How to wire a KA, CA, SR, and VG into anything

[simonh]

Have checked and double checked my wires (so has someone with a bit more of a clue) and the car still wont start. It's getting power to the distributor but there are no signals coming back from it to the ecu. Is this likely to be a problem with the wiring or the distributor itself? The engine ran fine before it was pulled from the 200SX, it's been around four years but it's been dry stored. Distributor contacts and rotor arm have been cleaned up. Have run an extra earth to the head just incase. The standard blue relay (ECU relay) in the wiring when all the wires are traced out doesn't seem to be needed as one of the new relays is doing the same job.

 

Any ideas?

[hosestop@msn.com]

There is a loop of wire near firewall on coil pack harness for timeing put timeing light on loop wire and see if flashing when cranking as it should if not maybe missing signal from ecu ,I believe should have power present on bW wire and need to make a jumper wire for black as ground is actual message from ecu do not give it a full neg. with power probe just touch a neg wire to ground.

[simonh]

Thanks hosestop@msn.com. Found the problem finally and it was simple, and my fault. I'd cut a wire that branched into another feed further up the loom. Reconnected it and engine fired first time.

[hosestop@msn.com]

Did you find that timeing loop thing for troubleshooting ? also make sure you use that firewall ground to body from that harness seen coil harness melt without it. Glad I could help you !

[simonh]

Didn't find it. All my wires were originally wrapped together at the bulkhead. I don't think I have coil packs, just a distributor which seems to run off eight wires in the main engine loom. It's an SR20DE, non turbo from around 1993/4.

[simonh]

Thanks very much for the guide and the help available on here. If anyone is starting this thread from the end then some very basic advice would be not to over think it, you don't actually need to know why you're doing everything. Reading through the thread can be confusing at first. The most important thing in hindsight is not to cut any wires unless they're at a plug. If joining anywhere else in the loom just splice into the wire as it could be connected to something else further up.

 

Does anyone know if the fan is controlled by the ecu in the SR20DE (S14)? I found some information saying that the relay was triggered by pin 9 on the ECU but the pinout diagram that seems right for my car has pin 9 as being the AC cutout relay. There is no mention of an engine fan. The car did have an electric fan as well as the viscous one.

[Lockleaf]

That electric fan is the AC fan. So yes it should be properly marked as AC. And yes that pin could act to turn on that fan. But in no way is it tied to engine temperature.

 

The engine cooling fan is the viscous one. The condenser (AC) fan is for increasing AC efficiency and adding additional cooling capability to the radiator because of the extra load and heat.

[Icehouse]

I tried the fan relay output people talked about.  The one that controls the AC fans.   I feel it lets the motor get way to hot, although on the car I tested it on there was no temp gauge.  Let us know if you find out what temperature it turns on at.  

[Draker]

I tried the fan relay output people talked about.  The one that controls the AC fans.   I feel it lets the motor get way to hot, although on the car I tested it on there was no temp gauge.  Let us know if you find out what temperature it turns on at.  

 

Some cars (z32) will trigger the AC fan as a helper fan if the engine temp gets too hot. so that's likely why you would be experiencing that. I think they are programmed to kick on late as a helper if the mechanical fan is not handling the heat load.

[SR720]

Hey guys, i am doing my first ECU wire up. Does anyone know if the S14 Pin out has any relation to the S15? I have what i was told was an S15 SR20 imported from Japan, however i cant seem to get any of the ECU pin outs for ADM or JDM S15 to line up with what i have. I am also trying to work of the Body harness plug rather than the ECU plug. Can anybody help with hints and tips? 

[simonh]

Thanks for clearing that up. I guess it's only the fwd models that would have an engine fan controled by the ecu then.

 

I have no space for the viscous fan and wont be running the air conditioning so will just run a separate fan controller so the electric fan control is directly related to the engine temperature.

[Icehouse]

Hey guys, i am doing my first ECU wire up. Does anyone know if the S14 Pin out has any relation to the S15? I have what i was told was an S15 SR20 imported from Japan, however i cant seem to get any of the ECU pin outs for ADM or JDM S15 to line up with what i have. I am also trying to work of the Body harness plug rather than the ECU plug. Can anybody help with hints and tips? 

 

 

I have the FSM for the S15 I can email it to you.  Yeah its really similar to the S14.  

[simonh]

Best tip is probably to unwrap the harness between the ecu and the plug you're working from. It makes it really simple to follow the wires as once you get started you can soon get jumbled up. Eight wires doesn't sound like much but there are so many other ones too, often with similar or the same colours, some joining into other things too. If you can see the physical wires it's so much simpler and will save you loads of time.

[Shaker]

Just wanted to say Thanks for the Fuse Box. It made wiring up the Sr into my 720 much easier. :)

[simonh]

That's the Lada now done 1200 miles with the SR20DE and no issues, other than it seems to be pretty thirsty. Probably because I like the three stage induction noise as you accelerate! Thanks again for the help.

[GT2]

Hi guys, its been a while but I'm getting close to firing up my mule motor vg30e in my tube frame race car.

I've decided not to use a can am box.

Can anyone help me with wiring using just switches and a fuse block?

 

Looking at the "can am" vg wiring diagram:

 

The first 2 lines, I wont be using the FPLSS & FP1 because I'm running the fuel pump stand alone.

 

The 3rd line [ ground ] , dosent apply in my application?

 

The 4th line [ 35 sensor power ], Do I just hook this to my ignition switch, 12v+ ?

 

The 5th line [6 ECCS LSS ], Do I just hook this to my ignition switch,12v+ ?

 

The 6th line [35,27 sensors ECCS 1], Not sure what to do with these wires.

 

The 7th line [114 ECU BUP ], Do I just hook this to my ignition switch 12v+ ?

 

The last two lines are self explanatory.

 

Thanks for your help, Tim

[Icehouse]

Hi guys, its been a while but I'm getting close to firing up my mule motor vg30e in my tube frame race car.

I've decided not to use a can am box.

Can anyone help me with wiring using just switches and a fuse block?

 

Looking at the "can am" vg wiring diagram:

 

The first 2 lines, I wont be using the FPLSS & FP1 because I'm running the fuel pump stand alone.

 

The 3rd line [ ground ] , dosent apply in my application?

 

The 4th line [ 35 sensor power ], Do I just hook this to my ignition switch, 12v+ ?

 

The 5th line [6 ECCS LSS ], Do I just hook this to my ignition switch,12v+ ?

 

The 6th line [35,27 sensors ECCS 1], Not sure what to do with these wires.

 

The 7th line [114 ECU BUP ], Do I just hook this to my ignition switch 12v+ ?

 

The last two lines are self explanatory.

 

Thanks for your help, Tim

 

 

 

Not sure which VG you have but if you use the drawing below and go from the wiring color column and follow that to the left that is how you wire it without a CAN/AM box.   I made it that way because I'm a cheap bastard as well so I didn't want to exclude anyone because they don't want to but the can/am box.  I know projects gobble up the coin so I find myself building things instead of buying them.  

 

Hope that helps.  Let me know if it doesn't answer all your questions.  

 

[GT2]

Thanks for the response Ice.

So basically all the wires in the diagram, [ other than the ground and #9 ] to to 12v positive?

[Icehouse]

Thanks for the response Ice.

So basically all the wires in the diagram, [ other than the ground and #9 ] to to 12v positive?

 

 

Or number 6.   

 

make sure number 114 red is constant power.  memory is important.  

[GT2]

thanks for the tip on the memory, I dident know that.

 #6? on the diag. it looks like it goes to positive?

Sorry for the ignorance, I'm not much of an electrician.

[ by the way I'm not using relays.]

[Icehouse]

number 6 turns on the ECCS relay.  It's a ground switch.  You won't need to use that wire since you are just running everything off switched power on the ignition.  

[GT2]

number 6 turns on the ECCS relay.  It's a ground switch.  You won't need to use that wire since you are just running everything off switched power on the ignition.  

Thank you!

[GT2]

Hi guys, its been a while but I'm getting close to firing up my mule motor vg30e in my tube frame race car.

I've decided not to use a can am box.

Can anyone help me with wiring using just switches and a fuse block?

 

Looking at the "can am" vg wiring diagram:

 

The first 2 lines, I wont be using the FPLSS & FP1 because I'm running the fuel pump stand alone.

 

The 3rd line [ ground ] , dosent apply in my application?

 

The 4th line [ 35 sensor power ], Do I just hook this to my ignition switch, 12v+ ?

 

The 5th line [6 ECCS LSS ], Do I just hook this to my ignition switch,12v+ ?

 

The 6th line [35,27 sensors ECCS 1], Not sure what to do with these wires.

 

The 7th line [114 ECU BUP ], Do I just hook this to my ignition switch 12v+ ?

 

The last two lines are self explanatory.

 

Thanks for your help, Tim

 

She lives!!

Fired it up this afternoon and other then having to turn up the manual idle speed screw [ I removed all the iac,etc, etc.], it seems to run like a champ! 

playing with the photo loader. look at the rats nest of wire!

[Icehouse]

I want to drive it!!!!  

 

Also a longer pipe inbetween the MAF and throttle body will help it run correctly.  Make it 12" minimum for the test results.  

[GT2]

I want to drive it!!!!  

 

Also a longer pipe inbetween the MAF and throttle body will help it run correctly.  Make it 12" minimum for the test results.  

My final intake pipe crosses over the front of the engine and down into the passenger side front bumper, so I can move the maf quite a ways away if that would be better.

 

 Any idea how to wire up the alternator?

It has the large white wire that obviously goes to the battery.

Then has a plug with medium white [ switched power for the field?], and a small brown/white wire [ warning light?].

[ 87 300zx ]