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Icehouse

How to wire a KA, CA, SR, and VG into anything

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Damn that is one nice drawing!!! It puts mine to shame thats for sure :D The only thing I think should be changed is the optional kill switch. Where you have it puts it on the high amperage side of the circuit. If it was only cutting power to pin 86 it would be better because if someone used a cheapy low amperage switch it wouldn't burnout. A good quality switch to handle that kinda power is hard to find these days. Well from any local store that is... Radio Shack is a joke if you ask me.

 

I should really go through and find the exact colors for all the engines and make sure they are right. I should also add the s14 and 15 models... Its just time..

 

O and the amperages for the fuses I just kinda made up :D After talking to Rob it may be better to run smaller ones.... I'm no electrical engineer.. Maybe I can get him to post here.

 

1 last thing, did you post your car in the project section? I want to see this beast! :D

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Guest DatsuNoob

 

I should really go through and find the exact colors for all the engines and make sure they are right. I should also add the s14 and 15 models... Its just time..

:D

 

Please do. Post that shit! :D, I'm lost without the assistance of experienced help. Plus I always make it a point to let other guys fuck up first before trying it myself :lol:

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Please do. Post that shit! :D, I'm lost without the assistance of experienced help. Plus I always make it a point to let other guys fuck up first before trying it myself :lol:

 

and this is why i have all the ka threads subscribed to:lol:

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question: what does ECCS stand for, my first guess was Electronic Climate Control System, but i think im wrong..

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That diagram is very nice. Great job on it.

 

Now if only someone did one like that for the VG30 swap.

 

 

Does anyone know of one for the VG30 engine??

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question: what does ECCS stand for, my first guess was Electronic Climate Control System, but i think im wrong..

 

electronic concentrated control system.

 

Not exactly sure the difference in that and the ECU but I assume IMO it's the same thing.

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Damn that is one nice drawing!!! It puts mine to shame thats for sure :D The only thing I think should be changed is the optional kill switch. Where you have it puts it on the high amperage side of the circuit. If it was only cutting power to pin 86 it would be better because if someone used a cheapy low amperage switch it wouldn't burnout. A good quality switch to handle that kinda power is hard to find these days. Well from any local store that is... Radio Shack is a joke if you ask me.

 

I should really go through and find the exact colors for all the engines and make sure they are right. I should also add the s14 and 15 models... Its just time..

 

O and the amperages for the fuses I just kinda made up :D After talking to Rob it may be better to run smaller ones.... I'm no electrical engineer.. Maybe I can get him to post here.

 

1 last thing, did you post your car in the project section? I want to see this beast! :D

 

 

I can change anything you think I should change. What would be the recommended fuse size? 10A?

 

When you mean the high amp side of the current for the kill switch, should it go on the other side of the relay? Cutting off the current the relay sends to the harness?

 

I can post the car when I get some pics done. I have pictures of the L28 coming out but the car is in a utter mess right now since I've taken it completely apart.

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Actually Icehouse, looking at the switches I am using, they are from Radio Shack! lol But I ordered them online. They are 12V 20A switches, shouldn't that be enough? I get what your saying now about just taken out the relays 86 switch current which is a small low amp current and just stopping the relay from turning on.

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they are from Radio Shack!

 

just stopping the relay from turning on.

 

radio crap :fu:

 

 

you got it! preventing the relay from 'turning on' only requires a small (AKA easily hidden) switch.

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post here

 

Rob thats not what I meant :D

 

 

That diagram is very nice. Great job on it.

 

Now if only someone did one like that for the VG30 swap.

 

 

Does anyone know of one for the VG30 engine??

 

 

I've wired a VG. I'm about to help Carter with his VG wiring, this time I'm going to take way better notes so I can do a drawing, hopefully someone on here will redo it ;)

 

 

Actually Icehouse, looking at the switches I am using, they are from Radio Shack! lol But I ordered them online. They are 12V 20A switches, shouldn't that be enough? I get what your saying now about just taken out the relays 86 switch current which is a small low amp current and just stopping the relay from turning on.

 

Yeah thats what I mean, no point cutting the main power to the relay, if they relay isn't on the car won't run :D

 

radio crap :fu:

 

 

you got it! preventing the relay from 'turning on' only requires a small (AKA easily hidden) switch.

 

The hard part is deciding were to put the switch...

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Here's a really quick primer on fuses and relays.

 

I cut-'n-paste'd what I wrote on the 510realm about relays

 

The number codes on the relays are DIN standards. I'm sure they are also ISO, JIS, SAE, and others, but whatever...

 

30 = Input from + battery terminal, direct (through a fuse please!)

85 = Ground side of activation coil

86 = Positive side of activation coil

87 = Normally Open contact (the standard output)

87a = Normally Closed contact (rarely used in a car)

 

Some OEM and aftermarket relays have dual 87 contacts, but most aftermarket have a single 87 contact and a single 87a contact. Make sure you know which one you've got.

 

Pay attention to the correct polarity of the activation coil, as some relays have an internal flyback diode across the activation coil, so hooking up the coil backwards will blow up the diode.

 

Also, I HATE it when people use 1/4" faston crimp connectors to wire up a relay. Sockets for standard automotive relays are not expensive (about $2.50 each with terminals), and they help to make the installation look a lot more neat and professional. Socketed connectors makes replacing a relay in the future a lot easier too, for the next guy. An open-barrel crimp tool costs about $30, so I don't want to hear any complaining about tool costs either.

 

Fuses. Why use fuses at all? They are only there in case of an emergency and a short circuit. i.e., when something is completely fucked up, wouldn't you rather have a fuse burn, rather than your whole car burning to the ground? So, how do you pick the size of a fuse? Ummm, you start with the anticipated load on that leg of the circuit, or even the combined load on that leg of the circuit. Let's say you have a 2-wire idle air valve on it's own circuit. How much current does it normally draw? I don't have a clue, so why not get out an ammeter, and hook up the valve to a battery and measure it! Ah hah, so let's say it takes 2 amps. We should be safe with a fuse over 2 amps then, right? How about 3 amps? How about 4 amps? How about 5 amps? ...as you get further away from the true load current, the fuse gets slightly larger in cross section, giving a reduction in voltage drop across the fuse, but conversely, the danger to melting the car gets higher as well. Where is the trade-off? ...it boils down to a simple judgement call. I err on the low side, and if it blows, I bump up the fuse size an amp or two.

 

Example case. I wired a RB25DET COP ignition system, running pseudo-wasted spark (three sets of paired coils, running twice as often as necessary). How much current does an ignition coil pull? about 7 amps for around 3 milliseconds. Well, then the average current draw is a function of RPM. uh oh, more variables... not to worry. I used a 5 amp fuse, for all six of the coils. I also put a reasonable sized capacitor in the feed leg to help deal with the transient current demands of the coils. Anyway, one day thre we were, driving around making adjustments to ECU parameters, and Ray stomped the gas as usual; the car just got up on the turbo, and blahhh, it died and fell flat on it's face. I told him to pull over and we'd figure it out. It was a good thing the car died right then, because a cop car passed us oming from the other direction; he would have been just around the next corner when we would have been "on boost" - close call! So, Ray pulls over and looks at me as if he's got no faith in me at this point. I check the fuses and find that 5 amp fuse protecting the ignition coils has blown. That would explain the "dead" engine. I installed a 7.5 amp fuse instead of a fresh 5 amp fuse, and we keep going. Apparently, the 5 amp fuse was just a bit too small, and since changing to the 7.5 amp fuse, the car has run for over a year, including it's trip down to Canby. Is the 7.5 amp fuse adequate? ...well, it seems to work better than the 5 amp fuse did! Would a 10 amp unit work better? Well, I suppose if the 7.5 amp fuse blows, he could try a 10 amp, but I think the 7.5 amp unit works just fine, all things considered.

 

I can't tell people how to pick a fuse. I can stress that, at least, put a fuse in there somewhere! Having seen some bad wiring in my time, I can excuse honest mistakes, but to me, the absence of a fuse altogether is an inexcusable mistake. Even if it's an over-sized fuse, at least there is some form of protection present for the circuits, and therefore the whole car. I helped someone rewire their car a few months ago - some previous owner of that car had elected to remove the main fusible link from the harness = huh?!?

 

Look at the fuse box in a BMW - a car that puts design over cost concerns. Those things have a fuse on e-v-e-r-y-t-h-i-n-g! What does that tell you? Look at a 1968 510 - the whole car only had 6 fuses (not including the fusible link). Cheap ass Datsun - hah! Honestly, the stock electrical system in a 510 is great for what the car was designed to do. When you start adding complicated electrical systems to a 510, I would recommend that you tie into the system at the starter's lug, run a heft main fuse (I myself use good old fusible link wire, available at most auto parts stores in 1' lengths), run that to a fuse sub-panel to some relays and to the rest of your gear. It works well. It keeps the new wiring separated from the old wiring. Good times.

 

what a fuckin' wind-bag!

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Is the 7.5 amp fuse adequate? ...well, it seems to work better than the 5 amp fuse did! Would a 10 amp unit work better? Well, I suppose if the 7.5 amp fuse blows, he could try a 10 amp, but I think the 7.5 amp unit works just fine, all things considered.

 

I can't tell people how to pick a fuse.!

:lol:

sorry, but Calvin & Hobbes came to mind immediately upon reading this part...

Calvin would ask his dad things such as how engineers figured out how much weight a bridge could hold...

answer: they drove bigger and bigger trucks across it until the bridge collapsed, then they weighed the truck and rebuilt the bridge.

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:lol:

sorry, but Calvin & Hobbes came to mind immediately upon reading this part...

Calvin would ask his dad things such as how engineers figured out how much weight a bridge could hold...

answer: they drove bigger and bigger trucks across it until the bridge collapsed, then they weighed the truck and rebuilt the bridge.

 

That is the best and most pragmatic way of testing bridges, if you have spare bridges and trucks available.

 

For the fuse game, considering the costs involved, I will continue to recommend the same method, but now I will refer to it as "the Calvin and Hobbes method".

 

:D

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So your saying I need relay holders? I just figured it was job stability, every time more than one wire falls out I can charge them to fix there electrical system :D

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I've wired a VG. I'm about to help Carter with his VG wiring, this time I'm going to take way better notes so I can do a drawing, hopefully someone on here will redo it ;)

 

 

Yes. Please take good notes. I am in the process of doing my VG swap too and the wiring is the only part that troubles me.

 

It would be so great if you could do a drawing. I plan to use the wiring harness from the 1987 200sx that I pulled the motor from.

 

Which one have you done? Which one is carter using? Is there any major difference between the 300zx and the 200sx harness?

 

Thanks,

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Yes. Please take good notes. I am in the process of doing my VG swap too and the wiring is the only part that troubles me.

 

It would be so great if you could do a drawing. I plan to use the wiring harness from the 1987 200sx that I pulled the motor from.

 

Which one have you done? Which one is carter using? Is there any major difference between the 300zx and the 200sx harness?

 

Thanks,

 

 

Did the 300z one but with the s12 mani. Carter is doing the s12 from what he has told me. There both really easy IMO, not much different than the s13 harnesses. I've been bugging him to get started, hopefully soon.

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the more i sit here and read these posts, the more i want my ka now so i can start on the truck

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the more i sit here and read these posts, the more i want my ka now so i can start on the truck

 

Just be like me, I call it the 3 year plan, I get parts and don't do anything with them for around 3 years, sometimes even longer. I had my KA before I even had the 620. The trick is to be on the look out for one know, if a good deal comes up grab it, if not keep waiting :D

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i might end up getting a junk yard block just to use for the mock up when i go to cut the motor mounts on the frame, plus I dont like waiting around, it took me 10 years to find this truck

Edited by Bugeye
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S13 KA24DE wiring

 

These are the connectors that you need.

 

IMG_0072.jpg

 

IMG_0074.jpg

 

IMG_0076.jpg

 

swapchartframe1.jpg

 

I have more diagrams for S14 KA24DE, S13 SR20DET, S14 SR20DET kouki and zenki, LS1, VK56DE. I'll post them eventually.

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Have you ever followed the black with red back to the ECU? :D

 

The brown wire is the O2

 

The constant power on the red also powers the injectors, even with the key off.

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Did the 300z one but with the s12 mani. Carter is doing the s12 from what he has told me. There both really easy IMO, not much different than the s13 harnesses. I've been bugging him to get started, hopefully soon.

 

 

Thanks. I will start bugging carter too. Glad to hear that he will be doing the S12. That will make it easier for me to copy too. :cool:

 

I will send him an email today.

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