demo243 Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 So I am working on getting ready for an autocross in about a week and a half and I realized I had play in 3 of my 4 wheels... I think I have the front ones figured out and fixed - just needed to pull the hubs, rebuild them, torque the hub nuts correct... stuck on the rears I have the drum and shoes removed- and if I grab the lugs I can wiggle the plate slightly from 12-6- it apears to be wiggling through the hub housing - which leads me to believe it is bad bearings.... :( - My haynes manual doenst make it seem nearly as bad as what I have read here - but they also talk about a self locking nut and 58ft lbs torque.... and what I have read talks about a peaned end and 250 ft lbs torque Am I just mixing things up? does this sound like a wheel bearing issue? - it definitely isnt a suspension issue... as I can see that it moves on either side of the hub- thanks in advance for the help! trying to get her completely together and ready for the autocross in just over a week- Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Was just pointed to this Walk through by one of the CTZCC Guys Datsun Z Garage http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html Looks to be a pretty complete walkthrough- more work then I want to do right now, but gotta do it if I want to race! Napa Can get me the Wheel bearings next day and the seal in a few- The big question is now on the nut- Do I need the same nut that needs to be peened or is there a self locking one that will work - I have been told this one works on a 240 - 43262-W1200 - anyone know if it will work on a 510? CTZCC Post- http://forums.ctzcc.com/viewtopic.php?t=7307&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 the 280zx nut will work it self locks Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 the proper nuts are avail from Nissan. i just got 2 myself. i can post the part# if needed i prefer the peened nuts as its a PITA if they become loose. say if "someone" didn't torque them properly... especially if you're autocrossing Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 The Haynes manual is misleading or incorrect (been a while since I looked at it). I think it mixes up the torques of the half shaft bolts with the stub axle nut. The stub axle nut is ON THERE. You have to cut away at the nut to clear the peened over portions, and then you still risk galling the threads. You'll really wish you had a true 500+ ft-lb impact wrench to get the nuts off, and it works well if you have an old rim you can lay on the ground and stand on while the stub axle is sticking up from it. The bearings are a common model - you don't have to buy them at an auto parts store, and you might as well get a good brand. You can also get them double sealed instead of the open races of the stock bearings. I think -RS is the suffix for the double sealed version. Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 Thanks for the replies guys- Got in there tonight, had to dremel some of the half shaft connecting bolts to get them off but got it apart and started dremeling away at the peened portion of the nut - wish i had some impact tools to do it... going to order the bearings from NAPA tomorrow $18 each - i think i need to order the nuts from nissan though - self locking sound nicer then peened ... but is it more of a pain to get off down the road? probably going to have to rent a slide hammer- bearing puller- bearing press from Autozone this weekend... hoping I can use the press at work to press the bearing onto the spindle Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 but is it more of a pain to get off down the road? wouldn't worry about that. mine probably had 200,000+ mi & lots of track time on em and were in good shape when i replaced em. only did because i replaced everything. only heard of 1 or 2 bearing failures. i got the sealed bearings too. Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 If you wouldnt mind posting a part number that would be great- I was going to do both sides just to do it- but the driver side is fine and appears that it has been done already- stub axles is ground down a bit from where a prior owner ground it down - although does seem to spin exceptionally freely - maybe they used really nice bearings on that side Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 If you wouldnt mind posting a part number that would be great- 43262-21000 i got mine thru Lynchburg (VA) Nissan Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 Thanks Hang_510 I just ordered my bearings from NAPA - $18 a piece and they can get me them same day- ordered before 11 and I will have them by 2:30 - 280 axle nuts will work on a 510 so I ordered a pair of those and a pair of the grease seals through Nissan- although decided i am only going to replace the passenger side bearing since the driver side is fine and once I got the half shaft off I could see it had been changed before... somebody ground down on the stub axle Also went over to Sears to pick up a 27mm socket... Ended up with a set of impact sockets... of course I dont have a gun yet... so breaker bar it will be- need to go to home depot and get two big ass steel bars- one for the breaker bar and one to brace the studs/hub- going to thread the lugs back on there to protect the threads Hoping not to need a hammer - going to try the freeze/heat method to get the bearing on the spindle and rent a bearing press to get the other one in the trailing arm- if I run into trouble with the spindle bearing there is a press at work that I can probably get one of the guys to do it for me Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 When you say spindle are you talking about, the front hubs or rear? For both I've used a piece of all-thread with large, thick washers and nuts (all can be found at a decent hardware store). I cut a straight notch through the outer race of one of the old bearings, dump out the guts, and use the notched race to press the new bearings in, so that all the pressure is applied to the new bearing on the outer race and the bearing doesn't get damaged. Be sure to follow the torque specs/technique for the front hubs. Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 I meant axle not spindle- My plan was to use the thread all method to get the bearing into the trailing arm- getting the bearing onto the axle stub is the tougher one- but we have a press at work so I think i am going to try and get one of our shop guys to do that for me- also managed to lose the fricken washer that goes just inside the axle nut... do ooh... its a big fricken washer but no where to be found.... Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 Ordered a new washer and new half shaft flange bolts direct through nissan today- bearings and the bolts and washer in on Wed- axle lock nuts in tomorrow. Wed night hopefully putting it all back together- The question now is which order/how to press the bearings in- i.e. one in the trailing arm and one on the stub axle? both in the trailing arm? trying to leave the trailing arm on the car if possible- anyone have thoughts? seems like the one in the arm and one on the stub axle is the way to go Quote Link to comment
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