. I had to rewire the distributors plug, hopefully I did not cross it up. I will pull the dist. and turn it by hand with the key on, that should make things click. But first I will check for spark. 

 

Thanks Ice

 

 

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On 1/22/2025 at 4:30 PM, Icehouse said:

 

 

I don't remember if the ECU stays lit up.  Does it have spark and injector pulse.  

 

Pulse, but no spark. How warm should the external ignition module get? 

Edited by Jesse C.
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2 hours ago, Jesse C. said:

 

Pulse, but no spark. How warm should the external ignition module get? 

 

What motor is it?  Also the year of the motor?  have you checked the ecu codes? 

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6 hours ago, Jesse C. said:

 

It's the VG with a 1987 300ZX harness, and no, I have not tried codes. 

 

check the codes for sure.  Do you have an extra dizzy you could test with?  Some of those old ECU's used 1/2 the optical sensor for spark and the other for injectors.  Could also be missing a ground on the ignitor wiring or anywhere for that matter.  I would see what the codes say.  

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On 2/4/2025 at 12:19 PM, Icehouse said:

 

check the codes for sure.  Do you have an extra dizzy you could test with?  Some of those old ECU's used 1/2 the optical sensor for spark and the other for injectors.  Could also be missing a ground on the ignitor wiring or anywhere for that matter.  I would see what the codes say.  

 

Just checked the codes, and the most obvious is 21 Ignition Signal. Now to find out what part is causing this. I tried the ignition module upgrade, switch the wires are per the instructions, but no spark, put the old one back in and it just gets pretty warm. 

The other codes are 22 Fuel Pump, and that is most likely because I disconnected the pump so it would not keep dumping in fuel while it cranked it. 

And 41 Temp Sensor. I assume this must be for the factory sensor or gauge that is no longer there. 

 

Thoughts? 

 

 

Edited by Jesse C.
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