How to wire a KA, CA, SR, and VG into anything

[Icehouse]

Yep that's how the alternator goes.  I think the medium white wire can also be constant power but would work fine switched to I'm sure.  

 

 

yeah MAF should be fine way down there.  

[GT2]

Yep that's how the alternator goes.  I think the medium white wire can also be constant power but would work fine switched to I'm sure.  

 

 

yeah MAF should be fine way down there.  

Cool!

Is the brown/white light wire a ground? : 12+ to light, light to brown/ white wire?

  

This is all the wire I stripped out of the harness, wish I could have pulled more!

[earlyvws]

Hello Everyone!

 

Ive been gone for a bit, but working hard. I'm trying to get the 521 running and having some problems getting the motor running.

 

S13 KA24DE with manual ecu ::::::::::::: msd 2225 fuel pump 

 

I started following an old diagram that didn't work. After reading everything I could find online I'm more confused now then when I started.

 

 

So far I have tested the following:

 

Dizzy has spark

Injectors have power confirmed with NOID

TPS has normal functions based on testing I found online

MaFF has power to it

Fuel rail is getting gas

 

I have just found the updated diagram on this forum and wired canam box accordingly, but fuel pump relay not working properly. I have a few questions about this new diagram.

 

 

1. What is going on int the areas I circled in red? It looks like a wire going from 86 to 30 to me, but not sure how to hook that up.

2. 46 & 109 look like they go directly to 30 but is also listed as going to ecu bup (currently I have these 2 only going to ecu bup).

3. What is the ground at the bottom of the diagram? 

4. What happened to the O2 sensor wire that was originally in the first diagram?

 

Here is how my canam box is wired. Don't look at all my red wires!!! They are labeled!

 

 

Anyone see anything wrong with my wiring?

 

Also is a fuel pressure regulator required?

[2wheel-lee]

It's hard to give you direction without a lot of explanation and drawings. Sorry. 

I also don't have the ECU pin numbers handy, so I can't help you there. 

 

I haven't yet wired up my SR, but I'm familiar with these general circuits as they are generally the same across most import EFI engines. I've never had a CanAm box in my hands, so I don't know what goes to what without seeing it. I like the concept and cleanliness of using the box, but I don't know if I'll use one of them or just wire up my own relays (at a fraction of the cost). 

 

So there's what I don't know.  

 

First, the loops you see going to the relay coil simply supply power to that side of the coil. The relay is energized from a negative trigger from the ECU and then 12V passes through the contacts of the relay. 

 

Though I have a lot of experience reading circuit diagrams, these diagrams can be very confusing. Quite frankly, I think they're written very poorly. 

 

Something else to consider is that you're getting confused especially by looking at both diagrams. They use different methodologies of running the ignition circuits. While I won't say one is better than the other, just know they are different and therefor don't try to get a little bit of knowledge from each and make sense of it - you'll be even more confused. Pick one of them and stick to it and discard the other.  

 

One example is that the the first diagram uses the ignition switch and ECU (for two of them) to trigger all the relays, whereas the second diagram uses the ignition switch to trigger one relay while using ECU negative signals to trigger the other two. I might have missed a few things while scrolling up and down, so excuse me if I mixed up the top and bottom diagram descriptions. 

 

I believe they're saying the O2 sensors is labeled as "SENSORS" that is part of the ECCS1 circuit. 

[]2eDeYe]

I just went through a rewire on my red truck so this is all pretty fresh for me. 
 

Answers I know are below in red. I am ignoring the first wiring diagram to minimize confusion. :)

 

 

I have just found the updated diagram on this forum and wired canam box accordingly, but fuel pump relay not working properly. I have a few questions about this new diagram.

 

 

1. What is going on int the areas I circled in red? It looks like a wire going from 86 to 30 to me, but not sure how to hook that up.
You are running constant 12v+ to both 86 & 30.
 

2. 46 & 109 look like they go directly to 30 but is also listed as going to ecu bup (currently I have these 2 only going to ecu bup).

This is main power to the ECU, just needs a fuse, no relay

 

3. What is the ground at the bottom of the diagram? 

From the ECU harness, the black wire goes to chassis or block ground. Both if you are feeling saucy and like to insure a good ground. 
Without this hooked up you will not trigger the ECCS relay, which in turn triggers the fuel pump relay. 

 

4. What happened to the O2 sensor wire that was originally in the first diagram?
It is part of the wiring harness, I assume that it is staying wired up in this configuration and you do nothing but plug it in. 

 

Here is how my canam box is wired. Don't look at all my red wires!!! They are labeled!

 

 

Anyone see anything wrong with my wiring?

I used regular relays, but the can/am is pretty straight forward. Labels are super helpful her as you know. :)

 

 

Also is a fuel pressure regulator required?

No, the fuel rail has a pressure regulator, the ECU controls the fuel pump power and will turn it off once pressure is reached. 

 

 

Hope that helps. 

[kelowg]

Sure this is somewhere,but for ka24e(1989 240sx). in diag shows 38&47& sensors, some how many wires go there and from what? A link to answer is fine. Im likely just over thinking it.

[MantisX620]

I have the same question here. Is the solid line through relay 3 a mistake?

 

Thanks

MantisX

 

So looking at the wiring diagram for the third relay and specifically ECCS LSS or ECU pin 4, does anyone know if this actually needs a load on this pin for the ECU to work correctly? Is there any reason the ECCS LSS line can't be left to float and the third relay connected to (38, 47 and sensors e.g., ECCS1) be ganged to be activated by ECU PIN 104 (e.g., pin 4 left empty and pin 104 grounds/activates relay 1 and 3)? I want to use the ECU lines as mere sensor lines to pull up a controlled voltage fed through a solid state optoisolater but I'm not sure if the ECU will freak if pin 4 floats or it doesn't see the coil load on some of the pins (I can work around this I just need to know as it will increase my circuit count and complexity). I'm assuming the solid line through the coil of the third relay is just a typo.

 

 

 

[MantisX620]

I think I figured it out? If 86 is power for the relay coil and 85 is ground for the coil, then there cant be a hot connection straight through them.

[thisismatt]

I think I figured it out? If 86 is power for the relay coil and 85 is ground for the coil, then there cant be a hot connection straight through them.

You got it

[MantisX620]

Ok, Ive located all of the wires in the diagram except ground. Am I looking for a black wire coming directly off of the ECU connector, or is it a black wire in the same set as the other 8 wires?

 

Thanks

MantisX

[banzai510(hainz)]

86/85 is the coil part which moves the contacks to short out 87 and 30 .

 

so you can use 86/85 as the switchable part. To turn ON/OFF.this is the low current side trigger

so this mean you can switch the power or switch the ground to trip this relay

[MantisX620]

Thanks Hainz. Sorry, I meant the lone black ground wire thats above the starter solenoid wire in the diagram. Is this meaning ground in general, or is there a specific ground wire out of the harness that I need to ground?

 

Thanks

MantisX

[Docsis510]

Not sure if this has been covered but i need a bit of help.i wired my 68 510 with a sohc ka according to the diagram. Everything is good. Motor starts everytime. The issue is when i turn the motor off the fuel pump keeps turning on and off. The only way i can get it to stop is to disconnect the fuse.. any help would be appreciated. Thanks

[18seven]

I'm having a really difficult time understanding the diagrams.  I have an s14 ka24de that I'm trying to swap into a 1984 corolla. First of all, I don't have an equivalent to the black/white striped coil wire in this car.  Could this just be wired to a switch on the dash controlling 12v supply?

 

Secondly, why would the ECU need to be connected to the starter solenoid?  Is there some reason the ecu needs to interact with the starter solenoid?  Couldn't I just as easily send 12v through a button when I want to start the car?

 

Sorry if these questions have already been posed.  I'm super new to wiring and this is my first ever motor swap.  thanks for any help you guys can offer.

 

 

[datzenmike]

 

 

Well the top relay is grounded and turned on by the FPLS

The middle Black/White stripe one should come on when the ignition is turned on*

The bottom relay is grounded by the ECU BUP

 

* Not seeing where the Black/Blue stripe start signal wire is that normally goes to the coil in the 510 or how thew ECU knows when the start.

 

ECU needs to know if starting to set the mixture also needs for keeping the electric fuel pump on.

 

 

 

[Bohicas2u]

I am not seeing 

My original post..apologies if I am.here twice.  Looking for guidance / understanding of the 95 ka.  I do have some specific questions. Thanks. 

[datzenmike]

When was it posted???

[bottomwatcher]

I have the 95 ka24e successfully swapped with the icehouse can am box and drive it daily in my 720. Ask all you want

[montanosvg30]

Hello Everyone,

 

Id like to share pictures of my installation in a 1973 DATSUN 620.

 

 

 

http://

 

http://

[]2eDeYe]

Well done, looks nice and tidy. 

[eon]

Hey guys i really tried to get this done without posting so i read all 41 pages but i need some help. Ok so this is an S14 Zenki sr20det mounted in my 620 also if it makes any difference it has an Apexi Power fc for an S15 using an Apexi zenki to s15 harness conversion adapter and the engine harness looks pretty hacked up (previous owner). Ive been using the below 2 diagrams for reference 

 

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-03UEAmi113g/UvB2xFHHojI/AAAAAAAAEoU/F_GdK1ODzkw/w1007-h611-no/SR20DET+S14+ZENKI.png

 

and 

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9F33_M_GgENNFJHdVd6VWlLUmM/view?ths=true

 

ive been able to find and i think connect all the connections with a corresponding pin number as well as the key/ignition and fuel pump but i'm missing the following:

 

IAVC - is that pin#4? 

Coil packs - am i suppose to tap all 4 coils (1,2,11,12)

Injectors - am i suppose to tap all 4 injectors (101,103,110,112)

VTC,O2,ECT - i dont see any brown is it 29?

 

what i did notice was the black/red cable (pin 45/Run 2) is present at both the coil and injector harness, if that means anything...

 

Also when i turn the key, only the first light (Run) turns on, if i short ECCS LSS to ground the other two light up as does my power fc commander.

 

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated, thanks! Also heres a couple pics for reference if it helps 

 

 

 

 

[eon]

On 7/31/2011 at 1:01 AM, johnbureezu said:

Here's a video demonstrating what I'm dealing with. I figured out the flashing/intermittent issue already though. Still perplexed why the ECCS won't ground itself/switch on. It will only work when I manually ground it.

 

 

@johnbureezu and @Icehouse were either of you ever able to figure out what happened here? Im having the exact same issue and symptoms. Also (i dont know if its related or not ) i am not getting a spark and have checked everything, i am getting 12v down to the coils and when i manually rotate the CAS i get injector clicks but no sparks. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[SONOFK-E]

Great post helps on understanding process 

[stu_spencer]

Here is how I wired my S15 SR20DE into my 72 510

 

 

More info is over on my build page at the 510Realm: http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=32564&p=286951#p286951

 

 

[grannyknot]

1973 510 with a KA24DE

 

I have the Can-am box all wired up, not all the colours match because I had to extend a few of the wires that weren't long enough to reach but everything is wired properly - pretty sure.

I haven't been able to start the engine yet but the rest of the electrical system is all working perfectly.

The problem at the moment is when I turn the power off at the key the fuel pump keeps running and the 3 lights on the Can-am box stay lit for 10-15 mins.

Not sure where to start on how to solve this one?

Thanks