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How to wire a KA, CA, SR, and VG into anything


Icehouse

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A relay will only buzz due to the coil charging and discharging very rapidly. This will only happen under one of three conditions....

- voltage supplying the relay drop under 10V

- poor connection ( positive, or ground side ) of relay.

- damaged relay; possibly coil.

Don't forget, a poor connection also means dirty, loose, or corroded connection.

I'm leanin toward bad connection then. I took the relay wiring, with the ecu and hooked it up to the battery and it clicked normally.

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A relay will only buzz due to the coil charging and discharging very rapidly. This will only happen under one of three conditions....

 

- voltage supplying the relay drop under 10V

 

- poor connection ( positive, or ground side ) of relay.

 

- damaged relay; possibly coil.

 

Don't forget, a poor connection also means dirty, loose, or corroded connection.

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Wire colors match, don't they? And if not.........

Google this

"510 wiring diagram"

Easy, no?

I did it both ways, exactly as the diagram, then I rewired it like mine (I have an extra relay n the trunk an my fuel pump runs off straight battery) still buzzed.

 

No matter though, badime rewired it according to the diagram and got it going.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys long time reader 1st time writer! Total noob but just wondering if anyone could help me? I'm swapping a ka24e into my 84 720 and I'm no good with wiring and was wondering if anyone could tell me what is needed and How to do it... I will be using and 89-90 240 intake and engine harness..

Any help is appreciated

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  • 4 weeks later...

Glad I read this last page.  I was wondering why one of my relays was buzzing, and I was checking over diagrams over and over to make sure I didn't wire something up in correctly.

 

My ECU power relay is going nuts.  I've confirmed that the relay is good.  Next up is to tighten up all the wiring to and from that relay.  

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Ooook. Cannot figure out the ECU relay. I've tightened up all the wires, swapped relays, created new ground locations... but the relay powering up the ECU keeps buzzing. To confirm:

 

Constant power to Pin 86 and 30. Pin 85 connects to Red/Black, which has to ground out at the ECU, because the 12v coming in at pin 86 has to go somewhere.

 

So... When I send 85 straight to ground, the relay kicks over just fine. When I wire it back up to the Red/Black, it buzzes.

 

Ideas?

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Does anybody know off the top of their head which(if any) of these wires are not necessary to a CA swap into an older Datsun?

ECU_CA18DET.jpg

 

I ask because I'm dealing with a harness that has been cut off at the ECU plug, and the less wires I have to track down and splice back together with the other harness segments, the better. Thanks!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got my relays fixed. It was a wiring error in my part. I managed to get my engine to kick over, too. However, I can only get it to fire up by pouring gasoline into the throttle.

 

I'm not getting 12v at the injectors. Which wire at the can-am relay box provides the injector power?

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Ok. I've confirmed 12v to the red that came from the big grey plug. I did cut it from the plug and wired it directly to a switch that supplied the 12v.

 

I think I'll need to trace the wire up the harness to see where it splits off to the injectors. I've found some "modifications" that the previous owner did to the harness that I've had to fix... and this may be another one.

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That's pretty common.  These motors get swap around like crazy.  Kids nowadays aren't afraid to just start hacking away at the wiring.  I'm sure it's something simple like that.  

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Question: On an inductive style factory tach(power wire, ground wire, and then a wire that runs through an inductive pickup), in a non-distributor setup(coil on plug), would it work if I cut into one of the coil wires, redirecting it through the inductive tach wire, and then back to the other end of the coil wire? Thank you.

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