Icehouse Posted January 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 good to hear...so what are the advantage of running the PCB over just doing the wiring to the relays? more plug and play, cleaner? Or is this some fail safes put in? are you guys still running power to the cowls all the time like the old diagram? that killed my batt, and my AEM EMS did NOT like it Yeah cleaner and easier installation, not to mention there are LED's so it's easier to trouble shoot. Yes the injectors are still on all the time. That is the exact way that the factory ECU is wired. I know Megasquirt also doesn't like constant power to the injectors. AEM EMS must run similar injector drivers. I've always wired the factory EFI that way and have never had a problem. Quote Link to comment
CCAT Racing Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 I just want to Praise Icehouse's wiring diagrams! I just wired up a KA24DE with the diagram and it fired right up and idles great! Thanks icehouse! :cool: The day I went to wire up, you put up your new wiring diagrams, and it actually made me see clearer what to do! Although it confused me too with the "multiple" ECU pins on a couple of the circuits. It led me to fully open the harness and trace. Mine spliced together "in" the harness so only one wire was needed instead of 2. Only problem is my 510 fuse box only has 2 wires coming out... A White and a Blue, no White/Black on/start wire??? I got the car with the harness removed, but I thought the 3 wires were part of the fuse box? Anyways, minor stuff, Happy it runs! Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted February 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 Wups..... Was trying to edit.... Quote Link to comment
Uber Deaf One Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 So CCAT Racing and I are having idle issues now... we're swapping a '93 (S13) KA24DE into a 510. We just reviewed your wiring diagram tonight and noticed 2 of your diagrams are conflicting. In the S13 KA24DE diagram the brown wire goes to the IACV which is what we're having issues with. However in your S13 SR20DET CA/KA/SR diagram it says the brown wire goes to the O2 sensor. Right now we have the brown wire going to the O2 sensor when I think it should be going to the IACV.... we're gonna give that a try tomorrow. Just wanted to let you know ;) Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 Jeff, what's the pricing and availability on your CAN/AM box? Quote Link to comment
inline4 Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 So CCAT Racing and I are having idle issues now... we're swapping a '93 (S13) KA24DE into a 510. We just reviewed your wiring diagram tonight and noticed 2 of your diagrams are conflicting. In the S13 KA24DE diagram the brown wire goes to the IACV which is what we're having issues with. However in your S13 SR20DET CA/KA/SR diagram it says the brown wire goes to the O2 sensor. Right now we have the brown wire going to the O2 sensor when I think it should be going to the IACV.... we're gonna give that a try tomorrow. Just wanted to let you know ;) you're welcome to check mine out. the brown one iirc goes to the o2 sensor. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted February 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 So CCAT Racing and I are having idle issues now... we're swapping a '93 (S13) KA24DE into a 510. We just reviewed your wiring diagram tonight and noticed 2 of your diagrams are conflicting. In the S13 KA24DE diagram the brown wire goes to the IACV which is what we're having issues with. However in your S13 SR20DET CA/KA/SR diagram it says the brown wire goes to the O2 sensor. Right now we have the brown wire going to the O2 sensor when I think it should be going to the IACV.... we're gonna give that a try tomorrow. Just wanted to let you know ;) I went and relooked at the diagrams and they are all technically right. The brown wire splits off the quite a few different items in the diagrams I have. The later KA's with heated O2's do use the brown wire to also heat the O2 as well. Did you strip the wiring down and see where everything went? So what is your KA doing? Steve: They are 150 bucks shipped and I've got a few built but need to test them then PM a shit ton of people back and give them my PayPal thingy Quote Link to comment
CCAT Racing Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 I went and relooked at the diagrams and they are all technically right. The brown wire splits off the quite a few different items in the diagrams I have. The later KA's with heated O2's do use the brown wire to also heat the O2 as well. Did you strip the wiring down and see where everything went? So what is your KA doing? Well, it starts up fine, idles up when cold just right, but once warm, the idle is low and the large vacuum hose that goes to the intake tube and feeds the air regulator is a straight vacuum leak when engine is running. I plug the hose, and put a matchbook in the throttle stop to hold idle up a tad and it idles fine. I tested all 3 electrical components of the idle air circuit and they all test good. I am thinking the ECU is bad and not sending the IAC ground signal... Any ideas??? I took the IAC assembly off and cleaned it, etc... I don't get any clicking at all from the valves/solenoids when engine is running or key on engine off. No codes stored in ECU... I get a 55 code all good! :) This morning I am going to check wire continuity from sensors to ECU to verify integrity. Then I am going to start pinpoint testing the IAC circuit per the manual. Can I get away with deleting the IAC all together and setting idle manually? Will it idle different with different conditions, temps, etc...? Any help will be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks! Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted February 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 Wait so you didn't run the 5/8" IACV hose into the intake? It needs to have metered air. Sounds like if you hook that up it will be fine. Post a pic of the engine bay if you could. Quote Link to comment
CCAT Racing Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 Wait so you didn't run the 5/8" IACV hose into the intake? It needs to have metered air. Sounds like if you hook that up it will be fine. Post a pic of the engine bay if you could. Yes, I originally ran it into the intake right before the throttle body. It would not idle(except cold start idle) so I took it out and plugged it due to excessive vacuum leak out that 5/8" hose. Once plugged, idle is low, but stable. I bump the idle screw a tad on the throttle body and it idles fine. But, when that 5/8" hose is un capped, or plugged into metered air it acts like(is) a HUGE vacuum leak! The idle adjustment screw does nothing since there is sooo much air entering that 5/8" hose... I bought the car half completed and the engine was rebuilt, so the intake was off. Possible something is not installed correctly. I just got back from the auto parts store with an adapter to rig up a muffler so I can run it longer. Going to do some voltage checks and go from there... I will post up pics and a vid of what it is doing later on... I appreciate the help! Quote Link to comment
CCAT Racing Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 Alright, I decided to re-connect the hose to intake and it seems to be idling fine now.:D I don't know what happened, but there must have been a leak at the intake to 5/8" hose, or maybe messing with the circuits made it start working. I think something was not working, because the first time I ran it and no idle, I could hear a vacuum leak center of the intake manifold where the IAC vents, now I don't hear a leak there so the air regulator must be working now. Sweet! Now I can set timing, idle, and continue on! Thanks icehouse! I think I may have fixed the issue, but was forgetting that hose had to be metered air!:rolleyes: Seem to be having trouble getting the ECU into test mode II to check O2 readings? Can someone walk me through the procedure??? Also, is it possible to hook up the "consult" ECU tester to this setup? Do I need to wire directly to the ECU? It seems like there are a few features that would be helpful and needed that the consult offers. I was looking at the pigtail consult on ebay that plugs into a laptop. Any ideas? Thanks again icehouse! You steered me in the right direction again...:cool: Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted February 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 Well I've always cut off all the OBD2 stuff off :) Then again every S14 setup I've worked on it's on a SUPER low budget, no one wants to spend the cash to have me figure that stuff out. I've also never checked the O2 sensors. If the car starts getting bad gas milage we usually do a tune up with a new O2, and clean the MAF. Quote Link to comment
CCAT Racing Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 Well I've always cut off all the OBD2 stuff off :) Then again every S14 setup I've worked on it's on a SUPER low budget, no one wants to spend the cash to have me figure that stuff out. I've also never checked the O2 sensors. If the car starts getting bad gas milage we usually do a tune up with a new O2, and clean the MAF. It has a brand new O2 sensor, but I just want to check its function since it seems a bit rich. I am going to figure out how to wire in a consult into the ECU. I picked up a consult connector a the wrecking yard today. But running good now!:D Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 OBD2 would be a very nice feature. Even just as an interface with the ECU. Over in VW land you can completely edit the computer line by line if you want through the OBD2 port. Quote Link to comment
sanitys Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 i do believe that the brown wire on the s13 89-90 harness goes to the iacv, air regulator and 1 other sensor, however i dont have any of that stuff hooked up. The brown wire doesnt goto the O2, atleast with the 2 harnesses Ive messed with. In any case i never hooked up the brown wire when i was using the stock ecu, but then again i lived in hawaii where it was warm all the time, so cold starts werent really an issue. I plan on picking up an aftermarket intake so I'm just gonna do my tune without those sensors. Quote Link to comment
dash Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 hay what about the vg30det Quote Link to comment
510rob Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 hay what about the vg30det Do you have one mounted that is waiting to be hooked up, or is this a purely speculative question? Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 Do you have one mounted that is waiting to be hooked up, or is this a purely speculative question? He has a 620, and he has a VG30DE in a box. He should just wait til after he gets everything mounted. Wiring will only take a little bit. Quote Link to comment
voltron_boi Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 Will this work when wiring it up to a rb25det? Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted February 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 Will this work when wiring it up to a rb25det? Yeah if your interested I could try and find the diagram and do a drawing. Quote Link to comment
voltron_boi Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 Yeah if your interested I could try and find the diagram and do a drawing. I just pm you. So looking forward For a drawing from you. Thanks Quote Link to comment
mattminerDOTcom Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 so, this is a little differnt but i have a vg30det swapped into my 91 240sx. Im currently using the stock ecu and harness from the z32 rigged to work with the 240sx chassis harness. I came across this setup and am wondering if it would be possible to use this to clean things up. thanks in advance! M@ Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 . That's just a teaser of an engine bay pic .......... right??? ........... .. :lol: ........ . we need moar pics!!!! Quote Link to comment
mattminerDOTcom Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 lol what do you want to see? I used the zed engine, trans, ecu, brakes. fabricated custom engine mounts and trans mount, custom driveshaft, custom headers. had to relocate the oil filter and use a j30 front sump oiling setup. had to relocate the alternator. overall it wasnt too bad. I can post more, but I do need help on cleaning up the wiring! Quote Link to comment
djlotus Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 lol what do you want to see? I used the zed engine, trans, ecu, brakes. fabricated custom engine mounts and trans mount, custom driveshaft, custom headers. had to relocate the oil filter and use a j30 front sump oiling setup. had to relocate the alternator. overall it wasnt too bad. I can post more, but I do need help on cleaning up the wiring! I for one would like to see more pics as well. And Icehouse, that box you made looks pretty damn slick. Quote Link to comment
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