B210 Goodness: Finally Picked up a Car(Dos?)

[Kirden]

Yea, just a painful decision cause I actually like the dyna lites and have 5 total. For now I'm just going to pick up some 165/55s or 165/60s and run them until I find a decent deal on 15s that I actually like. If these were 7-8" wide wheels I'd run the 185/60s and be perfectly happy, but to widen these would be around $1200 :sick:

[josh_t]

So yesterday I checked my bank account and noticed that kirk racing had finally placed the charge that I ordered about a month ago. Well, it was unexpected, but hey, I still wanted the headers. Low and behold, I got a rather large package in the mail today:

 

Really happy with these headers esp for the price. Sadly I'll still have to get them coated, but it's one more part for the stash atm.

 

What price? Was it the $350 you talked about above? I've not been following too closely.

[charolastra]

Nice headers! Where do you buy it?

[Kirden]

Those headers are $250 plus shipping from Kirk Racing

[josh_t]

PM me contact info ASAP. and can i give them primary and secondary lengths and diameters or is this a one size fits all deal?

[Kirden]

This is a one size deal. It is a race header with 1.5" dia primaries.

 

http://www.kirkracing.com/

 

This is the same design header that Datsunfreak is using on his 1200. It just doesn't have the fancy "Nismo" name.

[josh_t]

what diameter secondary and approximately what length primary? anything close to 3 feet?

[Kirden]

2.5" secondary. I honestly didn't ask about the length of the primaries because this one is so much better quality than the other's I've seen stateside, but from the far side of the straightest primary to the top of the collector is about 2ft. If you include the collector it's 2.5ft and the few bends add perobably 2-4 inches, so about 2ft 8 inches is my best guess. If you give Mark a call at Kirk I'm sure he could be more specific.

 

I will say the only thing that I didn't like about the design was that they wouldn't add on a v-band, but that's easy enough. Other than that it's not bad, but order early cause it took almost a month and a half to get mine.

[josh_t]

ok. 2.5" secondary is a bit too big, but if i can get it in 2 or 2.25 it would be nice. i'll have to ask. a header is not the first on my list of things to do. trans rebuild and finishing this tbi setup are. the pcm is my big hold up on the tbi setup. idk which one i'm gonna go with.

[Kirden]

Well, it's been well over a year since I bought this car and had it delivered. Sadly all I have done is make sure it's not seized, removed the radiator for cleaning, removed the trashed carb, and removed and cleaned the old gas/rust from the fuel tank. I have a new battery for it from my old 620, a spare weber, and four days off each week, so it's time to put in some work and see if I can get it running before the move next year.

 

I've posted a few threads to get a feel for what all needs to be done so that I can come up with some kind of plan. The goal for now is to check spark, fuel, and compression, and if it's good, get this beast started using the spare weber. In order to do that I need to change the oil, figure out the best way to prime the oil pump, lube or at least oil the cam and head, and flush out the water passages the best I can, and try to chase down/plug any vacuum leaks.

 

I would also like to clean my fuse block and any connections that are required for starting the vehicle (need help identifying these). This car has sat for at least 6 years now, most likely longer. If I can get it started it will be coming with me on the move to Nashville in August of 2015 so the plan is as follows:

 

August - November 2014

Remove all rot from around the car and replace with fresh metal patches (5-6 spots)

Replace all rubber bushings and any damaged suspenson components.

Replace all regular maintenance brake parts.

Flush or replace all brake, clutch, and fuel hard lines.

Replace all rubber hoses.

 

This gives me four months to get this B210 to a decent platform which will determine wether or not I should just sell it or keep going as planned. While I love this car and I want to learn, I can't keep throwing money into parts that aren't making it on to the car because of my laziness. This plan is more of an ultimatum for myself, so lets see if it works.

 

Tomorrow is my last day of work, so hopefully Mon-Thurs there will be actual updates.

[Kirden]

Adding to this, how would one lube the cam in an A-series engine? L-series are easier for obvious reasons, but is there a way to access the cam without effecting my timing or removing the head in an A-series?

[B210GX]

Get you a hole saw and....

 

LOL other than pouring oil in the valve cover ,No

[Kirden]

Well that isn't what I was hoping for. Guess I'll just put the new oil in without the valve cover on so I can make sure everything gets some oil on it at least, then turn the crank a bit. Hopefully that will be enough insurance.

[datsunfreak]

Guess I'll just put the new oil in without the valve cover on so I can make sure everything gets some oil on it at least

 

This is how I do it.   :thumbup:

 

Just be careful because fresh oil doesn't really drain down very fast. Go slow, or it'll get messy.   B)

[floyd17]

Here is some info I found on the head. Love the 1200 site :)

 

H89

Oval-port Closed-Chamber was fitted to A14-powered B310 Coupe and Sedan in the JDM market (but not to Van (wagon). C120 came with A15 engine and H89 head. Closed-chamber is a non-emissions controlled head (no EGR). It is sometimes called "High Compression", but the compression is about the same as the open chamber (H72) head -- the compression is controlled by the piston dish, not the head.

 

• Closed Chamber
• Oval Port
• Intake Water Ports
• New intake bolt pattern

If you Ever wanna sell or trade off this head or complete engine let me know!!

[Kirden]

Haha, will do. I've been slightly stumped this week, but hopefully we can get it started Thursday. 

[Kirden]

That moment when you realize you could have had a running CA18DET swap after all of the money in parts for a non-running A15...

 

A friend of mine just came across a CA18 full swap (minus intercooler) for $900. He's probably going to get it for his project, but knowing that it cost me more than that for the intake, headers, and R1s, not to mention replacing the busted accessories and parts to get the A15 running annoys the crap out of me. Hopefully I'll feel better about it once the damn thing cranks.

[datsunfreak]

A friend of mine just came across a CA18 full swap (minus intercooler) for $900. He's probably going to get it for his project

 

You do understand that he'll spend triple that by the time he's done, right? When swapping in a modern engine, the engine is often at best only half the total cost. 

 

Not saying your path was a bargain, but don't think he's only spending $900 by the time he's done...

 

My current A15 swap has easily cost me more than the last KA24E swap I did. But that's not why I did it...   ^_^

[Kirden]

I know, I've tried to explain that to others planning swaps, but it is still frustrating. He still has to get the whole radiator, intercooler, wiring, crossmember, trans cross member, ect done and it won't be as cool as my planned build, but it will be faster and maybe a little more flashy. I'm just mad cause his will kill hondas and mine will have trouble beating a civic with a bad cylinder...

 

I keep trying to remind myself that R1s + Kirk headers + Eaton M90 (maybe M62) = awesome with plenty of happy. I've just got to buckle down and make it happen.

 

EDIT: this equation could also = asploded transmission, which would = no happy and target practice.

[datsunfreak]

and it won't be as cool as my planned build, but it will be faster and maybe a little more flashy. I'm just mad cause his will kill hondas and mine will have trouble beating a civic with a bad cylinder...

 

Drag racing is boring anyway...   :rofl:

 

 

It will still be fun to drive with a "wimpy" A15, probably even more fun to drive. There's a limit to how much power you can actually use in a Datsun...

[ericsb210]

Kirden don't give up. I am stoked about your build. I am planning on doing the same R1 & header system with the a14 in my F10 coupe. I am looking forward to seeing the look of the finished build. Of course how it runs is important too, I guess :rofl:.

[Kirden]

Well this is absolute bullshit. I just got home and someone has stolen the radiator I had for the B210. Fuckin bullshit man. It was the stock radiator, not even worth anything.

[datsunfreak]

 It was the stock radiator, not even worth anything.

 

Sadly, it's worth enough cash at the scrapyard to get a hit of meth...   :blush:

[Kirden]

Ticks me off the more I think about it. It was an A/C radiator too :(

[Kirden]

Well, I've got a few feelers out on radiators from scrap yards that say they ship nation wide. Still waiting on responses (car-part.com says they have the radiator).

 

I'm really tempted to pull the engine and rebuild it. I thought about just re-ringing it but those jobs never seem to last long and if I'm tearing it that far down I may as well go .5mm over on the pistons. With datsunfreak's help, I've been able to determine which pistons I need (offset deep dish A15 pistons). I think the determining factor will be how bad the wiring turns out to be. If the wiring is shot but the engine has decent compression I will worry about rewiring rather than a rebuild.

 

Pay day is the 15th so I'll be checking the wires this week. No money = check cheap stuff first!

 

Lastly, I have an update on the move next year. The company has decided that the new building will be in Cookeville, TN. Looks like I'll be a golden eagle, but at least the school there offers mechanical engineering :ninja: