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How to wire a KA, CA, SR, and VG into anything


Icehouse

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where do the wires from the SR harness go to on the relay lugs

 

You mean the three square relay boxes on the CAN/AM board? That's the beauty of the CAN/AM, you don't need to worry about connecting wires directly to the relays, instead the CAN/AM board has those relays connected internally to those blue wire connectors, that's where the eight harness wires go, to the blue wire connectors.

 

2011-01-22_20-27-08_566.jpg

 

 

Good question, all four are marked "MAIN +12V INPUT". I figured you can connect the main 12V supply to any of the four connections along the left side of the board (in other words, you don't have to connect to all four). But I could be wrong:

2011-01-22_20-27-45_128.jpg

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All four of the +12V IN connections are electrically tied together. I provided four possible mounting points because I wasn't sure where or how people would be mounting their wiring, approach angles, clearance, etc... I figured it would be easier to add a few extra holes when I was drawing the circuit board.

 

Sorry for the confusion and lack of clarity.

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Updated the "generic" diagram:

23092.jpg

How to connect to anything (not just a 510)

 

As icehouse mentioned, the IGN/key wire can be tapped at many places in the original vehicle wiring harness:

* At ignition switch under-dash

* At old coil wire under-hood

* Or anywhere else this wire goes which is convenient

 

Ditto for START wire:

* At ignition switch under-dash

* At starter solenoid S terminal (small wire)

* Or anywhere else this wire goes which is convenient

 

Both of these wires get their power from the Ignition switch through the original Datsun fuse box, so no need for an extra fuse(?).

 

 

For the 50-70A fuse you can just use take out the 70A fuse that comes with (or in) the Engine harness and use that. If you don't have one, the three 15A fuses add up to 45A, so just need something close to 45A to protect the wiring before it gets to the CAN/AM box. That way if there is a short (maybe from a frayed wire, or in case of a crash the wire gets damaged), instead of the wire burning and potentially causing a fire, instead the fuse blows. Or instead of a fuse, you could use a Fusible Link, 45A @ 12V calls for a 12-gauge main feed from battery, and to protect that use a 16-gauge Fusible Link (FUL 1mm²) right near the battery cable. $2 at Amazon.com or use one from late-70s Datsun.

 

Also I noticed on the diagrams, the blue breakout connectors are reversed from what the photo shows.

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Good to know about the 12v in, handy!!

Yes I realize you don't connect to the relays directly, that's what the blue terminals are for :P

 

Yes the blue lugs are backwards but are numbered in order correctly.

I did that so the Sr harness on right half align with the can am box, to not redraw the entire thing.

 

So to aid in the completion, what's LSS? And the other Lugs.

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vdubjim

 

LSS is pins 85/86 of the blk box relay. usually tells the relay to switch on

So 3 inputs will be used. a low 12volts. Low meaning a low current source 12volt.

 

 

on the Fuel pump side AS SHOWN ABOVE the drwg shows 2 outputs .This part im confused to me the blk/pink fuel pump relay wire should go to the FP LSS terminal to turn the FP relay ON. PLEASE CORRET ME IF IM WRONG GGzilla? drwg needs to be upgraded again. think it was transcribed wrong and was forgotton orginally from the blkbox type earlier drawings

 

 

Vdubjim

FP output terminals 1 2 3 4 are shorted together

ECCS outputterminal 1 2 3 shorted together

RUN outputterminals 1 2 3 shorted together

 

shorted together means you just have multiple output terminals

Example on FP you can plug the fuel pump wire in 1 2 3 or 4 dont matter as they are all shorted together. Just up to you what number you want.

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Ok so i see the image is updated again.

 

So FP i agree with black/pink to LSS.

 

I believe the ECCS is incorrect. ECU BUP = back up power? so thats wrong. And what on the harness=LSS is it red/black? and what is 'shorted' to 1,2,or 3?

 

The RUN relay, all wires basically are twisted together and stuffed into 1,2,and 3 ?

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Well thanks to a local guy that helped me with the wireing, my car now runs, BUT i have a starting issue. It takes forever for it to start up, it just cranks and cranks, i have to keep trying and trying for it to start. Now once its started, its not a problem, it will start right up again, but if it sits for a few hours, it takes forever again to start.

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vdubjim

 

That above drawing is correct just the nomenclauture is in the WRONG spot

 

where it says BUP PWR should be on the bottom of the ECCS relay .right now it shows it on the top.So either one draws aline going up to the BUP or just swap the nomenclature.

 

just swap it or use the old drawing nomenclature and use the labols on the Can am box.Simple

 

BUP PWR is already hooked up to the battery side 12volts via the box. It doesnt even use the ECCS relay.

 

vdubjim you asked?

The RUN relay, all wires basically are twisted together and stuffed into 1,2,and 3 ?

Depends what model Yes you can twist them together or use the 3 avalible terminals. I would but the big wire in singlally and if smaller wires tie them together then put them in one terminal.

really the FP relay could have went one less terminal to 3 and put a extra on the ECCS to make it 4 terminals. Just depends on what ECU type you running and what s your really need.

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Ok so i see the image is updated again.

 

So FP i agree with black/pink to LSS.

 

I believe the ECCS is incorrect. ECU BUP = back up power? so thats wrong. And what on the harness=LSS is it red/black? and what is 'shorted' to 1,2,or 3?

 

The RUN relay, all wires basically are twisted together and stuffed into 1,2,and 3 ?

 

 

 

 

What engine are you working on?

 

 

 

 

Well thanks to a local guy that helped me with the wireing, my car now runs, BUT i have a starting issue. It takes forever for it to start up, it just cranks and cranks, i have to keep trying and trying for it to start. Now once its started, its not a problem, it will start right up again, but if it sits for a few hours, it takes forever again to start.

 

 

Did you hook up the orange wire to the starter solenoid?

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Okay, so in the interest of just getting my car running. I have the canam box but my factory engine harness has been taken apart and now I can’t find a diagram that matches up. Is there any way to just use my ka harness and the canam box? My factory harness isn’t to terrible it’s just untapped…

 

 

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Okay, so in the interest of just getting my car running. I have the canam box but my factory engine harness has been taken apart and now I can’t find a diagram that matches up. Is there any way to just use my ka harness and the canam box? My factory harness isn’t to terrible it’s just untapped…

Help us help you - please provide us with more information as to what you have, what you are attempting to achieve, etc...

 

A) I assume you are putting a KA into a 510 - is this correct?

 

B) What vehicle did you source the engine from? S13? S14? D21?

 

C) When you say the engine harness has been taken apart, do you mean the stock 510 harness, or a KA engine harness?

 

D) Did you take the KA harness from the same vehicle that you took the motor from?

 

E) What ECU do you have?

 

F) If you could post a picture of what you do have, that might help a lot.

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sorry guy/gals

 

 

A) I assume you are putting a KA into a 510 - is this correct? yes a ka24de into my 510B) What vehicle did you source the engine from? S13? S14? D21? the engine is from a 1993 s13

 

C) When you say the engine harness has been taken apart, do you mean the stock 510 harness, or a KA engine harness? my friend attempted the wiring and got as far as taking apart/cutting my factory 510 harness now i cant find a diagram that matches my harness

 

D) Did you take the KA harness from the same vehicle that you took the motor from? yes the harness and the motor are from the same ka24de

 

E) What ECU do you have? i have a manual ecu it has a big green 27 on it. also a small red sticker that says B47 G10

 

F) If you could post a picture of what you do have, that might help a lot. i will have to look up how to post pics again.thank you in advance for your help it has been a pain trying to figure out this harness. at this point my 510 is no longer my primary ride so i just want to get it running. 0

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i told him not to mess it up so he waited till i left then started his " better way" of wiring lol. so if i use the blk/wht wire from the coil to the can/am i no longer need the factory fuse block thats under the hood, for anything except lights wiper ect. then i would be able to use a painless wiring kit or something similar for the rest of the car? i would normally leave the rest of the wiring alone but its preaty bad and melted together in a few places.

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I never seen anybody actaully finnish a Painless kit and got everything working and still been on Ratsun to shows us its been done. They usually are gone or get another 510 to fuck up.Most 510 people cant figure out the 510 switchable ground light circut.

What about the volt reg wireing ect.... you better just fix the harness you have first.

But I havent wired a car and dont run a CAN am box either.

But Im not going to be like one guy on here who ripped apart his Nice wagon only to TRY sell it later cause it was too much to get the wiring hooked up right.

 

why would you not use the factory fuseblock? You can relocate it but why not use it

 

Your org post was to just get it runnning. Not get a Painless to rewire the whole car.

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i only mentioned something like the painless because i have not been able to find a wiring diagram that actually matched my harness. when i purchased the car it had an L20 in it. is there a couple part of the harness i should take pictures of to post or just take a picture of every connector? i have been making a lot of progress on the car and this factory harness is the only thing slowing me up.

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